I just started running BioD in my truck and I had to change another filter. It's hit or miss on quick starting and every now and then it goes into a rough idle when stopped. No smoke so it appears to be starving for fuel. Someone here had to drop theirs and was kind enough to post pics of the entire process, any body remember who that was?
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I think I'm gonna hafta drop the fuel tank
- Thread starter Drago
- Start date
:suicide: I hate dropping the tank! Likely the expert at it by now.
Before you start:
obtain a Walbro lift pump.
obtain the fuel level sensor from burning oil.
Disconnect the fuel level sensor FIRST!
Throw away the tank sock use the Walbro built in screen or a prefilter before the lift pump. After all a plugged sock is the #1 reason you will be dropping the tank.
Replace the fuel level sensor with one from Leroy and forget about it from here on out.
If the tank lining is pealing off replace then tank.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...wth-in-ULSD-and-Biodiesel-This-can-affect-you!
Before you start:
obtain a Walbro lift pump.
obtain the fuel level sensor from burning oil.
Disconnect the fuel level sensor FIRST!
Throw away the tank sock use the Walbro built in screen or a prefilter before the lift pump. After all a plugged sock is the #1 reason you will be dropping the tank.
Replace the fuel level sensor with one from Leroy and forget about it from here on out.
If the tank lining is pealing off replace then tank.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...wth-in-ULSD-and-Biodiesel-This-can-affect-you!
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Is there a reason you drop the tank instead of lifting the bed?
When I was working for the fleet where we had hundreds of pick ups, we were frequently changing fuel pumps until we learned to change the fuel filter every other oil change (in the gas trucks). It was much quicker and easier to lift the bed than it was to drop the tank. 2 harness points at the rear, filler neck, and the bed mount bolts. Even when we didn't use a car lift to lift the bed, Just a floor jack with a 2 x 4 to lift one side of the bed block it up then go to the other side lifted the same way.
Keep in mind our brains baking in the 115° weather here might have skewed or thought process --just the way we did it.
When I was working for the fleet where we had hundreds of pick ups, we were frequently changing fuel pumps until we learned to change the fuel filter every other oil change (in the gas trucks). It was much quicker and easier to lift the bed than it was to drop the tank. 2 harness points at the rear, filler neck, and the bed mount bolts. Even when we didn't use a car lift to lift the bed, Just a floor jack with a 2 x 4 to lift one side of the bed block it up then go to the other side lifted the same way.
Keep in mind our brains baking in the 115° weather here might have skewed or thought process --just the way we did it.
3500GMC
What T F, over
Compulsory exercise. 
If you have the right equip its easier to lift the bed, but by yourself its easier to drop the tank.
dangerousdave
1994 6.5 Suburban
Been there, I agree with him. It's a good time to de-rust and primer/paint too.
They're not that heavy when empty, and doing it yourself is less stressful for me anyway.
Good luck.
Don't forget eye protection!
I don't like all the hassles/expence of BioD. I would just rather run WVO. The cost savings were huge for me back when I was in my truck 10 hours a day. Fuel was my biggest expence and it went down to basicaly nothing with WVO.
Despite the BS rumors or bio marketing otherwise: One has to convert their older fuel system to work with biodiesel. This means removing the tank sock, better prefilter like a CAT water separator, fuel lines rated for biodiesel, better fuel level sensor, and a lift pump rated for biodiesel. The CAT prefilter is optional if the biodiesel is good. Biocide in the fuel also will save you a lot of trouble.
I haven't saved any money from Biodiesel use. It was convenient to fuel at home every night and vs. the local fuel price was cheaper. However, 45 min away where I loaded the trailer I could get same price #2 diesel. The #2 gave me 10% more MPG. The parts cost for me has me avoiding even 5% bio now. (I am tired of dropping the tank ans wasting the "bad" fuel. Although biocide use would cure my issues. )
If I were to start using it again I would make sure you get a Walbro lift pump and the fuel level sensor from Burning oil. There isn't a better lift pump on the market for the bio at that price - I have tried and ruined them all. The Walbro's just lasted longer. (One is still going after a rebuild like 3 years later. Average life of others was 3-6 months.) You should see my lift pump graveyard.
You can write off the home fueling station cost on taxes in past years.
AAARRRRRRGGGGGGGHHHHHHH, the GDam tank is all speckled with rust and the tank filter was most defiantly clogged. Dropping the tank was a PITA, the fuel fill screws snapped off and the backer nut on the strap busted off it's mount, I had to use a hacksaw blade to cut the bolt. The fuel level sensor and the rest of the assembly is corroded as well. I can't afford a new tank and assembly right now but by gawd I'm gonna come up with something to get my truck back on the road.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Can you pick up a 5 gallon boat plastic tank? Strap it in the bed of the truck run 2 fuel lines and that will
Get you threw till Payday. Good luck.
Get you threw till Payday. Good luck.
Junkyard for tank. Not sure if gas/diesel is the same tank.
Parts America with combined discounts is about the cheapest online.
:nopics:
If that silver paint coating stuff is coming off in strips the tank is done. The strips will even plug the inlet to a spin on prefilter. Without the coating they rust through. So you can't get more life out of the tank without serious trouble (Plugged filters) even without a sock. You know I tried it... :rolleyes5:
With future biodiesel use and a working fuel gauge the fuel level sensor from burning oil is the only way to go. Otherwise don't waste the money replacing the factory unit. I am not kidding.
Parts America with combined discounts is about the cheapest online.
:nopics:
If that silver paint coating stuff is coming off in strips the tank is done. The strips will even plug the inlet to a spin on prefilter. Without the coating they rust through. So you can't get more life out of the tank without serious trouble (Plugged filters) even without a sock. You know I tried it... :rolleyes5:
With future biodiesel use and a working fuel gauge the fuel level sensor from burning oil is the only way to go. Otherwise don't waste the money replacing the factory unit. I am not kidding.
Big T
Well-Known Member
Plenty of rust free tanks out here in CA. I could probably locate one cheap, but shipping will be more than the tank.
Got one on the wrecked '95 if that would work. It's just going to get thrown out. It was always a CA truck.
Got one on the wrecked '95 if that would work. It's just going to get thrown out. It was always a CA truck.
jrsavoie
Recruit
I've been running bio-diesel since it was available, Seems to me that was in the mid to late 90's
Seems when you first run it you have fuel filter issues. I never plugged a tank sock - except for the oak leaf issue.
I started with 3% and worked my way up to 11%. I run as much as 20% on occasion
Seems when you first run it you have fuel filter issues. I never plugged a tank sock - except for the oak leaf issue.
I started with 3% and worked my way up to 11%. I run as much as 20% on occasion
THERE! I FIXED IT!
It's a thirty five gallon agri-chemical tank. same size as the one I took out. I used the old sock that I cleaned up with the soap I made with the BioD glycerine. the SES light went out and test drove for about thirty miles. Don't think I'll have to worry about rust again. I purchased the tank awhile ago from a pawn shop for fifty and the lines and clamps came to near forty. I put a struck across the top and dunnage on the bottom to keep it from moving around.
It's a thirty five gallon agri-chemical tank. same size as the one I took out. I used the old sock that I cleaned up with the soap I made with the BioD glycerine. the SES light went out and test drove for about thirty miles. Don't think I'll have to worry about rust again. I purchased the tank awhile ago from a pawn shop for fifty and the lines and clamps came to near forty. I put a struck across the top and dunnage on the bottom to keep it from moving around.
hookedup50
Well-Known Member
That'll work. Looks like my pesticide spray tank.