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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

MrMarty51 said:
Fire it up and make sure that the IP is not leaking from the weep hole.
Just be sure to have a couple of boards handy, cut to fit over the length of the intake ports on each side, in case of a run away engine.
Then You can slap them boards over the ports to block off the supply of oxygen and fuel.
Just dont have Your fingers between the boards and any of the head or block surfaces.
I think if the vacuum sucks them boards down it could be a painful experience for the fingers.
Click to expand...
Hopefully its not from the IP, doubt it though as the lines were the ones that were the most drenched with diesel

The IP looks mainly dry
 
So…
Is that oil leaking from inbetween upper and lower intake manifolds?
First I am addressing that .

Wish I saw this before you reinstalled everything.
Suggestions for it taken apart is:
Plug intake ports as good as possible then Clean it all.
Get intake manifold gaskets with block off plates for egr and if not available do the soda can trick for that.

Consider a steel 5/16” pipe that extends the inlet for the ip fuel supply to the rear of the intake manifold. From there connect a T fitting and put the king nipple in the end of it. Connect new fuel hose on it from there to the fuel filter. The rubber fuel line should all be SAE30R9 to withstand the rubbing and the alcohols that are stuffed into our diesel fuel. The third port of the T should be 1/8” npt for a fuel pressure sending unit and a gauge mounted in the dash to see when driving. If you can’t install the gauge & sending unit at the moment, at least add the pipe & T with an 1/8” plug for now.

Having everything cleaned should help id the exact location of the leak(s).
If it is engine oil - addressing stopping the oil from getting into the intake manifold is next to address.
Cheapest is venting to atmosphere like diesels did in the 1970s and before. But this kills the earth, or at least spotted tree whales or something like that according to the epa and possibly your local policing agencies. Venting to atmosphere stops the oil from getting into the intake manifold. It does not stop the visible smoking, often it makes it more noticeable just at the drip hose not the exhaust pipe. And the oil consumption stays the same.

The new amount of oil burning smoke- might indicate bad valve guide seals but that won’t put oil into the intake manifold. That is more a sign of worn or damaged rings and or cylinder walls.
One bad cylinder gets tracked by the annoying process of removing one glow plug at a time and start engine for just a couple seconds. When one cylinder shoots out more than the others- start the chase from there.

My favorite go to has become a filtering catch can by Mann & Hummel called the Provent200. Unfortunately a couple guys here tried the cheaper knock off ones and they don’t work at all. But due to the expense, don’t buy one until you know it’s a requirement.

The oil getting into the intake manifold and getting burned- it isn’t just annoying.
That is what leads to the engine run away. Other than the smoke and increased oil consumption it’s never a problem until the day the engine hits 6,000 rpm and becomes a huge hand grenade. 100% blocking air flow is the only way to stop a runaway.

Second thing I am addressing is leaking fuel - that’s what the valley looks like in the last video you posted. You are going to have to see the actual spot it comes from. Inspection mirror sometimes gets it but best is a boroscope.
There are descent ones available on amazon nowdays for $50ish. Best resolution and large screens are desired. Check with local auto parts stores as some do the rental deal with them.

If your ip is bad- and it’s just the front seal- you can get a new military (24v) unit and do some parts swapping to make the military one a 12v and keep costs lower.

The engine itself is obviously the most expensive part if the 6.2/6.5, the ip and turbo tend to fight for 2nd/3rd place.
 
Will L. said:
So…
Is that oil leaking from inbetween upper and lower intake manifolds?
First I am addressing that .

Wish I saw this before you reinstalled everything.
Suggestions for it taken apart is:
Plug intake ports as good as possible then Clean it all.
Get intake manifold gaskets with block off plates for egr and if not available do the soda can trick for that.

Consider a steel 5/16” pipe that extends the inlet for the ip fuel supply to the rear of the intake manifold. From there connect a T fitting and put the king nipple in the end of it. Connect new fuel hose on it from there to the fuel filter. The rubber fuel line should all be SAE30R9 to withstand the rubbing and the alcohols that are stuffed into our diesel fuel. The third port of the T should be 1/8” npt for a fuel pressure sending unit and a gauge mounted in the dash to see when driving. If you can’t install the gauge & sending unit at the moment, at least add the pipe & T with an 1/8” plug for now.

Having everything cleaned should help id the exact location of the leak(s).
If it is engine oil - addressing stopping the oil from getting into the intake manifold is next to address.
Cheapest is venting to atmosphere like diesels did in the 1970s and before. But this kills the earth, or at least spotted tree whales or something like that according to the epa and possibly your local policing agencies. Venting to atmosphere stops the oil from getting into the intake manifold. It does not stop the visible smoking, often it makes it more noticeable just at the drip hose not the exhaust pipe. And the oil consumption stays the same.

The new amount of oil burning smoke- might indicate bad valve guide seals but that won’t put oil into the intake manifold. That is more a sign of worn or damaged rings and or cylinder walls.
One bad cylinder gets tracked by the annoying process of removing one glow plug at a time and start engine for just a couple seconds. When one cylinder shoots out more than the others- start the chase from there.

My favorite go to has become a filtering catch can by Mann & Hummel called the Provent200. Unfortunately a couple guys here tried the cheaper knock off ones and they don’t work at all. But due to the expense, don’t buy one until you know it’s a requirement.

The oil getting into the intake manifold and getting burned- it isn’t just annoying.
That is what leads to the engine run away. Other than the smoke and increased oil consumption it’s never a problem until the day the engine hits 6,000 rpm and becomes a huge hand grenade. 100% blocking air flow is the only way to stop a runaway.

Second thing I am addressing is leaking fuel - that’s what the valley looks like in the last video you posted. You are going to have to see the actual spot it comes from. Inspection mirror sometimes gets it but best is a boroscope.
There are descent ones available on amazon nowdays for $50ish. Best resolution and large screens are desired. Check with local auto parts stores as some do the rental deal with them.

If your ip is bad- and it’s just the front seal- you can get a new military (24v) unit and do some parts swapping to make the military one a 12v and keep costs lower.

The engine itself is obviously the most expensive part if the 6.2/6.5, the ip and turbo tend to fight for 2nd/3rd place.
Click to expand...
1. While we didnt add a pipe, we did add new rubber lines from Oriellys, the rubber pipes were what seemed the most wet

2. The turbo manifold was a tad loose after we took it for a test drive, we since then tightened down the nuts and it hasn't moved since, we're going to look it lover tomorrow as we want to make sure that its going anywhere

Also, venting to atmosphere?

3. Oh great, that sounds like a fun thing to do (regarding the cylinders)

4. Will definitely get a mirror or something, we tried to put our phones down there, didnt work out too well, were gonna try again tomorrow when the motor is cooler.
 
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