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Injector Nozzles

Update on my starting issues- The hard starting isn't the pump... I put another one on. It aint injectors carboned from oil. Sadly, it appears to be broken rings from the thousands of starts with either this winter.
Retirement seems in order... 266,6xx miles. I have more blowby than exhaust. Literally, you can follow me down the road from the trail of blowby.
 
thanks Dave, I figured some of that junk was in the holes also. I was kinda confused when I saw it as it would make more sense to just put them in a plastic cap.

Cummins I am sorry to hear that but it is kinda funny, thats how my friends truck was but not as bad when he had one broken ring. I did need an injector body but I already ordered one off of ebay ha
 
Finally got some genuine Bosch 311 nozzles. A few of them wanted to leak ,one was exceptionally bad. I did get them all to seal eventually,after trying every trick I know,except relapping,which doesn't work. I set the pop psi to 2400. Monarch nozzles are better quality,too bad they don't make a 304 and 311. I'm running the Monarchs currently at 3200 psi.
 
I just put my Bosch Marie nozzles in, popping at 2650-2700 psi. I swear the turbo whistles more now maybe because the engine tone is different. Anyhow can someone share their secrets on how to fix the leaky injector at the body? I have tried one awhile ago and didn't have luck (with my only instructions being to take it apart clean the machine seal and put it back together at 50 ft. lbs.

I also have another problem even worse, I have a really bad injector tap. It sounds like a washer in my engine its so loud. I don't know what to do with it because it was torqued to 50 ft lbs also.
 
I installed the injectors today. It started up and ran fine,and all of sudden started knocking so bad I thought the motor was junk. After awhile it went away. The only thing I can think of,is one of the pintles stuck,or I dropped something in the motor. The only improvement over the Monarch nozzles,is the harmonics at 1300 rpm's,power seems about the same. Did you resurface the spacer,and top injector half ? I use real fine sand paper,on glass or very flat steel.
 
I was reading up about rebuilding injectors last night and that is the only thing I forgot to do so I'll be fixing that. How long did it take the tap to go away? It sure is damn loud but only when the engine is revved not when held at a constant temp. I also know which injector it is. I was thinking it could be the seal at the bottom of the injector letting combustion pressure in because they were not replaced and I have no idea where to find new ones.
 
It might have lasted a minute. I always reuse the little washer at the bottom,but they must be flipped the right way.
 
I was flipped the right way, It has since gone away. When I drove it this morning after I brought the boost past 5 psi it hasn't come back since.
 
I retested the easy side today. Two out of four were sticking slightly. They didn't leak,just popped weird. I took one apart and cleaned and relapped everything including the nozzle top. It pops better now. I tried very hard to remove all the coating,but maybe some was still in. I'm getting some serious light load knocking sounds,under boost only. No doubt another issue, but want to double check the injectors.
 
I lapped two of mine yesterday (the leaky ones on the easy side) didn't do the nozzle top but was thinking about it. After installing them one still leaked so I pulled it, re-lapped it and put blue locktite on the threads. Then driving in town probably 10 min into the trip one started tapping like a SOB so right before I pulled over I tried the "boost" fix, this time it was 10psi that did the trick.
Im not sure if the nozzles can handle the higher pressure, I don't understand why they keep getting stuck
 
Lower psi can help stop leaks sometimes. I have mine at 2400-2450,and expect to find one that's leaking. I might add some Stanadyne lube to the fuel also.
 
Do you think the lube will help them from getting stuck until they break in? Also I lap mine like this guy did on his VW, he used oil, 1000 grit then 2000 grit on glass, what do you think about using lapping compound between the upper body and middle washer? You'd just have to be careful and clean it well afterwards.
I think I'll just stick with locktite though
 
You should lap the top of the nozzle. If its leaking at the threads it probably will leak out the bottom also.
 
I didn't think of that, that is even worse. What do you think about the lapping compound and doing it like they do valves? I'm not sure what grit that would be.
 
Don't use lapping compound it will scratch. If you want to polish it you can use aluminum wheel polish,I tried that on pintles with debatable results. Sandpaper works fine on the flat parts,also use a circular motion,or push down and twist.
 
Finally found a bad one. The pintle seized,after I pop tested it at full flow. There was one tiny mark on the pintle,polished it and is working fine so far. At least I know I didn't drop any tools in the motor after all. I don't have the loud knocking sound at part throttle anymore,and the exaust at idle no longer sounds choppy.
 
nice! how do you get the two on the hard side that butt agents the manifold? I tried buying an elcheapo wrench and bending it but that didn't fit very well, maybe a medium depth 30 mm socket?
Im talking about 6.2 heads without stacked gaskets...What I ended up doing was using a 7/8s or something on the upper body because thats all I had that would work.
 
This 6.2 had the newer heads,my other 6.2 I used to pull the manifold every time.
 
I will never pull the manifold again, I did it once to install the turbo and its not fun with the frame being right there
 
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