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I just bought an LLY...

Well, the blocker plate is installed, so I think that's the EGR, right? And the code that I got cleared was P0103 - Mass Air Flow. And I'm guessing that's the code that I got back after I floored it later in the day.

Side question, at WOT, the duramax goes from smooth high throttle to a quick clicking noise. That's honestly the best way I can describe the sound. But it only happens at high rpms and when the truck is being pushed. What does defueling or the limiter sound like? I found all that mud and crud in the air box, so this odd sound is a little disconcerting, as I'm wondering if something is damaged in the engine.
 
mouthpiece comparison
mouthpiece comparison.jpg
LBZ mouthpiece installed
lbz mouthpiece installed.jpg
Air Filter as I found it when I first bought the truck
dirty air filter - small.jpg
Air box when I changed the air filter for the first time
dirty airbox - small.jpg
Rear rotors - both sides of truck, both sides of rotors
rear disc - old - small.jpg
 
treegump said:
Well, the blocker plate is installed, so I think that's the EGR, right? And the code that I got cleared was P0103 - Mass Air Flow. And I'm guessing that's the code that I got back after I floored it later in the day.

Side question, at WOT, the duramax goes from smooth high throttle to a quick clicking noise. That's honestly the best way I can describe the sound. But it only happens at high rpms and when the truck is being pushed. What does defueling or the limiter sound like? I found all that mud and crud in the air box, so this odd sound is a little disconcerting, as I'm wondering if something is damaged in the engine.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you didn't get the finger stick installed correctly. If the blocker plate was in and you didn't get a code though, then there is no reason to install the finger stick. Without hearing the sound, my best guess for the noise would be driveline slack. Does it have a 1 or 2 piece driveshaft? If it is a 2 piece the crriage bearing could be going bad which is not uncommon.
 
The tow haul mode is a completely different animal than a mere overdrive lockout. The Tow haul will shift differentially like at higher RPM's for loaded or towing applications where you need power and no gear hunting. It also downshifts to use compression braking. There is no reason to prevent the use of 5th when towing. Only under extreme power modification say adding 200+ HP can you slip the transmission and then it will limp to protect itself. Towing with slightly over stock power isn't going to hurt anything.

I recall there was a software update to use the different mouthpiece. There may also be an update for the HVAC.

Again your rough idle is a leaking fuel injector, Fuel Pressure Regulator, or rail regulator. Likely it is the FPR on the back of the CP3 and was discussed. Not an impossible job, but, cheaper if you do it yourself with the cheat sheet instructions I posted.
 
treegump said:
mouthpiece comparison

LBZ mouthpiece installed

Air Filter as I found it when I first bought the truck
View attachment 33780
Air box when I changed the air filter for the first time
View attachment 33781
Click to expand...

More importantly regarding the airbox... how did the intake tube look...you really only need worry if the intake tube on the clean side of the filter was dirty like that...
 
treegump said:
Side question, at WOT, the duramax goes from smooth high throttle to a quick clicking noise. That's honestly the best way I can describe the sound. But it only happens at high rpms and when the truck is being pushed. What does defueling or the limiter sound like?
Click to expand...

The sound is probably the pilot injection turning off. At high RPM the pilot injection is disabled and you get the "diesel clatter" sound.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
... The biggest reasons for the LLY's that did overheat was poor tuning on GM's part to comply with the added emissions systems. The LB7's did not suffer from the problems that some LLY's did because it didn't have all the emissions crap on it.
Click to expand...


The poor hardware integration of the new VGT on top of a hot air intake is what forced loaded LLY's into submission over the 1st gen dmax. Google "thermal feedback".

The LB7 has a wastegate and an efficient turbine, with much less compressor heat output. If wanting to validate this statement, just measure the COT, compressor output temps between the 2 models, under max load. That additional heat is unloaded in front of the radiator. There is plenty of public documentation on this old news.

Tuning can mitigate the wastegate omission, but not many are up to that task, which would require a full understanding of compression thermodynamics as it applies to turbochargers, shaft work, etc. GM certainly never anticipated the need. We determined, with trial and error, that a "software wastegate" was possible and necessary, particularly for heavily loaded trucks running at high elevations.
 
Sold the older chevy so I have a little money to do repairs.

Removed fingerstick and no more engine light.

Looking for/at Raybestos Advanced Brakes because I'm hard on my trucks (but I don't haul anything...yet), and considering doing all 4 at the same time - also considering changing out e-brake shoes and all new hardware while I have them apart?

Moog steering components w/ Cognito braces

Exhaust system - single back - trying to figure out if MBRP offers something w/o CAT & w/o muffler - will go single back under your guys recommendation

May consider getting the bigger mirrors....I really would like to see more behind me, especially with the little bit clearance I gained from the older truck
 
Put the bigger mirors off of ebay on my cousins LLY and they are nearly identical to my LBZ except for the way the turning signal lights come through the glass, not noticable unless really trying to find a difference.

Diamond eye has dmax exhaust that fits pretty well. Leroy hooked me up.

Can't really go wrong with moog. Not sure what the best braces are for the $, i asked in a thread a few days ago and never got a reply...
 
eBay 06+ style mirrors = Amazing, you won't regret them.

Brakes: Yes, do it all, including e-brake shoes, as they'll likely break when you pull the rotors. Raybestos stuff is good. Be sure to carefully to inspect all 4 calipers, and replace a pair as necessary.
 
Dad's 05 LLY said:
eBay 06+ style mirrors = Amazing, you won't regret them.
Click to expand...

Ebay or discountmirror ?

I'm getting itchy on things, so I'm considering pulling a loan for everything. Not sure if it's a great idea, but I figure it'd be easier to do monthly payments and do everything at once... If I can get a loan...that is.
 
tanman_2006 said:
I did a loan on repairs in a pinch and wished i wouldnt have. Just my personal experience. I am really getting tired of this debt crap, at least as far as my trucks go. The farm and my house are kinda hard to pay for out of pocket.

I got these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-SILVE...ts=Make:Chevrolet&hash=item231fcc1131&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...


I know. And are those towing mirrors manually extendable?

Just purchased all new rear brake hardware and pcv reroute. Next will come exhaust & downpipe, and then steering. Steering wasn't as bad as I was originally thinking, and I'm trying to rid myself of this loping idle and foul smelling exhaust...
 
Warwagon had an idle problem with his LLY IIRC, my cousins has the same issue but it doesnt bother him.

Yes they are manual extending but power everything else, my LBZ's are manual and i dont think they made a power extend in our yr model and mirror style. Maybe in the newer ones..
 
tanman_2006 said:
Warwagon had an idle problem with his LLY IIRC, my cousins has the same issue but it doesnt bother him.

Yes they are manual extending but power everything else, my LBZ's are manual and i dont think they made a power extend in our yr model and mirror style. Maybe in the newer ones..
Click to expand...

The idle problem isn't too bad except when I'm travelling at idle speed. I like the vehicle to travel at a comfortable speed, but when the idle is rough than the travelling gets a little rough traveling.

And I don't need power extenders...just wanted to make sure they extend. :)
 
photo.jpg

Muffler & Cat cut out and replaced with flex exhaust till I can afford 4" or 5" exhaust. I was trying to keep the flex as short as possible, but where that cat was, it curved real bad, so I'm considering on going straight with flex. Only problem is, how long does flex exhaust last on diesels?

Also, when I took it for a test drive, the transmission seemed to shift right before redlining at WOT. Is that normal? Would taking it into the dealership take care of that? I ordered the PCV reroute, so if it is a good idea to take it in, I'm doing it after I do the reroute.
 
In stock mine feels like it shifts way early. LBZ probably has different shift point than a LLY but I think they are programmed to shift early.

Big rigs run flex pipe, IDK why we couldnt do it with good results. Just get good quality.
 
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