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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

Will L. said:
Different gear:
This is your ip fuel return hose circled in white. It is the only 1/4” diameter line in the fuel system.
This is the one to replace with clear tubing, monitoring it at a glance whenever the hood is open and whenever the engine isn’t running perfectly happens in a couple seconds if the clear line is on permanently. Fuel-line.com sells actual fuel line that is clear and rated for the ethonal containing diesel fuel we have to buy now. Because it is not rubbing anything, the abrasion rating isn’t as critical here. Everywhere else in the truck the rubber hose is both subject to rubbing wear and is being eaten from the inside out by the ethanol in our fuel. So it should all be replaced with sae30r9 or higher to withstand it. Plan on dropping your fuel tank for replacement before it leaves you broke down somewhere. Verify what type hose you just bought for the filter to ip. If it’s wrong, don’t panic. It takes a year or so to do damage usually, and sometimes several years depending which hose you got.

The failing hose can damaged ip & injectors. Many people have replaced good working ip thinking they were at fault when it’s just hose failure. While others had the components ruined from the hose deterioration after the filter. So don’t panic but this is better done sooner rather than later.

View attachment 94563
Click to expand...
This is the rubber line that we bought for the 6.2, its rated for up to 15psi

 
On the manifold for $25 BUY IT! Install it, only drive off road because otherwise you might break a rule of the epa, hiway patrol, barney fife, etc in your area- even though doing it is one the the best ways to preserve the life of your engine.
Is that clear between those lines or still hazy…

That fuel line you bought is sae30R7. It should last a couple years before failing.
Plan it out and replace all the rubber line with sae30r9. It is listed in the specifications of their site.

On the CDR:
Drive the truck a while since you just cleaned the intake. Once you swap for the better intake manifold you found for $25, if the inside of the intake is covered in oil again- that will tell you to add a catch can. What you do not want is engine oil going back into the intake manifold.

I looked for a picture online of a 6.2/6.5 venting to atmosphere but cant find one. Can someone show him a pic of it please? For the longterm health of the engine it is better to vent to atmosphere than ingesting engine oil. But it is a smog law being broken just like eliminating the egr for street use would be.

The best option is the catch can. Some people eliminate the cdr.
Some people hollow out the cdr so it looks like it’s stock but really is just a hollow fitting. Some people leave the cdr stock.
Because I love the spotted tree whales and all related animals and plants as per described by the epa and government since we all know government is always right- I would never recommend doing anything illegal on a public forum or of coarse in private. 😁
However if it were an offroading vehicle only, or race vehicle- I would tell you rip all that stuff off of their asap for improvement in power, mpg, LOWER EMMISIONS IRONICALLY, and longer engine life.
 
Will L. said:
On the manifold for $25 BUY IT! Install it, only drive off road because otherwise you might break a rule of the epa, hiway patrol, barney fife, etc in your area- even though doing it is one the the best ways to preserve the life of your engine.
Is that clear between those lines or still hazy…

That fuel line you bought is sae30R7. It should last a couple years before failing.
Plan it out and replace all the rubber line with sae30r9. It is listed in the specifications of their site.

On the CDR:
Drive the truck a while since you just cleaned the intake. Once you swap for the better intake manifold you found for $25, if the inside of the intake is covered in oil again- that will tell you to add a catch can. What you do not want is engine oil going back into the intake manifold.

I looked for a picture online of a 6.2/6.5 venting to atmosphere but cant find one. Can someone show him a pic of it please? For the longterm health of the engine it is better to vent to atmosphere than ingesting engine oil. But it is a smog law being broken just like eliminating the egr for street use would be.

The best option is the catch can. Some people eliminate the cdr.
Some people hollow out the cdr so it looks like it’s stock but really is just a hollow fitting. Some people leave the cdr stock.
Because I love the spotted tree whales and all related animals and plants as per described by the epa and government since we all know government is always right- I would never recommend doing anything illegal on a public forum or of coarse in private. 😁
However if it were an offroading vehicle only, or race vehicle- I would tell you rip all that stuff off of their asap for improvement in power, mpg, LOWER EMMISIONS IRONICALLY, and longer engine life.
Click to expand...
1. Honestly may aswell. That manifold has been on marketplace for half a year now, may as well, my main thing is though if its compatible with the ATS turbo that I have.

2. Catch can?

3. Im in South Dakota sir, with the amount of deleted diesels that I see, i can say for sure that they won't care here, hell, alot of people dont even think that I own a diesel, they just assume that this is a 350SB, until i crank it on or do a drive by that is.

So, ill give it a try, ill do the venting to atmosphere thing, gonna need a playback or something to go off, but ill tell my boy and see what we can do.
 
20250620_145125.jpgIm puzzled by this

When on the highway, its at a cool 185-190

When im stopping or at idle, it immediately shoots up to 200

Even the transmission is running a bit hotter than normal, not near the +200°F temps though

What could be causing that?? It is +100°F today and sunny here.
 
200 is ok. At 210 watch it closely. 220 pull over and let it cool.

Catch can= oil catch can = oil seperator =
Different names, same thing & is what collects the oil vapors, allows them to condense back to a liquid and be drained back into the engine or discarded.
some guys rather just put in new oil as their can fills up. Others pour it back into the engine. Some systems automatically drain it back into the engine.

Watch the video. From 1:10 - 1:20 this is venting to atmosphere.
 
jrsavoie said:
Personally I don't like completely eliminating the car.

How does that work out for keeping the crankcase under a vacuum.

I'm guessing that after a certain point, that's no longer an issue
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The cdr will lessen the vacuum/ allow higher pressure in the crank case. It does nothing to help extract the pressure. It only limits the amount of air flow going through it at higher rpm.
 
nycxjeremyy said:
View attachment 94565Im puzzled by this

When on the highway, its at a cool 185-190

When im stopping or at idle, it immediately shoots up to 200

Even the transmission is running a bit hotter than normal, not near the +200°F temps though

What could be causing that?? It is +100°F today and sunny here.
Click to expand...
Could the fact that the pump was for a Hummer varient 6.2 that the pulley is a different size and its not outfitting enough? It stays cool when running, but it goes up in temp when at idle

Again, it is +100°F today and sunny
 
MrMarty51 said:
Make some block off plates for those EGR ports then run that enjun and figure it out.
Nice thing about Your truck, if it is the DB2 IP then those are still available in the brand new stage.
Click to expand...
Its the mechanical one, its not an elective one

I do have a mechanical pump on standby (sold to me from a guy with a CUCV a few months back) but, man, im gonna hate trying to install it
 
20250621_121906.jpgcurrently in the process of ripping it out, ill update you all on how it goes, again, if theres anything I should do while the intake is off, please do tell
 
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