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I smell fuel after shutoff. Hard start cold

Ok so I finally got a decent enough flash light so I could look around for the fuel leak. The fuel filter housing looked like it was leaking from the bottom. Removed it and looks like someone has had it of before. the plastic nut on the bottom was just bearly hand tight, the thing with the wires coming out of it has some dings in it and the rubber grommet around the wires is broken away from the unit. What is the thing with the wires and should I replace it?
 
Ah-Ha!! I had the same problem last year.. the fuel heater was leaking out from where the wires come out of it. That sucker is $$$$ so I removed the fuel manager.. got a filtre housing for a tractor-trailer and bazzam ... Fixed for $50... My chev dealer said $300 CDN for the fuel heater, and i spent $7000 there last year, over $50,000 in the last 10 years.. just on parts..
IMO you proly dont need the heater there in texas anyhoo!
 
Damn, that little f'er is that much! Good idea though, I could get one from the truck parts. If it won't throw a code for not having the heater hooked up, I'd try it. If that heater is really that expensive then I'm gonna go the other route. I'm still concerned about the injection pump though. I also notice quite a bit of oil residue in my plemun, intake and my turbo.
 
Don't know how well you can see it but these are of the oil in the turbo, intake and plenum.
 

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Oh and this is the peice that was leaking. It screws in the bottom of the filter housing.
 

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Sinners Saint said:
Damn, that little f'er is that much! Good idea though, I could get one from the truck parts. If it won't throw a code for not having the heater hooked up, I'd try it. If that heater is really that expensive then I'm gonna go the other route. I'm still concerned about the injection pump though. I also notice quite a bit of oil residue in my plemun, intake and my turbo.
Click to expand...

Will not code if disconnected, but you will need to replace the oring
 
Thanks Turbine Doc, I figure I'd try replacing the o-ring first, if that don't work I'll go from there. I'm also going to replace all the rubber fuel lines as well.
 
Are you sure you have everything hooked up to proper ports on teh flt mgr, and that you didn't leave any visegrips on fuel lines, or disrupted the PMD wires or other wires/harnesses on re-install?

Do you have all normal lights? WTS, SES, etc?

Check your fuses, specifically the ECM/PCM fuse.

You get fuel out of water drain with LP jumpered?

Anychance something clogged in the FLT MGR - IP route?

Did you bleed the flt manager enough? (jumpered it with bleeder open till fuel pouring out?)
 
x2 on matt''s post. If it was running before the work then there are only a few things that will prevent it from starting. Fuel lines aren't connected correctly, electronics that you may have disconnected didn't get reconnected, filter manager not full w/ fuel. Some people have made the mistake of bleeding fuel through the t-valve instead of the valve on top of the filter.
 
Could'nt really work on the truck to much today because my back tightened up on me, but a friend told me to crack loose the injector lines and crank the engine over to bleed the air out. But that did'nt do anything helpful, I did'nt even see any fuel come out of the lines. In a few days when my back isn't so tight I'll try something else .
 
Since no fuel came out of there, may be a good sign. Double check your work above, make sure the filter mgr is filled up and air free. (crack bleeder on top and jump LP until fuel comes pouring out) if that never happens, work the system backwards until LP is spweing fuel all over the place. Its gotta be something simple.
 
just so I'm clear, the line that connects to the OUT port on the filter housing runs to the port on top of the IP, and the line that connects to the drain port runs to the T valve, right?
 
Sinners Saint said:
just so I'm clear, the line that connects to the OUT port on the filter housing runs to the port on top of the IP, and the line that connects to the drain port runs to the T valve, right?
Click to expand...

There are 4 holes in the filter manager where fuel can pass through.

1. Input from LP
2. Output to IP
3. Output to T-valve
4. The black valve on top of the filter

Obviously they all have their purpose. The main purpose of the valve on top of the filter allows you to get the air out of the fuel lines and filter manager. The cleanest way to use it is connect a 1/4" clear tube to it and put the other end in a container. Turn the valve counter clockwise and open completely until diesel flows out in a constant stream w/ no air bubbles or spitting. I found the easiest way to jump the LP is to run some trailer wire from the driver side battery to the LP. Let it run until fuel flows free.
 
The code 35 can be a PMD issue.

The leak can be a line as mentioned but also the fuel managers will rot out in the bottom from water and leak down through the fuel heate and drip out into the valley are and then drip out through the weep hole and down and out on the ground.

The stock fuel water drain line runs from the bottom of the fuel manager and goes up to the front of the engine to the drain valve. These hoses crack and can leak.

The fuel feed line also lays in the valley and can leak.

Any of these lines can leak and they can also let air leak back into the system at night.


Two issues here. Possible PMD failure and a leak in the fuel manager or fuel line.


Missy
 
Well I had so much trouble with my back that I had to get my brother over to work on it. I already pulled the intake and checked for unplugged elec connections, and check the hoses. When he got here he cracked the lines loose on the back of the injection pump and had me turn it over for a little bit. It finally got fuel outta the IP. To my shock it almost cranked without the intake and alternator connected to the engine. So we reassembled it and fired it up. It took about ten minutes of running wierd(stumbling and stalling) then it ran great. Better than before. I drove it about 50 miles and no SES lights or issues. I let him use it to go pick up a trailer with a couple of my project bikes on it and bring it to my house. He had no problems until he got back to my neighborhood and it died twice on him down my street. I drove it around the street and it died 3 times in less than a 1/8 of a mile, no SES lights , soo I'm assuming the PMD is shit. Good thing is I don't need a IP yet.
 
Are you sure your LP and/or OPS are working. It should not take that long for the IP to get fuel?

By the way, PMDCable is in the Houston area should you need a cable and pmd.
 
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