• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

I smell fuel after shutoff. Hard start cold

Sinners Saint

Sinners Saint

New Member
Messages
82
Reaction score
4
Location
Houston, Texas
Ok recently the SES came on. I have'nt had any major issues with it running. Its been hessitant to start, usually I have to crank on it for about 8-10 seconds. Runs good on the freeway, in fact I've been in the habit of running around 65-75mph. Occationally it berely stalls on take off, but its not real noticable. What bugs me is when I shut it down and climb out I smell diesel when I walk around the front off the truck. I checked the code it came up 35. And when the SES is on the cruise control won't set. From what I have read it looks like I need a PMD, but I figured I'd see what more experienced 6.5ers have to input on this.
 
Check the fuel line under the intake and also the filter manager. If their leaking it would let air into the system and give a hard cold start.
 
Not to say it isn't your pmd/fsd but if that fails you won't smell diesel unless you have a leak.
 
I would think any leak in the galley under the intake - whether it's the fuel filter on a line - would drain backward and wet the bottom of the bell housing. Is it spotting the driveway?
 
I recently changed the fuel filter, tightened the bleeder on it, but only by hand since its plastic I did'nt want to break it, should it be tighter,like with some pliers or something? It has had a few spots in the driveway under the bellhousing, but when I checked them out it was a/c condensation and a little oil(I have a tiny leak) and I rubbed my finger in it and smelled it, but it does'nt smell like diesel. I have'nt messed with any injector lines or anything of that sort. The only time I get a stall in usually in 2nd gear, when I take off or am driving in a parking lot. Never in higher gears.
 
Last edited:
Just a guess on the Internet. I've pulled several intakes on these vehicles. Overtime that fuel line rots and becomes brittle from the heat. A very small leak would allow a bit of air in, a bit of fuel out, difficult morning starts and almost no drip on the driveway.

Just a guess.
 
Fluids dripping off the bellhousing may be diesel washing oil off the block. It'd smell more like oil than diesel if it's sat for a while. Get a step ladder and inspect at night like a CSI.

I think you're getting a small leak and stumbling when the embolism in the fuel line gets sucked into the IP.
 
Another possibility, rubber lines on filter mgr get hard over time, spring clamps can no longer put enuff squeeze on hardened lines so they leak fuel/air I replaced my hoses with new rubber and worm screw clamps.

Another possibility IP & injector return lines leaking cracked under the cloth overbraid and yoy can't see the cracked line under the braid.
 
Problem: Explain your problem in concise language (ie: Cranks but won’t fire). Was running fine with the occasional stall taking of in second gear. Today it started stumbling when I pushed in the clutch, then finally started stalling real bad when driving. Stopped at my daughters school and would'nt crank back up. I poured some water over the IP and sat there for about 15 minutes and it cranked and ran enough to get me home, but was still stalling and stubbering.Checked the codes again and got a 34 and 35. Still smell diesel when I shut it down and get out, it rained alot today so when I walked back around the truck later I noticed the rainbow looking flow in the runoff coming from under my truck. Could'nt really tell where it came from due to it being dark under the truck.

Demographics: tell us about your truck and your ambient conditions:

- Year: 1994
- Truck model and class (ie: c2500) C3500
- Automatic or Standard: Standard
- Mileage: (indicate miles or km) 139K
- Replaced parts and mods (IP, PMD, chip/PCM, TM, injectors etc) None that I know of, looks like the IP may have been rebuilt in the past, but the green tag has been torn off so I can't get any info off it.
- Model: ‘S’ or ‘F’ engine, NA or Turbo, EGR? F engine ,GM3 turbo
- Ambient outside temp: (indicate *C or *F) __________
- What fuel are you using? (#1 Diesel, #2 Diesel, Bio, VO, WVO, etc) Whatever Shell and Flying J sell.
- What fuel additives are you using? none
- Where are you located? Houston, Tx.

General maintenance: inspect and evaluate the condition of each. When were they last changed?
- Air filter about 700 miles ago
- Fuel filter same as air filter
- CDR Valve? have'nt changed it since I got the truck about 3 weeks ago.
- Coolant – last flushed/replaced at : don't know
- Oil – synthetic/regular, changed at: Mobil turbo diesel 5w40 with fram filter about 700 miles ago
- Batteries – state of charge, (matched set) replaced at: Yellow top Optimas install by po just before I got the truck
- Battery cables and grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened): ______________
- Glow Plugs - how many miles on them? probably originals What type? probably stickers
- Injectors - last changed at :don't know probably stockers


History: (Describe how the problem first appeared.)
- What were you doing when it happened? Driving about 40 MPH in 3rd gear
- How was the truck running fine before this problem appeared? Was only slightly stalling in second on take off, no ses light until recently.
- Has this problem ever happened before? Not this bad
- Describe any related factors that might be part of the problem. When the SES light came on , cruise control would'nt work.
- Have you checked for DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)? (Y.N)yep And? DTC 34 - Injection Timing Stepper Motor Fault
DTC 35 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Short)


Diagnostics:

1] Starting:
1a] Does the engine start? When it cools off
1b] Does the engine crank over? yes
1c] Are your batteries fully charged? yes
1d] Have you removed, cleaned, and tightened all battery connections? yes
1e] Does your Wait to Start light come on for a time? How long? about 10-15 seconds
1f] Does your glow plug light come on? _________ For how long? _________
1g] Do you see smoke from the exhaust while cranking? What color? yep, black
1h] Does the Service Engine Light Glow during Start/bulb check? yep

2] Fuel Issues (if not running):
2a] Can you hear your lift pump working?
2b] Do you get a steady flow of fuel from the water drain (T-handle) ? _________
2c] Loosen the inlet line from the IP – is fuel coming out (Lift Pump on)? ___________
2d] Loosen an injector line and crank the engine - does fuel come out? _________
2e] Do you hear a vacuum (hiss) when you remove the fuel cap? ___________

3] PMD / IP Issues
3a] Location of PMD (on pump, on intake, remote mounted) on the pump
3b] Condition of Extension harness (if used) Vendor or Homemade? _________
3c] Condition of grounds / ground wires to IP / PMD. Check Harness. _________
3d] PMD Make: stanadyne
3e] PMD Age: ?

4] Stalling Issues
4a] Do you experience stalling only when hot? yep
4b] Does it stall under particular circumstances? (ie hit bump, or on accel) Started stalling on acceleration today
4c] Does pouring cool water over the IP seem to help with restarting? Don't know but I tried it and about 15 minutes later it started
4d] Is stalling momentary (engine recovers)? Only if I clutch it.
4e] Does SES light come on when engine hiccups? already on
4f] Does cruise control quit working when engine hiccups? yep
4g] Does re-starting seem to reset engine, restoring cruise and power? No
4h] Changes to dash lights or instruments during stalling events? no

5] Running Issues
5a] On cold start, does upper rad hose get hard before engine warms up? _______
5b] Any bubbles or oil film in coolant overflow tank? no
5c] Any white slime on oil surfaces (dipstick, CDR, oil Fill cap)? no
5d] Excessive white smoke from exhaust on cold start? no
5e] Excessive black smoke from exhaust under hard acceleration? yes

6] Performance Issues
6a] Do you have gauges (boost, EGT) ? No
6b] Maximum boost under load? ?
6c] Have you added a performance PCM (reflash) or Chip? No
6d] Have you changed exhaust / downpipe / crossover? No
6e] Wastegate – mechanical or vacuum (OEM)? OEM

7] Temperature-related Issues:
7a] Single or dual thermostats? single
7b] Have you replaced them lately? Manufacturer of replacements? nope
7c] Have you pulled and cleaned Radiator and coolers lately? no
7d] Have you replaced the fan clutch? Manufacturer of replacement? no
7e] (winter) Have you tested your antifreeze? Good to what temp? no
7f] (winter) Are you using a winter grille cover? no
 
I agree w/ ak. You need to look over every fuel line. I would probably replace every fuel line w/ viton lines.
 
The rubber fuel hoses run under the intake. You can remove it to get at them or you can try and fish the new ones through without removing it but if they get stuck you will be removing it anyway.
 
If you can't find the problem in the rubber lines one other place to check is the fsu (fuel sending unit). Been known to corrode a pinhole in them.
 
Rodd said:
The rubber fuel hoses run under the intake. You can remove it to get at them or you can try and fish the new ones through without removing it but if they get stuck you will be removing it anyway.
Click to expand...

Wrap a piece of sturdy line or wire around the end of the old rubber hose as you pull out the hose from under the intake the line/wire is fed under the intake, then tie the new hose to the end and then pull it back under the intake with the new hose, will save having to remove the intake.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top