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I need help with removing 93 Suburban brakes

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fozenpink

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93 Suburban 2500...my front passenger side brake line is torn...replacing line and brake pads, how do I know if I need new calipers and rotors? :eek:

HELP ...I am 50 year old clueless female and cant figure out how to get rotors off front of truck
 
Calipers can corrode internally, can't really tell from the exterior. The piston should retract easily with the help of a c-clamp. Slowly here.

Rotors have a minimum thickness spec. If the steering wheel did not shake while braking, should be ok pending a visual inspection for cracks.

The rotor swap is a PITA sometimes. Its sandwiched behind the hub with pressed in lug nut studs.

There are a few rotor/hub swap threads around here.

Welcome to TTS.
 
fozenpink said:
93 Suburban 2500...my front passenger side brake line is torn...replacing line and brake pads, how do I know if I need new calipers and rotors? :eek:

HELP ...I am 50 year old clueless female and cant figure out how to get rotors off front of truck
Click to expand...

2WD or 4x4.
Min thickness should be stamped on outside diameter or rotor. Meassure it with a micrometer or caliper or auto parts store can do it too.
Brake calipers are cheap IMO just replace them if they are still original. You want the best quality rotor you can find, Wagner, Raybestos...ect Stay away from Chinese versions.
 
1500 or 2500? If it's a 1500 they just slip over the hub, if it's a 2500 the hub bearing has to come off and then the studs pressed out to get the rotors off.
 
TY!!
my son is doing the best he can but it is very frustrating....can't get rotors off and the threads on here confused me...LOL..I need a step by step with visuals.
yes its 2500....we can't seem to get the hub off.

the grooves don't seem too deep on passenger side, but as novice, how is that defined?

after reading other threads, plan on taking those AutoZone Duras brakes back!!

Now I am wondering if we should get new calipers too?
 
1500, but might be useful?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPIMj962YZ0

Looks like indepth 2500 front end R&R (did not watch whole thing) 1-4 vids.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlCR7Zrvs0Y



Edit he gets into the rotor alittle in vid #3 just over half way. Bad thing I dont think he shows removal, but does show installation of new rotor, so you can see you'll need to press the lug studs out in reverse of how he shows. Should give a real good idea anyway.
What I do is buy a couple lug nuts to sacrifice and thread them down on the stud then hammer the stud out. Be carefull not to damage stud, but if you do they are cheap at auto parts also (unless you have to buy a whole set!!).
 
WarWagon said:
This was a 1993 how to I did myself...
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...-K2500-front-rotor-disc-replacement-8-lug-4x4
Click to expand...

TY saw this yesterday, my confusion is this: my son thinks the disk looking thing sitting in front of rotor should come off separately in order to get rotor off...is this incorrect
(attaching picture)

wheel 1.jpgwheel2.jpg...
or does this thing come off all in ONE piece?

does he undo the 4 bolts from the back to get the entire unit off?

Sorry to be such a nuisance.:(

I will be having read the posts and look at photos. TY!!!!
 
never mind the nuts on there, he put them on to protect the bolts because he started whacking it...yikes.
 
I am seeing this on my phone not a full screen, but rotor looks good to me. No need to remove. Anyone else see a reason to pull it?

You said he brake line was torn. If you caught some debris and tore it I would think caliper/rotor were unaffected.

The offer in post 6 is more valuable than you probably realize...
 
You are looking at the "Hub". You have to pull the 4 bolts, cv shaft is already to pop out with the single use nut off (Buy a new one for each side), and the hub rotor comes off. Then you whack the lug nuts out and the rotor will come free.

You will have to follow the procedure I posted. post #2 has a picture of the "hub" and you can see how it requires you to pull the hubs to change rotors.

By the way, the Brakebest pads are not the ones you want to use to stop a 3/4 ton suburban. You want to use the most expensive semi metallic pads you can get your hands on. I have had the pad come off the backing and ruin a rotor. The AZ pads don't stop as well. Wagner Thermoquiet or Raybestos are what you need. Upgrading the rear shoes to a $100+ set with new wheel cylinders should be in the works as well. Do not go cheap on any brake component because it will bite you in the ass on performance stopping these rare heavy pigs. Adjusting the rear shoes every other oil change is a very good idea. Advice is free, but, I have put brakes to the test...

If the rear brakes are lasting over 100K they are simply shifting the work to the front and overheating/ruining them. Don't concentrate just on the front as rear brake issues cause problems with wandering/etc. in the front.
 
That disc looking part is the hub of the hub bearing. You have to go and remove the 36 MM nut, then remove the 4 15 MM 12 point bolts that hold the hub bearing on, then you can knock out the wheel studs to remove the rotor.
 
OK..TY...we did get the nut off with a massive ratchet....LOL.....are the 4 bolts accessible only from the rear?
I think he needs to left truck up more and get under-behind to see them?
 
fozenpink said:
OK..TY...we did get the nut off with a massive ratchet....LOL.....are the 4 bolts accessible only from the rear?
I think he needs to left truck up more and get under-behind to see them?
Click to expand...

Only get to them from back side. Use a six point 15mm socket if you have.
 
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