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How NOT To Fix A Broken Water Pump Bolt-Ugly

Gee i think a GM seal tab will fit right in there!! LOL
Anyway that sucks!! Wondering though if i cant be plugged up with brass. My uncle fixed a bullet hole on a Willis in WW2 that still runs. Different animal i suspect. If you remove the head, pan and unbolt the connecting rod and get the piston out without changing the crank orientation you could die a brass bolt that tap threads all the way through and then grind it just a micron below flush in the cylinder. Then drill out for the pump cover bolt into the brass plug. If you use JB magic for a thread sealer it won't ever leak or blow out. Cheapest way for what otherwise is a paper wieght so worth a try. What are the psi figs on combustion stroke??
 
When fuel explodes its gunna be alot higher.
We just bought a good block for $50 Sunday. I'd look for a good deal and replace the block.
 
So, after reading your post and about your misery only to experience the same bolt failure on my 1995 3500HD Rollback truck I newly acquired that's a disaster I'm straitening out.

First was two broke off bolts in the passenger's side cylinder head front that hold on the accessory bracket.

Then I noticed while I had stuff apart up front (accessories off the front to fix other bolts) that the waterpump was leaking where it mounted to the timing cover (not the weep hole).

Decided better safe than sorry and the pump had a lot of bearing play. So I pulled the alternator, Hydraulic pump, power steering pump off and went to remove the bolts and snap One broke off in the block like what happened beginning in this thread.

Why did it break? Previous owner/mechanic didn't seal the pump correctly, they used clear RTV, yeah bathroom silicone. allowed coolant to migrate into the bolt holes, and yes, into the oil as well.

Anyways, got to remove the pump, and timing cover. I pulled the injection pump and intake as well as it's getting swapped as well.

So, the fix. as my technique was getting better as I'd already successfully removed two broke bolts from a head on this engine, I used the same procedure in welding to get this one out.

Used a flux-core wire welder, just weld a little on the stud to build it up. Then use some vice grips to hold a 3/8-16 nut then weld the inside of the nut till red hot. As soon as it cools down to not glowing, got the 9/16 socket on it and retrieved my stuck stud.

Still putting this one back together...

Did the timing chain since I was there...
 

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My gpa used some high strength epoxy in on of the old wheat trucks, after the epoxy he had it bored for a sleeve, then stuck a sleeve in to cover the hole. Still holding today in the old toro flow diesel.
 
They don't normally break. This is the first one that's broken off on me. I've done at least 30 of these.

Usually when it get's rusty in there or not sealed via thread (two of the bolts require thread sealant) or gaskets or if the bolt was over-torqued
 
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