Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Also of note, when truck was hot, upper rad hose was not firm.
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Huge problems :( Engine maybe
- Thread starter Matt Bachand
- Start date
ghitch75
livin' in the sticks
napa will have it all....my napa is in a 4500 pol.town and they have injector's and return hose...
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Napa sells Quality 6.5 injectors?
ghitch75
livin' in the sticks
Bosch
Dave Barbieri
Member
The last time I ran into a stuck injector was on a Jetta turbodiesel. The knock was loud enuff to make me think a rod was about to come out the pan. Scared the crap outta me! You mentioned that the engine idles like it's running on only 7 cylinders. You also mention that time (and $$) are short. If you don't have immediate access to a scanner, consider this: One at a time, try cracking each injector fitting loose at the injector. You'll know when it's loose enuff, because fuel will start spurting out between the fitting nut and the injector. The engine will also start to idle even rougher. Wait a couple of seconds, then retighten the fitting and move to the next injector. When you find the affected cylinder, the idle won't change and the 'knock' will go away.
Your only outlay here is one wrench and about 40 minutes of your time. This will save some serious dollars (and hours!) changing injectors that still have some usable life left.
Your only outlay here is one wrench and about 40 minutes of your time. This will save some serious dollars (and hours!) changing injectors that still have some usable life left.
- Staff
- #26
I'm not sure that will work, Dave. Reason why, in this case, it sounds like the injector is stuck open; removing fuel pressure on a normal injector will stop it from popping open, but in this case, the thing is already flowing.
What you may find is, when the OTHER 7 injector lines are cracked, that the miss will double... on the bad one, you probably won't see any difference at all.
If you get lucky, the bad one is on the driver's side and you can change it yourself in under 10 minutes, just like changing spark plugs. If it's on the passenger side, you're in for a bit more work. PM Chrisk1500 for advice on how to do it without removing turbo.
BTW - you should change your oil immediately after you fix this... as this injector keeps leaking into that cylinder, you will be getting diesel fuel in your oil, which ain't good for your bearings.
What you may find is, when the OTHER 7 injector lines are cracked, that the miss will double... on the bad one, you probably won't see any difference at all.
If you get lucky, the bad one is on the driver's side and you can change it yourself in under 10 minutes, just like changing spark plugs. If it's on the passenger side, you're in for a bit more work. PM Chrisk1500 for advice on how to do it without removing turbo.
BTW - you should change your oil immediately after you fix this... as this injector keeps leaking into that cylinder, you will be getting diesel fuel in your oil, which ain't good for your bearings.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Go for the Re-Man's? or new for twice the cost?
- Staff
- #28
If you're just changing one, Matt, I'd go with the reman.
Then if you decide to do them all later, you will get all new ones and have one reman for a spare.
Then if you decide to do them all later, you will get all new ones and have one reman for a spare.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
This is very true.
Mine are all rusty looking and I am foreign to actual injector work. I'm scared to mess with what I don't know. Can you talk me through 'crack' ing them? With a socket?
NVW
Well-Known Member
You'll need a wrench Matt, not a socket. I don't remember what size.
ghitch75
livin' in the sticks
3/4" wrench will take the lines loose...
- Staff
- #32
No socket, amigo... you need 2 open ends... one for the injector body (it's cut square, so you can get a grip on it) and one for the flange nut on the line. Sorry, can't remember the size and it's too friggin cold out to go look.
With the engine idling, hold the injector steady with the wrench on the body, then loosen the nut on the line... diesel fuel should start to seep out as it gets loose... if it does, then the miss should double, because there won't be enough pressure inside that line to pop the injector open. Tighten it back up and the miss should disappear; move to the next injector and start again.
Come to think of it, if you find the bad one, you'll really have to loosen it before the fuel will start to seep, because if it's stuck open, the fuel can escape there easier than through the slightly opened fitting.
Anyway, try it out on the driver's side and get back to us... should take less than a half-hour.
With the engine idling, hold the injector steady with the wrench on the body, then loosen the nut on the line... diesel fuel should start to seep out as it gets loose... if it does, then the miss should double, because there won't be enough pressure inside that line to pop the injector open. Tighten it back up and the miss should disappear; move to the next injector and start again.
Come to think of it, if you find the bad one, you'll really have to loosen it before the fuel will start to seep, because if it's stuck open, the fuel can escape there easier than through the slightly opened fitting.
Anyway, try it out on the driver's side and get back to us... should take less than a half-hour.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Damn cold here too and storm after storm afrter storm... I will be able to do 6 easily this way. Will report come morning.
- Staff
- #34
oh Matt - wear safety glasses or protective eyewear, OK? The stuff is under a lot of pressure!
buddy
Active Member
yes, high pressure. If your friends have access to a GM shop that has the scanner then that would be easier. Make sure not to take the fuel line all the way off if they are all rusty, dont want to get anything in the injectors and foul them. The scanner can just shut any cylider off, its really nice, I have the software on my laptop to do it.
Injector change is really simple on driver side, maybe 15 minutes, but you got to be clean, clean off as much dirt and rust off the area before taking it all apart.
Injector change is really simple on driver side, maybe 15 minutes, but you got to be clean, clean off as much dirt and rust off the area before taking it all apart.
RadioMan
Recruit
You just need to crack them open, NOT take them off. About 1 (maybe 2) flats worth of turning the flange nut is enough. Once fuel starts leaking out (not spraying out) you've turned it enough.
Dave Barbieri
Member
Thanks Jim! Much better description. :thumbsup::thumbsup: A bad cylinder will show no change in the idle as you loosen the fitting. A good cylinder will make the idle worse as it drops out.
Right. IIRC the wrench for the injector body is 1 1/16". Been a while since I changed mine, so I could be off a bit. The injector is torqued to 48 lb/ft, which is kinda tight. This means you can usually loosen the injector line fitting and never disturb the injector itself. That's been my experience with VW's, Ford 6.9's and my 6.5.
Good advice! Since the fuel is under pressure, it'll spray outwards, washing away any rust, dust, etc with it. As Jim pointed out, the bad one won't spray much, but since it's already bad, you're not concerned if anything gets into the top of the injector - it's getting replaced anyway. Even so, spraying the area down with carb or brake cleaner will wash away most of the dirt/grease/grime/etc and leave you with a clean shot at working on the injectors. Lacking that. compressed air works pretty well.
1994ch
Well-Known Member
- Staff
- #40
Those are to remove the injector. He's looking for a wrench to hold the injector still while he loosens the line nut...
Just use a crescent wrench, Matt.. it's on the square centre in between the rubber hoses (return lines). Be careful not to put any pressure on the return lines, as you can break off those nipples.
Just use a crescent wrench, Matt.. it's on the square centre in between the rubber hoses (return lines). Be careful not to put any pressure on the return lines, as you can break off those nipples.