bigchevy89
New Member
what are you gonna do for the upper plenum as my did not line up correctly.
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
HX40II Turbo Install
- Thread starter racedaymechanic
- Start date
racedaymechanic
Active Member
bigchevy89
New Member
ok mine was about a half inch off what is the diffrence?
racedaymechanic
Active Member
was yours a 40 or 40II?
bigchevy89
New Member
iam pretty sure the the compressor housing says 40II ill check tommorow
racedaymechanic
Active Member
10/4 the housing rotates so you can put the outlet wherever you want
bigchevy89
New Member
the compressor housing was to far forward to line up with my plenum about half inch toward the front of the motor
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
I too would be interested in that down pipe adapter you made. I have a WH1C, which is the equivalent to HX-35. I already bought the fitting for the oil line, just need to plumb the exhaust and intake.
littleboy
Can't quit now
Could this be a difference in the quality off the chinese manufacturing? Since the chinese stuff isn't noted for it's perfection....
btfarm
America First!
Nice work as usual Bruce.
racedaymechanic
Active Member
Heres a teaser pic I just got it all buttoned up took it for about a 5mile test drive, after I got it warmed up I spooled it up alittle so far Im impressed, it spools up everybit as quick as the GM8, and egts were 200+ degrees lower and it has a nice whistle, here ya go
Here is the downpipe and turbo bolted up
Here is the downpipe and turbo bolted up
great white
Well-Known Member
Very nice looking.
Except for the bent fender lip and bright colors, it looks like it could have come that way factory.
I like the use of the "T" clamps.
The down pipe pic makes it look like there is a bit more room to work the radius a little bit more gently. But that might just be the angle...
What were your boost levels like at this 200f lower?
Comparable to a gm8? Higher? Lower?
Except for the bent fender lip and bright colors, it looks like it could have come that way factory.
I like the use of the "T" clamps.
The down pipe pic makes it look like there is a bit more room to work the radius a little bit more gently. But that might just be the angle...
What were your boost levels like at this 200f lower?
Comparable to a gm8? Higher? Lower?
racedaymechanic
Active Member
I spun the rod 4 turns to make sure the boost wasn't too high out of the gate, it peaked at 15 psi 850 F, WOT thats just about where the 8 is close to 1100 at 15 psi WOT
great white
Well-Known Member
Really.
Now I'm much more interested in your results (egt, black smoke, boost levels, etc) when you put this through a "test loop".
I also think you should start thinking about a price for an "install kit"...
racedaymechanic
Active Member
Really.
Now I'm much more interested in your results (egt, black smoke, boost levels, etc) when you put this through a "test loop".
I also think you should start thinking about a price for an "install kit"...
Exactly, thats what this is all about, im gonna put a couple hundred miles on it before I really push it, If it all goes good then I will push forward with the Kit
great white
Well-Known Member
I volunteer for field testing prototypes.
I'd have to scratch up the coin for a turbo first though....
racedaymechanic
Active Member
Is the older 6.5s exhaust manifold different? or the upper plenum? The turbo is pretty well built from what I can tell No way there would be more than a few thousands difference in any of them
racedaymechanic
Active Member
It would be tough to bend the Raw pipe much tighter radius than it is, and if you come out much further it makes a bad angle on the Downpipe connector, Really all you would have to do is massage the inner fender with a BFH and drop the battery box 1/4 inch and the battery would clear the fender lip, My truck is the Mule for testing all my hair brained schemes, all you guys can learn from my F--K ups and not make them yourself
Crankme69
New Member
Very nice, thanks for sharing with us
L98TPI
New Member
Most of the time tight bends like this outlet are made in two halves and welded together (if the volume is not enough to justify a casting). Motorcycle mufflers and expansion chambers are made this way. Old school is a technique of hammering the metal into a wood mold. Two molds actually a right and left half.