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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

Funniest thing I heard of and used was a couple raw eggs. They cruise around the system and get poached when it gets sprayed out the leak.
It doesn’t plug anything up and cleans out easily.
I never heard of it till I had a bad water pump seal on a trip through death valley. Worked like a charm and cleaned out easy when I swapped the the pump.

Yes an anode is a good thing for any coolant system.
 
Will L. said:
Funniest thing I heard of and used was a couple raw eggs. They cruise around the system and get poached when it gets sprayed out the leak.
It doesn’t plug anything up and cleans out easily.
I never heard of it till I had a bad water pump seal on a trip through death valley. Worked like a charm and cleaned out easy when I swapped the the pump.

Yes an anode is a good thing for any coolant system.
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Just dont hard boil them egggs furst.
BWAHAAAAhaaaaaa
 
nycxjeremyy said:
Super off topic, been thinking of doing a dual exhaust setup, what's everyone's thoughts on that?

Would love to imitate something like this:

Id be nice to have a loud, nice sounding exhaust (bonus with the turbo whistle)
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If duualing the exhaustes, I’d always want a pipe out each side.
Need a splitter back of the transmission X member unless there’s room betwen the X member and the flooring boards. 🤷😹
 
nycxjeremyy said:
Well boys, left my vehicle on accesory all night long and it refuses to start, I have it hooked up to my father's car currently.

photos.app.goo.gl

2 new videos · Wednesday, Mar 11 🎬

Tap to view!
photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl

Help 😭
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My brother bought one of these for his van/motorhome.
IMG_6746.jpeg
IMG_6748.jpeg
It is a remote control battery isolator.
He said it is a mighty fine device and takes the question out of if his battery is going to be charged enought to start the enjun.
The fob looking device with the paddle lock looking pics is the remote on off switch.
 
Looking at your pic, there are two penny size holes in the metal air cleaner that need to be sealed up too. as for the tubing, the hard part will be getting something in the oval shape that fits up to the metal housing. other than that, you can run a combination of aluminum piping and silicone rubber hose to get to the front where it exits and gets fresh air similar to what is used on big rigs. if your good with wire welding or know someone, you can take a sheet of 1/16" or slightly thicker sheet metal to from a round pipe snout, squish it enough to create the oval shape on one end and round on the other, have it welded in place on the air cleaner to allow a 5" or so hose connection. Then run hose and tubing out. you can get 4", 5", and 6" rubber boots in straights, 90's and 45's made for big rigs, along with fancying it up with the same size chrome piping if you want. if not, using the same type of sheet metal bent into a round pipe and welding it all up. even welding on some tabs where you can secure it in places along it's path too!
 
I can’t post a link right now, but on YouTube there is plenty of videos teaching how to form fit rubber and silicone hoses.

As to the batteries and all- get that $20 battery tester from harbor freight. Get a battery tender charger to keep them topped off if needed from sitting or getting used while not driving.
Batteries should ALWAYS be installed as a set. One at 80% the other at 100% will drain the new one constantly to the lower. Then the alternator will overcharge the new one because the older one is calling for it in the imbalance.

Remember an alternator is to put a moderate charge into the batteries while driving and really low batteries can work the alternator too hard and burn it up early.
 
Will L. said:
I can’t post a link right now, but on YouTube there is plenty of videos teaching how to form fit rubber and silicone hoses.

As to the batteries and all- get that $20 battery tester from harbor freight. Get a battery tender charger to keep them topped off if needed from sitting or getting used while not driving.
Batteries should ALWAYS be installed as a set. One at 80% the other at 100% will drain the new one constantly to the lower. Then the alternator will overcharge the new one because the older one is calling for it in the imbalance.

Remember an alternator is to put a moderate charge into the batteries while driving and really low batteries can work the alternator too hard and burn it up early.
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Im gonna take them to autozone tomorrow to get charged up, id warranty them out, though unfortunately theres no Oriellys in NYC/LI, only upstate.
 
I think you have something going on with the alternator or wiring to it. need to check voltage at the stud on the back when your meter in the dash is this low. also probe both of the spade connectors when it's running. you should see positive voltage on both spade terminals iirc as well as the stud on the back. post the voltage readings there and at the battery too.

if you get 13.5 at the alternator and battery but your dash is showing low, you might have a poor connection going into the cab.

we can get into that once we verify the alternator is doing what it's supposed to.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I think you have something going on with the alternator or wiring to it. need to check voltage at the stud on the back when your meter in the dash is this low. also probe both of the spade connectors when it's running. you should see positive voltage on both spade terminals iirc as well as the stud on the back. post the voltage readings there and at the battery too.

if you get 13.5 at the alternator and battery but your dash is showing low, you might have a poor connection going into the cab.

we can get into that once we verify the alternator is doing what it's supposed to.
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I should clarify.

I eliminated that diobe on the alternator, the 6.2 Diesel Chat on reddit said to since every alternator has one built in, when I did, the voltage meter actually began to show correct voltage. I essentially spliced the wires from the spade connectors together.

And then I left the vehicle on overnight that very same day.......

And ever since then, we have that occuring ^ im upset at myself for it happening, the alternator and batteries are new, the alternator is a higher output one
 
I wonder if by leaving the key on overnight and the battery draining out has done anything to the regulator in the alternator. best to check voltages at the alternator and battery comparing to what the gauge shows. your video showing you going down the road, your gauge should have been showing 13 or so at all times. There is an issue somewhere.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I wonder if by leaving the key on overnight and the battery draining out has done anything to the regulator in the alternator. best to check voltages at the alternator and battery comparing to what the gauge shows. your video showing you going down the road, your gauge should have been showing 13 or so at all times. There is an issue somewhere.
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Battery is more than likely drained, if thats the case, oh boy im in trouble.
Here's where I lowkey shot myself in the foot:

Batteries: O'Riellys, there are no oriellys in the NYC/LI area, I can only take them to autozone to recharge them, cant warranty them out as I would have

Alternato: NAPPA, which is actually down the block, I cant find the receipt for it, i know i have it somewhere, its just somewhere with all my VA files....
 
Autozone will be able to tell you if the batteries are an issue, but even with a low battery when the engine running the output on the alternator should be higher than shown on your gauge. when you get your batteries back charged, do you have a multi-meter? lets do some checking with it.
 
To test for bad diode. Put your multimeter on AC voltage, range 20 volts.
With engine running if You get a voltage reading of any kind, then there is a bad diode.
You do not need to cross any wires or anything else, just test off the alternator battery terminal and other probe to ground.
Please, someone correct me if this information is not correct.
 
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