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How NOT To Fix A Broken Water Pump Bolt-Ugly

CORVAIRWILD

CORVAIRWILD

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In Arizona, buying another diesel Suburban
The bolt snapped, it was rusted 3/4 the way thru, so nothing I could have done differently. S I drilled the broken bolt, and drilled and DRILLED and D R I L L E D then broke a tap in the block, and extracted it w a special tool, and here's the damage
 

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That is one funny doctor there. Definitely the best way to deal with an aggravating situation.

Leroy you made me watch that half of the video four times before I saw your last post.

A new sleeve solves the problem of compression, but I believe there should be some cast-iron against that sleeve where now little 3/8" hole. If you're going to put a sleeve in it, I would consider using a Hi nickel rod like ni99, Install a brass bolt from the water pump side to the correct length then weld the block reaching in from the inside of the cylinder (since you're going to be putting a new sleeve in there anyways) to fill the gap. Remember to do the cold will trick where you put a bare finger about 1 inch to an inch and a half away from where you're welding it so you can feel the heat of the metal. When it gets hot enough you can't keep your finger on the metal stop and let it cool down. That will keep your temperature at around the 140* mark. If the welding is not an option I would at least try some of that magic JB Weld rod in a couple tubes. If the coolant hits the backside of that sleeve it's just going to boil instantly causing overheating much like a crack in the block.
 
Why not a Time Sert? Google 'em they also make what they call a Big Sert (oversized outside diameter) you could repair this hole in chassis. You'd likely have to remove the fan shroud and maybe the radiator to give yourself enough room in there to work. Beats a replacement engine.

The thread pitch is 10mm 1.25 I believe.

J
 
problem isn't threads for the water pump bolt. It's that he drilled to deep, into the cylinder. An easy mistake drilling out that bolt.
 
Well looks like Mr C now has his winter garage project, rebuilding a 6.5. If you had the motor out and disassembled, I suppose you could weld and redrill and rethread the hole, don't know if you could rebore the cylinder. Or get a replacement block
 
A bit late now but whenever you are trying to remove a broken bolt by drilling for an easy out, use a left hand drill bit. Most times the bolt backs out with the drill when it gets a good bite.

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
There are easier ways to inspect the rings...

Reminds me of a worm clamp I was missing for a week. Found it stuck in a valve and the rest impacted in a piston...

Probably cheaper to get a used 6.2 military take out for a shortblock.
 
"Doc" You have my best wishes for success. Your learning curve seems to be about as steep as mine but your attitude is much better than mine would be.
Like Big-T said, it makes me feel better about my learning experiences.
FWIW, I wouldn't try heli-coil for that. Just saying.
 
Always enjoyed CW's self narrated adventures on yoootoobe. Wish I was a little more forward like that. And had a better attitude haha. Somedays after I chew through the leather straps I think, 'now what?' lol. Should I piss or go blind? :hihi:
 
Broke an exhaust manifold bolt on a 350 gasser one time. When I drilled it out I hit water... drilled into the coolant passage inside the head. Put some liquid teflon on the new bolt and let her eat. Weeped a little coolant from time to time but otherwise ok. This looks to be a different situation. I did not see the rings the first time I looked at this thread. That sucks.... what a bummer.
 
Will L. said:
problem isn't threads for the water pump bolt. It's that he drilled to deep, into the cylinder. An easy mistake drilling out that bolt.
Click to expand...

Oh, I didn't understand that from the description. Oops, bad deal! Yeah needs a cylinder sleeve for sure.
 
I FIGURED IT OUT, disconnect the bad cylinder and another (number 3 maybe?) and you'll have one of them fuel efficient diesels
 
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