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Hungry IP Feed it!

Just an FYI I stock the viton FFM orings the set is $4.00 and the Stanadyne FFM filter (metal top) $25.

(This info apply to Wix and Auto Zone filters)You have to look at the sealing oring of the FFM filter EVERYTIME! just before installing it. The little metal ring that Pruittx2 posted pictures above constantly falls out when the filter is loose. It looks like the Stanadyne filter is different and has the ring built in??
I like the reuse of the FFM in a FTB mod. It keeps your heater and WIF sensor too. I built an extesion cable and mounted mine remote so the fuel does not run all over the back of the engine!! that was a stupid design. It probaly wont hurt anything, but I just don't like it especialy on a newly painted engine or trans rebuild.
 
I have the Walking J's version 2 FTB kit and I'm planning to do it this weekend. I like to replace the fuel hose from the LP to the FFM. Does anyone know what's size hose or the ID of that hose is? How long is that hose so I can buy a new one? Also, what size ID hose is the FFM to the T valve hose too? I also like to replace that hose as well.

Thank you.
 
The fuel line from the FFM to the T-valve is 1/4", and with the FTB kit you must have about 2ft of 3/8" line for that from FFM to IP. So just have like 3' of 1/4" fuel line on hand and new clamps if you need them.

From the FF back to lift pump, is a small 6-8in piece, then it goes to metal,, down the tranny tunnel to the LP.
 
Pillow said:
Good to know!



... Perhaps I am missing something here, but it seems that you have semi-contradicted yourself in logic. Why do you think 30 GPH is too little? How much volume is the Walbro pump pushing? How much fuel gets bypassed back to the tank?

I'm not trying to be smart, but I would *think* 30 gph would be overkill.
Click to expand...
30 gph is double the stock ffm flow not sure why he is saying its too small :hitwithrock: I guess
 
Sorry guys did not mean to comment & run but got overcome by events @ work, so my 1st opportunity to get back to the post.

The stock lift pump delivery for a healthy lift pump is around 28gph so while a 30 gph filter element is over that I looked at charts for flow restriction over time and once plugging occurs from collected dirt the flow rate really starts to decrease.

My FRB5 lift pump is a 45 gph rated flow, same thing when I looked at the Racor 445/645 (45 gph) filter once it started collecting dirt impediment to flow after starting to accumulate dirt across the filter media was significant, so I opted for the largest physical element I could fit under my truck. That was the 460/660 element (BTW 4 vs. 6 is non primer bulb/primer bulb on filter head), a 230 Racor is adequate but IMO I prefer to allow filter to filter as long as it can without restricting flow the 60 gph filter did a better job in that regard in my opinion.

In addition to that I have the ability to run in parallel both my original 28gph pump, and my 45 gph pump at same time so that if one or other of the pump becomes weak the other can be put into service to assist the other one, I normally run the stock lift only, and the Walbro if pulling heavy, and both if pulling really heavy to maintain 5+ psi to the IP at all times.

So with rare exception of the times I'm running both lifts, flow wasn't my prime consideration when clean, but was primarily the ability to handle more dirt longer in the primary filtration so the on engine filter is only dealing with the smaller particles and lasting longer.
 
I was looking to FTB but I'm not so sure it's for my mechanical IP? It looks like the pump itself has to come apart to drill the flared inlet to a larger diameter hole to do any good. Is this FTB mostly for the electronic IP?
 
No,, it's not as much the IP as it is the fuel line size out of the Fuel Filter Manager, to the IP. Look over the mod' pics in the on the first page, to see the images of the mod.

Factory line to IP is 1/4 in,, and this mod bumps it up to the same size line as the input side of the filter Manager.
 
I seen the pics but they don't show the mechanical pump. If the mod is done and nothing is done to my mechanical IP then it will still have a 1/4" tunnel to travel thru. I don't have access to a 7.3 nose cone but I reckon that I can easily pull my nose and drill it. To the best of my knowledge the nose cone just has a lock on it to keep it from getting loose. I think pulling it is pretty point blank?
 
The cone on the mech IPs is some Hard stuff. Harrrd stuff to drill.. I ended up using a carbide end mill..
 
I'm drilling my FFM today, does anyone have an actual measurement as to the depth to drill. I'm now at 20mm deep and have measured a total depth available of 26.2mm and it looks like there's still a small piece of the outlet tube in there. Anyone? I'm assuming that the complete outlet tube has to be removed or else the mod is for not.
 
20 mm is deep enough,drill the last bit out with a 3/8" or slightly larger drill bit.
When i did mine i clamped the FM with the old hose barb in the vice and tapped the Bowl off it with the hammer,..it's not that tight in there and came out without issues.
To late for you though.
 
thanks bison, that occurred to me prior to starting the drilling process and sounds like the ideal way - I'll remove the piece of tube with an easy out after I drill to the final ID before tapping.
 
Pruittx2 said:
I think this tread is effectively making some huge deal out of what is really 30 minutes of easy work.

Hmm,,, didn't really care for that.


My whole point of being here at the TS. Is to be helpful and respectful to others, as they have been for me. This is what happened to ME. This mod for some reason seem more daunting the it actually was. Having never been back there at all,,, and IF I had to do it again today,,, I'd dive right in and knock it out in 30-40 mins also. Call it fear of the unknown. or 2 little kids running around and no other vehicle to drive, being broke as hell or what ever.
Sure I Made some mistakes along the way, like the first time I did anything. But I was willing to take pics, and describe what I went thru, so Others could just go ahead and do it. I had the stuff,, New it need lines anyway, SO I did it. now when the New chip gets, here, I won't have to worry bout the fuel.
Click to expand...

Well I'm appreciative of the post. I gave my '95 to my son when I bought my '99 in January 2010 and then got him a FTB kit to go with it. It never got installed and now the wreck of the '95 is in my backyard. I will intall the FTB on my '99 as I'm experiencing fuel leaks from the FFM. Need all the O rings and stuff. Just been using the truck a lot and did not want it down.
 
plrod said:
thanks bison, that occurred to me prior to starting the drilling process and sounds like the ideal way - I'll remove the piece of tube with an easy out after I drill to the final ID before tapping.
Click to expand...
Using an easy out will prob just wedge the thin walled piece tighter in the hole,..just drilling will take care of it.
 
OA Depth of FFM outlet port

Pic 2 is what was left at the bottom of the port, a small piece of the tube which came out by hand with an easy out, it was spinning around in there when I was drilling and had started to scratch the tube.FFM 2.jpgFWIW it's 26.5mm OA depth to the tube and IMO if you don't or haven't drilled all the way to the end of the port, even if you got close, you will not accomplish the desired result unless the entire port is enlarged. The flow rate will be limited by the smallest ID in the system. Pic 1 shows the entire port bored out and you can see where the 1/8" tube stub scratched the back tube. Going to get out the edge filings at the bottom now.

Sorry if this is redundant but I could not find this info anywhere.
 

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