How to replace the fuel cutoff solenoid in a DB2

[dbrannon79]

Hey guys, continuing on my 93 trying to restore it to as much as I can "Unmolested" stock setup. I need some help with the IP. the PO had installed a military IP that is 24v for the fuel shutoff solenoid. I have a 6.2 on the stand which has a DB2 of unknown condition. At some point I would like to test it and see if it's a good spare, but for now I want to get rid of the remote solenoid the PO installed on the return line for the 93 truck.

I am planning on pulling the intake to install a factory TPS for the TCI TCU and remove the cable driven TPS for it, so I might as well get this swap done at the same time.

the goal here is to return this 93 to as close to stock configuration as possible to in my mind make it last. these things include getting the factory fuel shutoff to work as it should, and checking to make sure the fuel screw is adjusted correctly. I also need help with that too.

So I guess my question is in two parts here. 1. how to swap the fuel solenoid in the IP so it will work. and 2. how can I check the fuel adjustment to see if it's been messed with since I was told it had a bigger turbo installed at one time.

I will move on to the turbo after this. it has a GM8 installed and the waste gate has been wire tied closed. I have a genuine turbo master I was given with the truck, and also on the 6.2 I have a GM3 (i think) turbo which has the factory non-vacuum waste gate actuator. not sure which I should use, but was wanting a similar setup like I have tuned my 95 where I won't have high boost pressures while cruising on the freeway. (No I don't need a bigger turbo with how I drive)

 

[Will L.]

So what I hear you saying is: you need to put on an 88 mm turbo.
haha. Ok, not all military db2 had tps mounts. Look for them and clean and teat the thread holes first.
Ya need the top plate and solenoid inside for making it 12v, probably why the po just added an external one. Not crazy hard to do, just gotta buy the parts.
I would check with @Rockabillyrat to see if he has source.

Not sure if you can properly set the fuel screw without it being on a bench. You can guess at it. Too much fuel means smoke puff from the red light take off.
That amount is gonna alter with injector replacements, turbo replacements and boost setting. So do the other stuff first. Finish with how far to cut back the smoke show.

You might consider just getting the other pump rebuilt to stock specs and swap rather than goof with this one.

 

[Glagulator]

Do you have the mil IP model number? DB2831-????
And the 6.2 IP number?
The 6.2 top and solenoids should work, easy swap.
Some mil IP's use the normal TPS and some use the military TPS.
Either TPS will work but are not interchangeable.
The mil TPS usually costs much less than the civilian part.

 

[Rockabillyrat]

The 24v and 12v use a different top cover. So your best bet is to get a 12v cover and solenoids and swap it on. Its easy to change, just make sure you get the shut off solenoid linkage in front of the tab on the governor linkage, other wise it will run away. A easy way to tell if you have it on correctly is to put it on with no bolts when you slide it to align the bolt holes let go and it should spring back the other way.

As far as the fuel screw. There is no way to tell if its been moved without putting it on a bench.

 

[dbrannon79]

So should I swap the top covers on the two IP's or leave the 93 as is with the remote solenoid then?

on the TPS. the IP on the 93 has the screws in the holes along with I can see the slotted shaft sticking out that would grab and turn the TPS. I have a TPS in the parts pile I was given with the truck. I will dig it out and see what part number is on it.

I need to go buy another inspection mirror and get the numbers on both IP's but will try to do this tonight and report back on the numbers.

Thanks guys

 

[Rockabillyrat]

Swap the entire top cover over. If its a 24v cover it will have an extra connector for the HPCA solenoid. Its easy to tell the difference.

12v has spadeelectrical connectors. 24v has round electrical connectors

 

[dbrannon79]

Swap the entire top cover over. If its a 24v cover it will have an extra connector for the HPCA solenoid. Its easy to tell the difference.

12v has spadeelectrical connectors. 24v has round electrical connectors

there is a spade connector on the right hand rear of the top cover. where is the round connectors? I did notice two what looks like #8 studs with nuts on them at about the center of the top cover. I'm assuming it's 24v since the PO said he had to use that external solenoid on the return line and mentioned Military IP. I also found a different looking throttle shaft for an IP in the slew of parts he gave me. this IP has the slotted area for the TPS. I wonder if he swapped things out already but couldn't make it work correctly.

I need to google some pics to know the difference

 

[Glagulator]

 

[dbrannon79]

ok mine looks like the 12v one with the spade on the side of the top cover, but it's missing the spade shown on the top side. there are just a small stud and nut there (two, one on both sides of the return line fitting). I wonder if this IP has been pieced together to make work.

 

[Glagulator]

Does the TPS drive look like this?

 

[dbrannon79]

Somewhat. it looks like the shaft has the very tip of a flat blade screw driver sticking out on the end. If that is what you are asking.

 

[Glagulator]

That is for military type TPS. There are only 2 types used on these IP's.
You can either find a pigtail and splice it into the OEM TPS conn. wires,
Or make an adapter harness like this.
Can't imagine what they did with the FSO and top.
Post photos when you get it off.

 

[dbrannon79]

I will post some pics. might not get to work on it until this Thursday when I'm off work. I will also check to see which TPS is there in the slew of parts. not sure which one but I do remember seeing one there.

 

[Will L.]

@Glagulator why the top and external fso:
Easy. They replaced a bad ip with military auction one wether on an engine or as lone part.
New military db2 can be had less than half of new from parts store. $40 for the external one and you are driving.

 

[dbrannon79]

I managed to snap a couple of pics on the tops of both IP's the first two is the military one that's on the 93. the last one is the IP that's on the 6.2 which I was told ran but don't know anything about.

curiosity has me though. I have not pulled and looked at the TPS sensor I have, but in guessing that it's a GM one and not a military, if I were to attempt swapping out the throttle shafts so that the IP on the truck will accept the GM TPS. how much of a pain is doing this?

 

[Glagulator]

You sure could swap shafts but I always just get the milt. TPS, much easier.
Start watching at 17:30 min for the procedure-

 

[dbrannon79]

Finally got a chance to watch the video. that looks intimidating to attempt. especially on two pumps swapping parts! I might just leave that part alone and take your advice getting a military TPS. I think I will just maybe swap out the solenoids, not sure. if the internal solenoid does the same thing (stops the return fuel flow) I might just leave it as is. For now I can look at building an actual bracket to hold the cable driven TPS and call it a day!

 

[Will L.]

Yes the solenoid does the same thing. If you ever have a solenoid fail and the engine won’t turn off- you just pinch the 1/4” hose.
The only reason to replace the external one the po installed is you are trying to get everything original. That is how I used to shut off my hot rod pump that was 6,000 rpm pump. My governor was custom made and didn’t have room for the solenoid inside. I just mounted mine a little fancier.

If you expect to replace that ip anyways- then don’t bother with the added cost and labor imo. If the transmission is shifting good- leave the tps for later also.

I am guessing there is other places money spent will have better impact.

 

[dbrannon79]

Yep. the trans is shifting good now and I was mainly looking to get what I could back to original. BTW what is the average cost on these military IP's I was thinking later down the road about having the IP on the 6.2 checked out and rebuild if needed. but if the military ones are cheaper...

I need to go through the rest of the truck and get is reliable for the road. both upper ball joints are shot, I'm sure lowers are too. needs tires and I don't want to be tearing up tires or have a catastrophe strike on the road. I need to get my 95 into a shop to look at it's steering so I would like to have this one ready to be a daily driver while it's down. If anything, after some suspension repairs, I can swap wheels and tires between the two trucks till I'm ready to break my wallet on another set of tires.

 

[Will L.]

Pricing on nos military pumps are all over the place. See as low as $250 and high as $1800 for some crack smoking reason. Probably average $550-600. But then you still have to buy the 12v stuff.

I say- drive one truck and fix the other. On the truck you’re driving- if it aint broke don’t fix it. Just work it. All money and effort into one until it’s ready.
Otherwise it’s one stripped bolt from two broken down trucks.