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I'm back with a keeper. .

PT Wiring Solutions here on the Forum makes awesome complete custom sets for our 6.5s, he's a NASCAR wiring guru in real life, so you know how high-speed awesome and heavy gauge the wiring and connectors are, and it's all assembled using professional grade hardware and techniques.
I have a set here on one of my vehicles
 
You might try calling him direct and let him know your a member here with people recommending him. Helps him know where his customers are, and he might knock off a couple bucks. And heck yeah, he does nice work.
 
Okay guys, I need to use my 6.5td burb today so I had to install my new power master starter with out my new cables but I will only be using it today with out my new cables. Once my cables come I will redo the install with my new cables.

I'm not sure if how she sits matters. So before starting her I want to share my pics of how she sits right now. There is a small space where road dirt and debris can actually get up into the starter gear. I was able to close this gap or space with out using the support bracket but I know I need the bracket and this is how she is with the bracket after toying with trying to close the gap for about 25 minutes.

Am I safe with her sitting this way with the gap or can this create issue in the future?

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I am sure that will be fine. I prefer tinned cable.

Personally, I fill my connectors with solder and then stick the cable into the molten solder.

I have also heard the hydraulic crimpers work well.
 
Okay guys, I need to use my 6.5td burb today so I had to install my new power master starter with out my new cables but I will only be using it today with out my new cables. Once my cables come I will redo the install with my new cables.

I'm not sure if how she sits matters. So before starting her I want to share my pics of how she sits right now. There is a small space where road dirt and debris can actually get up into the starter gear. I was able to close this gap or space with out using the support bracket but I know I need the bracket and this is how she is with the bracket after toying with trying to close the gap for about 25 minutes.

Am I safe with her sitting this way with the gap or can this create issue in the future?

View attachment 49175

If your bolts are in the holes you have to live with the gap. You could make a shield to keep road debris out.
 
jrsavoie

I took off the support bracket in an effort to get it in there more to close the gap! When I took of the bracket I noticed that with the bracket the starter is NOT level she is angled downward towards the bell housing. With out the support bracket she sits level but I still can't close the gap.

I don't want to mess up my gear and flywheel gear if she is on that damn angle with the support bracket. Any ideas of how to handle this situation?
 
Bolt everything up, torque the bolts and don't worry about the gap.

I can not really tell what kind of angle you have going on. But if you used GM starter bolts, The starter should be pretty well in place with those.
I have bolted starters on and then installed the brace - bit I have found it easier to have the brace on the starter when I stick it up there. Get the 2 starter bolts in and snug. Then attach the brace and tighten it.

Then torque the starter bolts.

After the starter is installed, you can make a shield if you wish
 
Okay thanks, I managed to close the gap very little. I'm going to make a shield tomorrow to cover the gap. I tighter the two main Chevy bolts that hold it up. Now going to put the support bracket on.
 
I can still get the bracket on with them tight. The bracket sits flush up against the engine block but not flush against the starter support bolt. I'll take a pic in a second for you to see.
 
None of my starter braces have ever had a space between the brace and the starter.

The brace has always been up tight to the starter. I do not know that it would cause any issues like that or not.

I have on occasion used a bolt for the brace, when I lost the starter stud or something
 
Well she's back up and running. Now my fiancé and I are off on a 3.5 hour trip to Savannah GA and then back. Love road trips with my girl.
 
3 starter mounting poits are what is important. The tin is there to keep a big rock boncing of the ground from a ricochet off the tire from hitting the flywheel, and for the safety of a mechanic under the rig while it is idling. Don't sweat that tiny gap where you tin got bent.
 
Wow, right now we're still on our little trip. So far we stopped to fill the tires with air, stopped to fill the tank & stopped for dinner and this starter really kicks her over great! What a big improvement over the OG starter and all the pieces of crap Nappa sold me. I'm impressed!
 
I am sure that will be fine. I prefer tinned cable.

Personally, I fill my connectors with solder and then stick the cable into the molten solder.

I have also heard the hydraulic crimpers work well.

I bought a hammer crimper, but I'm going to do like you and also use solder! If I use solder can I still hammer crimp them?
 
No, just do the solder is best.

The crimper is the cheaper way out. Or like me, the cheapest way out: 5lbs sledge and an anvil...sometimes I want to smack myself. I know better, I just dont do it.
 
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