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Huge problems :( Engine maybe

Update

Active Codes

PO 251 Inj Pump 'A' Rotor Cam Problem (Proved this False with followup test)

PO 266 Cylinder 2 Blance Fault

PO 281 Cylinder 7 Balance Fault (This is the Cylinder that idle DIDN't Change when cracking, THUS, problem Cylinder)

PO 370 Timing Detect High Res Problem

PO 1216 Fuel Solonoid Response TIme Too Short

Those are the codes.

Cracking cylinder 2 injector, Idle got worse. Cracking cylinder 7 injector Idle Stayed Constant skipping rough

Swapped 5 and 7 Injectors.

No Change :( Was hoping for change.

Garage I was at didn't have Diesel Compresssion tester, my mechanic (buddy of mine) was going to borrow one tonight. But I bought one at Harbor Freght foer $26.00 Diesel Compression Tester with GM/Ford/Dodge fittings. Great deal

Tomorrow morning will test cylinder. I don't think there is compression.

When the truck is idling, I can hear a 'spfffft' sound. Its sounds like the compression is sqeezing out of somewhere other than it should be. We will see what the Results are. My money is at 0 at this point.

To be prepared for tomorrow, what should be tried next? Remove valve cover and see what top looks like, and make sure the connecting rods are still intact?

When cracking fuel on cylinder 7, some did come out of the line, so I know fuel is in therem, besides the obnoxious cloud of unburnt raw diesel is double conformation. It must not have compression or it would be firing that fuel.

There was no change swapping injector with cyl 5, which has proven to be good.

Still no sign of ANYTHING in my engine oil, No diesel fuel, not overfilled, and defanately no antifreeze. Oil looks/smells its normal self.

Coolent level remeains the same.

Oil Level remains the same.

So Now, assuming compression fails on cylinder 7, perhaps a valve is stuck/broke and allowing no compression? Perhaps its coming back into the precup?

I know need to verify no compression, and will so tomorrow, but if Compression was there, i probably wouldnn't have a problem now as I verified injector good, and I know fuel is getting in there, because my eyes are still bleeding from driving like that.

Thanks again for all your help guys, and I knew exactly what to test at the garage, once again all thanks to you guys. Even knowing Harbor Frieght had a diesel compressiion tester, not only cheap, but available, as other places didn't, thanks to you guys. Chrisk1500 comes to mind, not sure if he mentioned it or not, but goes to show reading/contributing to these forums even when not having a problem helps you 10x over when you do.
 
If you have a bad injector, all you did was swap the problem to a different cylinder. If you crack the line on #5 now, is there a change in idle? if not then you moved the problem from 7 to5. Just trying to eliminate the possibility of a $40 fix before you start ripping into the engine. Check the compression on 7 and if good, replace that injector, if not never mind and proceed with the valve check
 
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Only places for compression to escape are through open valves, glow plug hole, injector hole, hole in a piston, or a decent sized crack in the head or block....

As you already know, verify compression....
 
Well, compression can escape through the cylinder wall if theres canyons in it. from fuel cleaning all the lube off.

Also check your blow-by, just for verification. Get the truck warm and open up your oil fill cap and see if there is a geyser of vapor, blue or maybe just white/clearish. A lot of blow-by is bad. Everyone, most everyone has some, puffs of vapor, but if its a constant geyser theres another clue.
 
I went through the exact trouble with my dads blazer. It was a broken valve spring, lifter, and a bent pushrod.

It happened under power, too.
 
I have the tester in hand, going to test it right now.

I have ZERO fumes coming out of the oil fill, also no cross contamination of fluid's of any sort.

Oil is oil, and isn't mixed or smell diesel. No antifreeze in it.

IF my block was cracked woulnd't some fluid contamination occur for sure?

One step at a time, lets verify this dead cylinder compression.

To respond to a reply a few up,

Problem did not change to cylinder 5 with injector. Problem is isolated at cyl 7.

Going to check compression, then if none, proceed to removing valve cover.
 
I have the tester in hand, going to test it right now.

I have ZERO fumes coming out of the oil fill, also no cross contamination of fluid's of any sort.

Oil is oil, and isn't mixed or smell diesel. No antifreeze in it.

IF my block was cracked woulnd't some fluid contamination occur for sure?

One step at a time, lets verify this dead cylinder compression one for another.

To respond to a reply a few up,

Problem did not change to cylinder 5 with injector. Problem is isolated at cyl 7.

Going to check compression, then if none, proceed to removing valve cover.
 
broken valve spring....i bet thats it...

The guy working on it verified that it is a valve problem. Stuck. Losing compression through the valve.

He is going to take the head off to see whats inside.

This goes past my knowledge of engines, what does that entail to fix?
 
Stuck valve? That's possible but a little odd, may have broken a valve spring and "dropped" it a little under load/rpm thus bending the valve head. Or something is holding it open, or it's "burned" a spot in the face/seat. Best case new valve/spring/pushrod, worst case replace head/piston and check the cylinder wall for damage. Only tearing the head off will tell the story though.
Don
 
The guy working on it verified that it is a valve problem. Stuck. Losing compression through the valve.

He is going to take the head off to see whats inside.

This goes past my knowledge of engines, what does that entail to fix?

I thought you were working on it :D

Might as well pull the other head and put in new felpro headgaskets. Maybe valve job and new valve springs on both heads.
 
I thought you were working on it :D

Might as well pull the other head and put in new felpro headgaskets. Maybe valve job and new valve springs on both heads.

I was but I pulled it out of the garage i was working on it, they wanted nothing to do with engine internal, and said it would cost me a fortune.

I brought it to another friends house who kind of works on the side outta the garage. I'm not set up for winter work at my current location.

Anyhow. I have ZERO time for this to be down. I need minimal fastest repair. So, i'm not touching the other head. Everyday this truck is down is costing me hundreds and cancelling scheduled jobs.
 
Stuck valve? That's possible but a little odd, may have broken a valve spring and "dropped" it a little under load/rpm thus bending the valve head. Or something is holding it open, or it's "burned" a spot in the face/seat. Best case new valve/spring/pushrod, worst case replace head/piston and check the cylinder wall for damage. Only tearing the head off will tell the story though.
Don

Ok. Pulling the head, and going to inspect all for damage.
 
Thats a nice truck, to bad about your problems. It seems low milage to have something like this happen.

Did you notice bubbles in the radiator or bubbles blowing into the coolant tank? A bad head gasket would cause a soft radiator hose and low compression.

Im putting head gaskets on my jimmy now. It lost compression on one cylinder and wouldnt run on it and was blowing bubbles into the coolant tank. Its a gas engine not diesel but a diesel would loose a cylinder if it lost compression from a bad head gasket.
 
So if the exhaust valve is stuck open, the piston would just push the sprayed fuel out the exhaust port and causing the smoke and odor in the tailpipe? Or maybe no air to complete the combustion?
 
Thats a nice truck, to bad about your problems. It seems low milage to have something like this happen.

Did you notice bubbles in the radiator or bubbles blowing into the coolant tank? A bad head gasket would cause a soft radiator hose and low compression.

I did not notice bubbles, didn't look really hard for them actually, Intersting enough, i did grab that upper radiator hose and it did seem kindof soft.
 
I'd be curious if one of your glow plugs might have snapped off and wedged. At least that was my fear before I upgraded my originals. It wouldn't take much to pull them and look.
 
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