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I just bought an LLY...

treegump said:
Is there a way to adjust the hood? Seems there's a little play in it. There are little adjusters at each side in the front that you can use to adjust how tightly it closes.

Is it normal for there to be about an 1/8" of play in the cv shafts? (cv joint to cv joint) If your talking about side to side, then yes it is normal to have a little movement in it. Up and down is not good though.

I think the play is in the gear box itself, not in the other parts. Is this a common problem spot? Is there a way to tighten it? Gearboxes in teh new trucks are pretty good, but they do wear over time like anything else. Most likely cause of play though is in the idler and pitman arms just like in the older trucks.

Have you heard of a high idle switch for the lly? Is it as "simple" as installing a high idle on the 6.5? Via the ECM? The LLY comes with a high idle built in, AND you can hardwire in a PTO function that will work via the cruise control switch. Built in high idle. http://www.kennedydiesel.com/docs/Elevated_Idle_Description_LLY_Duramax.cfm PTO add on. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17853

Are there any spots to route additional wiring for added lighting/etc through the firewall, or do I need to drill a hole? I believe there is a grommet down behind teh brake pedal that can be pushed out or cut open to route wires through.
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In red.
 
The high idle setting (on/off) should be in the DIC settings menu.
The hood bumpers at the corners don't stay tight. I put nuts on mine to lock them in place.

Not that you will be needing high idle anytime soon but when you do, don't let it run like that for too long because you can put too much heat in the trans with the TC locked for warmup. 10-15 min maybe at zero or so.
If you're gonna sit by a job site for a long time, disable high idle.
 
orrum said:
Hey Fermanator what did u do befode u "retired" ? U sure know trucks n mechanicaning!
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I was a line tech(mechanic at a DODGE dealer) working on teh CUMMINS and I also did any tough diag that others couldn't figure out. It was odd being 20 and getting teh cars that 30 and 40 year olds couldn't figure out to fix. Made for a slightly tense work enviroment being teh young guy fixing others mistakes.

btfarm said:
The high idle setting (on/off) should be in the DIC settings menu.
The hood bumpers at the corners don't stay tight. I put nuts on mine to lock them in place.

Not that you will be needing high idle anytime soon but when you do, don't let it run like that for too long because you can put too much heat in the trans with the TC locked for warmup. 10-15 min maybe at zero or so.
If you're gonna sit by a job site for a long time, disable high idle.
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I believe only the factory high idle you need to worry about, if he wires in the PTO switch it can be left on for however long as it is meant for that.
 
If I move my hood adjusters any more out, they fall out. Can the latch be moved down? Or should I just buy longer bolts for the hood adjusters?

The reason I thought the play was in the gear box was because I could grab a hold of the steering column and rotate it the same distance of play as the steering wheel (with the motor turned off). And also the same amount of play if I was grabbing a hold of the tires and moving them. Either way I'm afraid I'm going to have to replace something. :-/
 
Engine on or off doesn't matter when it comes to play and where it's at. If you want to find teh play, get a helper. Have them rock the wheel side to side while you watch the steering linkage. I'm almost willing to bet if you watch your centerlink, it will be rocking for and aft and that will be your play. Also jacking 1 tire up at a time and moving the tire is another good way to narrow down play in the steering.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Engine on or off doesn't matter when it comes to play and where it's at. If you want to find teh play, get a helper. Have them rock the wheel side to side while you watch the steering linkage. I'm almost willing to bet if you watch your centerlink, it will be rocking for and aft and that will be your play. Also jacking 1 tire up at a time and moving the tire is another good way to narrow down play in the steering.
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Yea, each tire moves separately. The centerlink? So...it'd be a good idea to change that when/if I change the tierods, pitman, idler, etc?
 
treegump said:
Yea, each tire moves separately. The centerlink? So...it'd be a good idea to change that when/if I change the tierods, pitman, idler, etc?
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The centerlink is just a bar that connects the tie rods to the idler and pitman arm. When teh idler and pitman get worn though, it allows it to rock. And wit hthe offset centerlink design, any rocking comes out to alot of play in the wheel. The COGNITO braces are specifically designed to help brace the center link from rocking and help extend the life of teh idler and pitman arms.
 
treegump said:
Is a straight centerlink a better option than factory?

Here's a how to from duramaxforum, with references... Pacific Performance Engineering has 3 different types of straight centerlinks, all quite expensive. Any thoughts on pacific braces (vs cognito braces), crankitupdiesel centerlink & tierod sleeve, and the rest moog?
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The PPE braces are just rebadged COGNITO braces I believe. The straight centerlink is nice for sled pulling and drag racing, but for stock useage it will actually cause excess tire wear. By eliminating that dogleg in the end and making it straight, it changes the toe out on turns and causes the tires to chirp while turning. As you turn the inside tire doesn't need to move as much as the outside tire does, hence teh dogleg in the end of teh centerlink to give this geometry to make a turn with the tires chirping and wearing. The straight centerlink will cause both tires to turn the same amount and it will jerk and chirp in a hard turn because of it. Personally I would go with new MOOG parts and a set of braces.
 
Are there software upgrades for the truck?

Also, what application would I use the overdrive cancel button? And is it unwise to drive in tow/haul when empty? Because I like the downshift feature when going down hills. Is it bad to switch between these settings while driving?
 
IDK about any software upgrades. Problems? Or just in general?
OD cancel is for heavy towing. TH can be used any time but the shift points are changed quite a bit and MPGs will take a hit. You'll also see a rise in trans temp with TH in constant use but not likely in an overheat condition.
Do you have a diesel supplement book with your owner's manual? It explains alot.
 
IDK about any software upgrades. Problems? Or just in general? Just in general - Came across a forum talking about it

Do you have a diesel supplement book with your owner's manual? It explains alot. Yea, just haven't looked at it again.
 
I know my early 01' went through a ton of software updates...I had one of the first though, so I was GM's guinea pig...

I wouldn't figure with a late LLY you'd have very many software updates/Calibrations(if any)...I could be wrong though...
 
Pepperidge said:
I know my early 01' went through a ton of software updates...I had one of the first though, so I was GM's guinea pig...

I wouldn't figure with a late LLY you'd have very many software updates/Calibrations(if any)...I could be wrong though...
Click to expand...

I think they were talking 02 or 03, so you're probably right. Just thought I'd check to be on the safe side. I haven't taken my truck in about the rough idle or cd player not working because I don't feel like paying the 105 bucks an hour for either. Figured if I needed updates, than I'd just get everything taken care of in the same trip.
 
treegump said:
I think they were talking 02 or 03, so you're probably right. Just thought I'd check to be on the safe side. I haven't taken my truck in about the rough idle or cd player not working because I don't feel like paying the 105 bucks an hour for either. Figured if I needed updates, than I'd just get everything taken care of in the same trip.
Click to expand...
OK Gotcha!:thumbsup:
 
Well tonight I installed the finger stick. My check engine light wasn't on it before I installed it, but now it is. Planning on checking that tomorrow. Also, I installed the lbz mouthpiece and adjusted the hood. Also removed the side steps & turned the torsion bars up yesterda. My coworker recommended that I put the side rails on to protect the rocker panels, but I think it looks nicer now.
 
Why fingerstick it if you didnt haved any light on? I never had to stick mine. I agree on the step bars... makes the truck look taller.
 
I figured I'd do it wouldn't be an issue later... Is it possible to just unhook it and put it how it was? But with the lbz mouthpiece and blocker plate installed, wouldn't the engine check light still turn on?
 
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