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I got my first truck back…

For that weight class of truck and if still looking to splurge, a set of Rancho adjustable's might fit the role.

While at it, if there is still an excuse, might consider getting solid rotors with cryo treatment. Slots and holes to me are just less meat to grab.
 
For that weight class of truck and if still looking to splurge, a set of Rancho adjustable's might fit the role.

While at it, if there is still an excuse, might consider getting solid rotors with cryo treatment. Slots and holes to me are just less meat to grab. Not bash-in, just say-in.
 
JayTheCPA said:
For that weight class of truck and if still looking to splurge, a set of Rancho adjustable's might fit the role.

While at it, if there is still an excuse, might consider getting solid rotors with cryo treatment. Slots and holes to me are just less meat to grab. Not bash-in, just say-in.
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I hear ya on the rotors. I’m not usually a fan of these but everyone seems to like the powerstop extreme pads and rotors so these came as a set. If these don’t impress me I’ll likely replace them with regular ac delco solid rotors and pads which have always treated me well.

Interesting about the Rancho’s. I had a set on a jeep years ago that while seemed nice at first didn’t seem to last. Maybe they have improved? I seem to get 100k out of Bilsteins which keeps me happy. I’ll look into the Rancho’s again. Thanks.
 
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Got the rear pads rotors and brake lines all done. Got them bled and started on the fluids.
No real excitement on the fluid changes. For being over 1/4 million miles and not a very regimented maintenance schedule they fluids were dark as expected but nothing alarming. Got it all buttoned up and back on the trailer to drag it home. Then off to alignment this week and probably time for spark plugs, wires and o2 sensors. Then time to put some more miles on it.
 
BigDogYJ said:
I hear ya on the rotors. I’m not usually a fan of these but everyone seems to like the powerstop extreme pads and rotors so these came as a set. If these don’t impress me I’ll likely replace them with regular ac delco solid rotors and pads which have always treated me well.

Interesting about the Rancho’s. I had a set on a jeep years ago that while seemed nice at first didn’t seem to last. Maybe they have improved? I seem to get 100k out of Bilsteins which keeps me happy. I’ll look into the Rancho’s again. Thanks.
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Just make sure you get the good ACDELCO parts.
Their liw budget parts are crap.
I always used to try and use ACDELCO parts. I've since switched to Powerstop. Just because There's only one quality level.
I don’t have to worry about picking the wrong part.
 
Proper term is drilled & slotted.
The point is to not loose stopping power under heavy or extended use.
The drilled holes allow the vapor barrier to escape between the pad & rotor as well as expell the heat of the rotor faster.
The slots are designed to channel out any water that may get trapped, but more so to do a minor shave job on the pad. While this wears the pad quicker it helps eliminate the glazing - so you are giving up miles permpad for better performance.

In offroading there is a common issue of mud or sand trapping in the slots/ holes and wearing away the pads and once embedded into the pad scoring the rotor too.
 
No. Same caliper/pad. It is supposed to keep from warping rotors more because larger surface area disperses heat faster. I drive mine ne like a regular truck so better braking would be nice but after comparing the two- I didn’t see enough difference to make it worth the swap. Being inboard brakes the caliper mounts, undercarriage protection, and something else has to be replaced.

So if making the move I would just jump to 4 piston brembos and get a bigger difference.
 
Ok, phyne, drilled & slotted :p

Perhaps the effect is different in a truck. My mechanic decided to get fancy and replaced the solid rotors with drilled & slotted on my old Euro sedan (which weighed ~5K# and handled like a sports car) as he knew that I preferred not to cheap-out. Hated that move from day 1 as I got less braking force and the pedal required more pressure. I learned to live with it as while I don't like going cheap, I hate fixing things without a good enough excuse.

Mentioned that effect to the brake and suspension mechanic (different guy) when I went in for new tires and he said: "Yup."

I never repeated that move in the trucks and always stuck with cryo treatment on solid rotors along with using the best pads per recent comments in forums.

In the 3/4 ton burb, could not find a rotor that would not warp. Upgraded to 1 ton rotors which lasted longer than the 3/4 ton OE before they warped. Then I went with cryo treated 1 ton rotors. Never tried drilled and slotted as I got tired of the maintenance on that ride. Should have bought an overpriced used 3/4 ton Burb with the 6.0 gasser, but....

Not arguing, just discussing :)
 
Yeah chryo treated helps. Something else that helps is ceramic coating for heat dispersion. Not the face of rotor, but the edge and into the vents. Then after the coatings are done send of to chryo. Something on my hummer is wanting to coat the head of the cv axle (aka half shaft)that bolts to the rotor-
shed more heat = more gooder!

1. Warping comes from to thin or too low quality metal surface for the face.
2. Getting too hot which is a response of how fast can it get rid of the incoming heat
3. most common from untrained race drivers is going from high speed to a stop then sitting with the foot on brakes- like exiting freeway the. Sitting at that light the whole time and trapping the hot rotor in one location against the pads. The rest of the rotor cools and where the pads are= hot spot. So come to a stop, and find park. Another good move is after stopping, push in clutch (or N) and let it roll slightly while the heat is shedding. The first few seconds is the hottest so let that heat out first then 2-3 seconds later ease onto the pedal helps a lot.

Or we can all take the mater mist tricks from airplanes and race circuits that spray water on too cool them better!
 
on the 4runner we had (2004 sport edition) the rear rotors had always been warped. I had done a brake job on it replacing them and within about 2-3 months they warped again. rears on most modern vehicles are always thinner and don't have any inner vents or webbing. new I think they are only about a 3/8" thick solid steel disk. not much meat back there to help with heat dissipation.
 
BigDogYJ said:
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Got the rear pads rotors and brake lines all done. Got them bled and started on the fluids.
No real excitement on the fluid changes. For being over 1/4 million miles and not a very regimented maintenance schedule they fluids were dark as expected but nothing alarming. Got it all buttoned up and back on the trailer to drag it home. Then off to alignment this week and probably time for spark plugs, wires and o2 sensors. Then time to put some more miles on it.
Click to expand...
I have been very happy with power stop drilled and slotted on my 00 Z-71 and 07 Burb
 
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