I need help with removing 93 Suburban brakes

[fozenpink]

superb info...TY

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Only get to them from back side. Use a six point 15mm socket if you have.

Could've swore mine were 12 points on my 95. Now I'm going to have to go double check and see.

 

[3500GMC]

I wouldn't mess with those rotors, they look pretty darn good.

 

[fozenpink]

the passenger side has fine grooves on the inside..what do you think about that?

 

[Will L.]

Can you post a picture of it?

If the grooves aren't too bad you could run it. What happens is the brake pad has less surface area to contact and it will wear the pad a little quicker until the pad wears Into those grooves so you loose some pad life is all.

If the grooves are too much you will have unequal braking force and could pose a danger.

 

[Burning oil]

Could've swore mine were 12 points on my 95. Now I'm going to have to go double check and see.

Only one Ive done was a 93, its possible they went to 12 point??. Mine were deffinately 6 point.

 

[WarWagon]

6 point 15mm head bolts X4 to hold the hub in on my 1993 and 1995.

Also check rotor thickness when evaluating the need to do this job. Brake pedal pulse is almost a dead giveaway the rotors need to be replaced. I don't bother turning them anymore. As per above this job is best avoided if possible.

 

[ak diesel driver]

6 pt on my 96 as well

 

[ak diesel driver]

only real issue I found was one bolt needs as short a socket as you can get on it to allow room for the breaker bar.

 

[GM Guy]

how is the OP progressing? hopefully well.

I think I will make sure I only own one 4wd in the future, this doesnt sound fun at all.

 

[ak diesel driver]

first time is the worst as rust has taken hold of things. IIRC the bolt originally had some lock tight on them too. mine come apart pretty easy now sanded off all the rust and was very generous with the anti sieze.

 

[fozenpink]

TY to all who helped us...everyone has been so kind and friendly.
we finally gave up on getting rotors off...what a nightmare!

Only the passenger side rotor had some fine grooves so we put everything on with new ceramic pads and if it squeals or seems uneven, will go to a shop and have them just take the one rotor off to be resurfaced!

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

TY to all who helped us...everyone has been so kind and friendly.
we finally gave up on getting rotors off...what a nightmare!

Only the passenger side rotor had some fine grooves so we put everything on with new ceramic pads and if it squeals or seems uneven, will go to a shop and have them just take the one rotor off to be resurfaced!

Take the ceramic pads off or else you will be replacing rotors in short order. The factory GM rotors(and even most replacements for that matter) are not hardened to work with ceramic pads. Run ONLY semi metalics unless you like changing rotors out.

 

[WarWagon]

Take the ceramic pads off or else you will be replacing rotors in short order. The factory GM rotors(and even most replacements for that matter) are not hardened to work with ceramic pads. Run ONLY semi metalics unless you like changing rotors out.

The ceramics don't stop as well as the Semi metallic IMO.

 

[Big T]

The ceramics don't stop as well as the Semi metallic IMO.

Tell that to the Space Shuttle crews.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Tell that to the Space Shuttle crews.

It all depends on the braking, but for most braking semi metalics do stop better. ceramics do work better under extreme heat as they don't gas as much and hold up to the heat better.

 

[WarWagon]

Tell that to the Space Shuttle crews.

The Columbia crew had a hard time with a ceramic something... :mad2:

 

[Will L.]

ooohh that was rough.
The rotors have to be upgraded to handle the higher heat with the ceramic pads, or you will get softer high heat braking from the pads dissipating all the heat and the rotor staying hot. Warpy warpy maybe Too.