How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

[MrMarty51]

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Fire it up and make sure that the IP is not leaking from the weep hole.
Just be sure to have a couple of boards handy, cut to fit over the length of the intake ports on each side, in case of a run away engine.
Then You can slap them boards over the ports to block off the supply of oxygen and fuel.
Just dont have Your fingers between the boards and any of the head or block surfaces.
I think if the vacuum sucks them boards down it could be a painful experience for the fingers.

Hopefully its not from the IP, doubt it though as the lines were the ones that were the most drenched with diesel

The IP looks mainly dry

 

[MrMarty51]

Hopefully its not from the IP, doubt it though as the lines were the ones that were the most drenched with diesel

The IP looks mainly dry

Weep hole is under the pump at near the lowest place. Back from the mounting flange.

 

[jrsavoie]

Keep nm it covered up. You don't want any dirt or bugs getting in there

 

[nycxjeremyy]

How long do I keep it running to check for a leak? We ran it for 10 seconds, its still dry

 

[nycxjeremyy]

How it ran:

New video · Thursday, Jun 19 ð¬

Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[nycxjeremyy]

The manifold is C L E A N

 

[MrMarty51]

Could You see where it was leeeeking frum ?

 

[MrMarty51]

I forgot that Your truck has that EGR thing.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

I forgot that Your truck has that EGR thing.

How can I delete it? Im aware that having a turbo kinda challenges that

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Could You see where it was leeeeking frum ?

It was more than likely from that hose, as you can see from the video, when it ran for that length, it did not come from the IP were hole

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Welp

 

[nycxjeremyy]

PLEASE dont tell me its leaking from the weep hole

New video · Thursday, Jun 19 ð¬

Tap to view!

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[Will L.]

So…
Is that oil leaking from inbetween upper and lower intake manifolds?
First I am addressing that .

Wish I saw this before you reinstalled everything.
Suggestions for it taken apart is:
Plug intake ports as good as possible then Clean it all.
Get intake manifold gaskets with block off plates for egr and if not available do the soda can trick for that.

Consider a steel 5/16” pipe that extends the inlet for the ip fuel supply to the rear of the intake manifold. From there connect a T fitting and put the king nipple in the end of it. Connect new fuel hose on it from there to the fuel filter. The rubber fuel line should all be SAE30R9 to withstand the rubbing and the alcohols that are stuffed into our diesel fuel. The third port of the T should be 1/8” npt for a fuel pressure sending unit and a gauge mounted in the dash to see when driving. If you can’t install the gauge & sending unit at the moment, at least add the pipe & T with an 1/8” plug for now.

Having everything cleaned should help id the exact location of the leak(s).
If it is engine oil - addressing stopping the oil from getting into the intake manifold is next to address.
Cheapest is venting to atmosphere like diesels did in the 1970s and before. But this kills the earth, or at least spotted tree whales or something like that according to the epa and possibly your local policing agencies. Venting to atmosphere stops the oil from getting into the intake manifold. It does not stop the visible smoking, often it makes it more noticeable just at the drip hose not the exhaust pipe. And the oil consumption stays the same.

The new amount of oil burning smoke- might indicate bad valve guide seals but that won’t put oil into the intake manifold. That is more a sign of worn or damaged rings and or cylinder walls.
One bad cylinder gets tracked by the annoying process of removing one glow plug at a time and start engine for just a couple seconds. When one cylinder shoots out more than the others- start the chase from there.

My favorite go to has become a filtering catch can by Mann & Hummel called the Provent200. Unfortunately a couple guys here tried the cheaper knock off ones and they don’t work at all. But due to the expense, don’t buy one until you know it’s a requirement.

The oil getting into the intake manifold and getting burned- it isn’t just annoying.
That is what leads to the engine run away. Other than the smoke and increased oil consumption it’s never a problem until the day the engine hits 6,000 rpm and becomes a huge hand grenade. 100% blocking air flow is the only way to stop a runaway.

Second thing I am addressing is leaking fuel - that’s what the valley looks like in the last video you posted. You are going to have to see the actual spot it comes from. Inspection mirror sometimes gets it but best is a boroscope.
There are descent ones available on amazon nowdays for $50ish. Best resolution and large screens are desired. Check with local auto parts stores as some do the rental deal with them.

If your ip is bad- and it’s just the front seal- you can get a new military (24v) unit and do some parts swapping to make the military one a 12v and keep costs lower.

The engine itself is obviously the most expensive part if the 6.2/6.5, the ip and turbo tend to fight for 2nd/3rd place.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

So…
Is that oil leaking from inbetween upper and lower intake manifolds?
First I am addressing that .

Wish I saw this before you reinstalled everything.
Suggestions for it taken apart is:
Plug intake ports as good as possible then Clean it all.
Get intake manifold gaskets with block off plates for egr and if not available do the soda can trick for that.

Consider a steel 5/16” pipe that extends the inlet for the ip fuel supply to the rear of the intake manifold. From there connect a T fitting and put the king nipple in the end of it. Connect new fuel hose on it from there to the fuel filter. The rubber fuel line should all be SAE30R9 to withstand the rubbing and the alcohols that are stuffed into our diesel fuel. The third port of the T should be 1/8” npt for a fuel pressure sending unit and a gauge mounted in the dash to see when driving. If you can’t install the gauge & sending unit at the moment, at least add the pipe & T with an 1/8” plug for now.

Having everything cleaned should help id the exact location of the leak(s).
If it is engine oil - addressing stopping the oil from getting into the intake manifold is next to address.
Cheapest is venting to atmosphere like diesels did in the 1970s and before. But this kills the earth, or at least spotted tree whales or something like that according to the epa and possibly your local policing agencies. Venting to atmosphere stops the oil from getting into the intake manifold. It does not stop the visible smoking, often it makes it more noticeable just at the drip hose not the exhaust pipe. And the oil consumption stays the same.

The new amount of oil burning smoke- might indicate bad valve guide seals but that won’t put oil into the intake manifold. That is more a sign of worn or damaged rings and or cylinder walls.
One bad cylinder gets tracked by the annoying process of removing one glow plug at a time and start engine for just a couple seconds. When one cylinder shoots out more than the others- start the chase from there.

My favorite go to has become a filtering catch can by Mann & Hummel called the Provent200. Unfortunately a couple guys here tried the cheaper knock off ones and they don’t work at all. But due to the expense, don’t buy one until you know it’s a requirement.

The oil getting into the intake manifold and getting burned- it isn’t just annoying.
That is what leads to the engine run away. Other than the smoke and increased oil consumption it’s never a problem until the day the engine hits 6,000 rpm and becomes a huge hand grenade. 100% blocking air flow is the only way to stop a runaway.

Second thing I am addressing is leaking fuel - that’s what the valley looks like in the last video you posted. You are going to have to see the actual spot it comes from. Inspection mirror sometimes gets it but best is a boroscope.
There are descent ones available on amazon nowdays for $50ish. Best resolution and large screens are desired. Check with local auto parts stores as some do the rental deal with them.

If your ip is bad- and it’s just the front seal- you can get a new military (24v) unit and do some parts swapping to make the military one a 12v and keep costs lower.

The engine itself is obviously the most expensive part if the 6.2/6.5, the ip and turbo tend to fight for 2nd/3rd place.

1. While we didnt add a pipe, we did add new rubber lines from Oriellys, the rubber pipes were what seemed the most wet

2. The turbo manifold was a tad loose after we took it for a test drive, we since then tightened down the nuts and it hasn't moved since, we're going to look it lover tomorrow as we want to make sure that its going anywhere

Also, venting to atmosphere?

3. Oh great, that sounds like a fun thing to do (regarding the cylinders)

4. Will definitely get a mirror or something, we tried to put our phones down there, didnt work out too well, were gonna try again tomorrow when the motor is cooler.

 

[Will L.]

Coming out of the crank case on your oil fill spout is the hose that feeds to your CDR. Thats the tuna can thing with the hoses on it above your alternator. Bypassing it with a hose that lets crankcase pressure go directly to the air rather than recirculating into the engine.

Ok the book version:

The CDR is Crankcase Depressurization Regulator. In a gas engine its like a pcv valve. The crankcase will build pressure from the pistons moving up & down but mostly from blow by. Brand new perfect running engines have a small amount of blow by. Perfect running 6.2/6.5 have more blow by than a worn out gasoline engine because the 21.5:1 compression in a 6.2 vs 7.5:1 in most gas engines.
Then add wear, hest damaged rings, and you get a descent amount.
This is exhaust gases getting shoved into the oil pan and mixing into the oil which is why 3 seconds after an oil change your new oil is black as night but in a gasoline engine its almost invisible on a dipstick. The oil in vapor form gets sucked back into the intake and burned through the cylinders and out the exhaust pipe. It adds to tailpipe emissions but is far cleaner than simply dripping it onto the ground or a vapor mist of oil going directly to the air.

If you ever notice an old 1960s,1970s semi truck and they have a hose dangling below the engine and some smoke coming out of it- oil dripping out of it… that is venting to atmosphere. Commonly referred to as the “slobber hose”, and half of what gave Detroit the name Leaktroit. This being done by millions of vehicles legitimately adds to smog and oil pollution all over the roads. So it was banned by the epa in the early 1970s. Im not a tree hugger, and can say this was a good change.

The higher cylinder pressure the more crankcase pressure. Cylinder pressure is increased by turbo. Crankcase pressure is also increased with engine rpm. You have substantially more pressure at 2500 rpm than idle. Higher rpm= higher crankcase pressure.
the cdr is open the most at idle, and restricting flow more as the engine rpm increases. This is because if you are running max rpm down the hiway and getting a constant supply of oil through the intake and burning it- this is when the runaway is more likely to occur. To combat this issue, they regulate the amount of blow by that the engine can get by the use of a cdr. The cdr is an emissions device technically but practically is to limit the amount of oil your cylinders can ingest to stop the engine from exploding. Literally.

Venting to atmosphere- which again for my legal standing and yours, is illegal almost everywhere in the USA- would be done by replacing the howe that comes out of the fill tube with a long hose that goes up as high as possible to almost touching the hood, then does a u-turn and goes back down hanging slightly lower than the crossmember and any steering components. Then putting a plug on the circulation lines where the hoses attach at the other ends. That is what SOME people would do. It is a viable and legitimate test to do even by epa standards so long as the cdr is still inplace and just capped off to keep the system clean for reattaching later. It honestly is not my preference- especially in an offroad rig where you go through any water, even deep puddles for on road only pickups.

Doing this doesn’t solve blow by, it just stops the runaway option from occurring in this- it’s most common manner outside of someone messing up their injection pump. But it does subject water intrusion into the engine if the engine get shut off and the hose is in a puddle, river, etc. rare but seen it happen and it is an instant death of the engine when it occurs. Also oil consumption goes up. Back when oil was cheap- no one cared, But now days it’s not. Then legitimately I don’t think dumping engine oil everywhere you park is appreciated by most folks and this absolutely will. So doing testing then adding a catch can system inline and keeping the system closed up is my preference both for the “tree hugging” side and the “clean driveway” aspect.

There is something else to consider. The 6.2 did not come with a turbo. Not even the first series of 6.5. When they did add a cdr it was different one that used different pressure. I never tested and saw which actually helped more. But your 6.2 cdr is definitely not for a turbo system. It might actually be preferred- idk, because as mentioned before I prefer eliminating them and going to a better for the engine and the environment provent. Not saying that for prying epa eyes- it honestly does a better job for both emissions and for engine life. Its simply more expensive. Whenever I added a turbo to a n/a 6.2/6.5, I always replaced the cer with the newer type is not going catch can. Some folks keep the cdr and catch can, I prefer to make the catch can do all the work and not restrict the pressure removal at the highest rpm where it is the worst.

 

[Will L.]

Different gear:
This is your ip fuel return hose circled in white. It is the only 1/4” diameter line in the fuel system.
This is the one to replace with clear tubing, monitoring it at a glance whenever the hood is open and whenever the engine isn’t running perfectly happens in a couple seconds if the clear line is on permanently. Fuel-line.com sells actual fuel line that is clear and rated for the ethonal containing diesel fuel we have to buy now. Because it is not rubbing anything, the abrasion rating isn’t as critical here. Everywhere else in the truck the rubber hose is both subject to rubbing wear and is being eaten from the inside out by the ethanol in our fuel. So it should all be replaced with sae30r9 or higher to withstand it. Plan on dropping your fuel tank for replacement before it leaves you broke down somewhere. Verify what type hose you just bought for the filter to ip. If it’s wrong, don’t panic. It takes a year or so to do damage usually, and sometimes several years depending which hose you got.

The failing hose can damaged ip & injectors. Many people have replaced good working ip thinking they were at fault when it’s just hose failure. While others had the components ruined from the hose deterioration after the filter. So don’t panic but this is better done sooner rather than later.

 

[jrsavoie]

I forgot that Your truck has that EGR thing.

Need to get rid of that

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Need to get rid of that

@Will, im reading your stuff i promise

To those concerned about my EGR, surprisingly, my Turbo (the way its set up at least) actually cancels it out from my intake, it blocks those passages out, we both noticed it so there is no EGR

That being said, surprisingly, theres actually a J-Code manifold.being sold near me

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[nycxjeremyy]

Coming out of the crank case on your oil fill spout is the hose that feeds to your CDR. Thats the tuna can thing with the hoses on it above your alternator. Bypassing it with a hose that lets crankcase pressure go directly to the air rather than recirculating into the engine.

Ok the book version:

The CDR is Crankcase Depressurization Regulator. In a gas engine its like a pcv valve. The crankcase will build pressure from the pistons moving up & down but mostly from blow by. Brand new perfect running engines have a small amount of blow by. Perfect running 6.2/6.5 have more blow by than a worn out gasoline engine because the 21.5:1 compression in a 6.2 vs 7.5:1 in most gas engines.
Then add wear, hest damaged rings, and you get a descent amount.
This is exhaust gases getting shoved into the oil pan and mixing into the oil which is why 3 seconds after an oil change your new oil is black as night but in a gasoline engine its almost invisible on a dipstick. The oil in vapor form gets sucked back into the intake and burned through the cylinders and out the exhaust pipe. It adds to tailpipe emissions but is far cleaner than simply dripping it onto the ground or a vapor mist of oil going directly to the air.

If you ever notice an old 1960s,1970s semi truck and they have a hose dangling below the engine and some smoke coming out of it- oil dripping out of it… that is venting to atmosphere. Commonly referred to as the “slobber hose”, and half of what gave Detroit the name Leaktroit. This being done by millions of vehicles legitimately adds to smog and oil pollution all over the roads. So it was banned by the epa in the early 1970s. Im not a tree hugger, and can say this was a good change.

The higher cylinder pressure the more crankcase pressure. Cylinder pressure is increased by turbo. Crankcase pressure is also increased with engine rpm. You have substantially more pressure at 2500 rpm than idle. Higher rpm= higher crankcase pressure.
the cdr is open the most at idle, and restricting flow more as the engine rpm increases. This is because if you are running max rpm down the hiway and getting a constant supply of oil through the intake and burning it- this is when the runaway is more likely to occur. To combat this issue, they regulate the amount of blow by that the engine can get by the use of a cdr. The cdr is an emissions device technically but practically is to limit the amount of oil your cylinders can ingest to stop the engine from exploding. Literally.

Venting to atmosphere- which again for my legal standing and yours, is illegal almost everywhere in the USA- would be done by replacing the howe that comes out of the fill tube with a long hose that goes up as high as possible to almost touching the hood, then does a u-turn and goes back down hanging slightly lower than the crossmember and any steering components. Then putting a plug on the circulation lines where the hoses attach at the other ends. That is what SOME people would do. It is a viable and legitimate test to do even by epa standards so long as the cdr is still inplace and just capped off to keep the system clean for reattaching later. It honestly is not my preference- especially in an offroad rig where you go through any water, even deep puddles for on road only pickups.

Doing this doesn’t solve blow by, it just stops the runaway option from occurring in this- it’s most common manner outside of someone messing up their injection pump. But it does subject water intrusion into the engine if the engine get shut off and the hose is in a puddle, river, etc. rare but seen it happen and it is an instant death of the engine when it occurs. Also oil consumption goes up. Back when oil was cheap- no one cared, But now days it’s not. Then legitimately I don’t think dumping engine oil everywhere you park is appreciated by most folks and this absolutely will. So doing testing then adding a catch can system inline and keeping the system closed up is my preference both for the “tree hugging” side and the “clean driveway” aspect.

There is something else to consider. The 6.2 did not come with a turbo. Not even the first series of 6.5. When they did add a cdr it was different one that used different pressure. I never tested and saw which actually helped more. But your 6.2 cdr is definitely not for a turbo system. It might actually be preferred- idk, because as mentioned before I prefer eliminating them and going to a better for the engine and the environment provent. Not saying that for prying epa eyes- it honestly does a better job for both emissions and for engine life. Its simply more expensive. Whenever I added a turbo to a n/a 6.2/6.5, I always replaced the cer with the newer type is not going catch can. Some folks keep the cdr and catch can, I prefer to make the catch can do all the work and not restrict the pressure removal at the highest rpm where it is the worst.

To TLDR,

Bypass the CDR valve/plug it off and run a hose to the exhaust(?) To vent ti atmosphere?

I'm trying hard to follow along, ill be showing this to my suburban friend, however, he is more of a gasser than diesel tech (he owns a 454) so even this will take a bit of a walk through.

Id actually do it if it seems feasible enough/won't damage anything