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6.5L HMMWV 6.5

You would have to buy it and try. The size of fitting diameter (-6 or -7 or -8) I can’t remember. Then how tall the fitting is so that the 1/8” port is high enough that the sensor clears.
I’m not 100% sure but I believe a guy ordered a large assortment. Test fit, tried different brands, and settled on the best fitting one. Thinking that dude dropped a few hundred bucks into that research and of course ya can’t return these fittings once scratched up from installing.
If you can test fit and not scratch up- then install the one you need and return the rest-it would help those who need this but cant afford the $30 MM one.
Shipping cost and time involvement I think is why no one on this forum has singled out the one to get yet. If ya do it and choose to share, others in the future might appreciate it.

In getting one- somethings to consider. The ip hosing is an aluminum alloy not pure aluminum. The fitting MM sells is an aluminum alloy but idk if the same alloy or not.
I do not like aluminum fuel fittings. The aluminum ones are used for racing where ounces of weight are fought over for winning. Light weight means shorter lifespan and failed fuel line components means spilled fuel. Race cars get new parts often- winning is expensive, dying is cheap. Imo aluminum fittings, especially the A&N brand on a street driven car isn’t smart. On an old rattletrap diesel where vibration is a guarantee - it is neighboring stupid. My preference is steel. Who frickin cares if it weighs 2 pounds more. It will last for ever and not spill fuel, atf, engine oil, coolant, whatever the fitting is used for. A&N look awesome and are easy to find. So are coffins. Buy steel whenever possible.
Steel drawbacks other than time spent looking- like at a hydraulic supply shop where they make hoses and sell fittings-
Steel fitting against an aluminum alloy housing could introduce galvanic corrosion.
Has anyone check the factory fittings btw? I can’t remember what ds4 uses. Been way too many years.

Us db2 users have a far easier fix. The fuel inlet is in the middle of the 8 injector lines at rear of ip. We do the equivalent of FTB by drill and tap if the tap is already owned from 5/16 to 3/8, or just buy the ford nose cone since they are 3/8 like stanandyne originally specified. just put the Tee thats 3/8 x 3/8 x 1/8 right at the ip housing and done but the sensor fit is hard.

So some add a piece of 3/8 steel pipe, and a female T at the end of the pipe. Mounting at the rear where the pipe sticks out to eliminate the vibration cracking threads is easy enough. Then the sensor is easy to access.
 
Will L. said:
You would have to buy it and try. The size of fitting diameter (-6 or -7 or -8) I can’t remember. Then how tall the fitting is so that the 1/8” port is high enough that the sensor clears.
I’m not 100% sure but I believe a guy ordered a large assortment. Test fit, tried different brands, and settled on the best fitting one. Thinking that dude dropped a few hundred bucks into that research and of course ya can’t return these fittings once scratched up from installing.
If you can test fit and not scratch up- then install the one you need and return the rest-it would help those who need this but cant afford the $30 MM one.
Shipping cost and time involvement I think is why no one on this forum has singled out the one to get yet. If ya do it and choose to share, others in the future might appreciate it.

In getting one- somethings to consider. The ip hosing is an aluminum alloy not pure aluminum. The fitting MM sells is an aluminum alloy but idk if the same alloy or not.
I do not like aluminum fuel fittings. The aluminum ones are used for racing where ounces of weight are fought over for winning. Light weight means shorter lifespan and failed fuel line components means spilled fuel. Race cars get new parts often- winning is expensive, dying is cheap. Imo aluminum fittings, especially the A&N brand on a street driven car isn’t smart. On an old rattletrap diesel where vibration is a guarantee - it is neighboring stupid. My preference is steel. Who frickin cares if it weighs 2 pounds more. It will last for ever and not spill fuel, atf, engine oil, coolant, whatever the fitting is used for. A&N look awesome and are easy to find. So are coffins. Buy steel whenever possible.
Steel drawbacks other than time spent looking- like at a hydraulic supply shop where they make hoses and sell fittings-
Steel fitting against an aluminum alloy housing could introduce galvanic corrosion.
Has anyone check the factory fittings btw? I can’t remember what ds4 uses. Been way too many years.

Us db2 users have a far easier fix. The fuel inlet is in the middle of the 8 injector lines at rear of ip. We do the equivalent of FTB by drill and tap if the tap is already owned from 5/16 to 3/8, or just buy the ford nose cone since they are 3/8 like stanandyne originally specified. just put the Tee thats 3/8 x 3/8 x 1/8 right at the ip housing and done but the sensor fit is hard.

So some add a piece of 3/8 steel pipe, and a female T at the end of the pipe. Mounting at the rear where the pipe sticks out to eliminate the vibration cracking threads is easy enough. Then the sensor is easy to access.
Click to expand...
Buying and trying isn't going to happen . At least not for a long time if ever

Surely someone has installed a fuel pressure gauge on a GMT400 6.5 diesel that would share what is needed.
 
jrsavoie said:
Buying and trying isn't going to happen . At least not for a long time if ever

Surely someone has installed a fuel pressure gauge on a GMT400 6.5 diesel that would share what is needed.
Click to expand...
It would definitely be nice for those less “economically endowed”. Haha
Yeah- I am in that group.

Idk which works for ds4- every ds4 I have gotten for last couple decades I just give away.

Another option if ya have another car- remove that hose and take it into a hydraulic/ parts shop. Match it up and get the tallest one you can.

Understand the hummer guys won’t share because it’s like $20 or so profit for Mark- and doing that is like undercutting the time he spent and being the owner and i think sole supporter of the hummer forum- they want him to stay healthy in business so the forum stays working and the unique parts he offers are still available. That and There isnt a lot of hummer owners that saving $20 makes a difference to. Most the broke dudes like me own db2 hmmwv not ds4 hummers.
 
Is that MM AN sender unit adapter fitting made of steel ?
Just curious.
I currently have one of aluminum, from ebay.
Is it legal to show that ebay info on here ?
Fitting I have is used with Leroys feed the beast kit.
Just have it plugged for now. No gauge or sending unit attached.
 
Idk, I can try finding out if the MM one is aluminum.

Yes you can post a hot link here. Only time you can’t is if a supporting vendor sells that item. Because you are undercutting that vendor’s sells.

Fyi on hummer forum- Mark (MM owner) doesn’t delete the hot links to competitors, doesn’t delete when people bash him or his high prices. So I don’t like the high prices because I can’t afford the stuff- but I respect how he operates his stuff. He is like a expensive steak house and I can barely afford McDonalds. He runs his business right and moral from everything I see.
 
Will L. said:
Idk, I can try finding out if the MM one is aluminum.

Yes you can post a hot link here. Only time you can’t is if a supporting vendor sells that item. Because you are undercutting that vendor’s sells.

Fyi on hummer forum- Mark (MM owner) doesn’t delete the hot links to competitors, doesn’t delete when people bash him or his high prices. So I don’t like the high prices because I can’t afford the stuff- but I respect how he operates his stuff. He is like a expensive steak house and I can barely afford McDonalds. He runs his business right and moral from everything I see.
Click to expand...
Who can afford fast food?
We did fast food once in I don't know how many years.

It was like $35 for 2 of us. We can have good bar burgers for that kind of money
 
I’m with ya- steel is best.
For that you would have to go to a hydraulic shop. Then probably drill and tap it yourself. The only reason these fittings exist with the 1/8” npt hole is for gauges in automotive applications.
Or go see what they have that gets you to 1/8”
 
Will L. said:
I’m with ya- steel is best.
For that you would have to go to a hydraulic shop. Then probably drill and tap it yourself. The only reason these fittings exist with the 1/8” npt hole is for gauges in automotive applications.
Or go see what they have that gets you to 1/8”
Click to expand...
I rarely leave the house anymore. Heading out today to get something to eat for the 47th anniversary.
Should be out deer hunting, but wasn't quite up to it.

When and if the time comes. I will go through my and my brothers fittings. I could always weld a coupling half or something if we had a T with to big a hole.

If I knew exactly what was needed, I'd just place an order.

It'd be good if there was a kit that had everything you need, including 2 senders, one for before and one for after the FFM.
 
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jrsavoie said:
I rarely leave the house anymore. Heading out today to get something to eat for the 47th anniversary.
Should be out deer hunting, but wasn't quite up to it.

When and if the time comes. I will go through my and my brothers fittings. I could always weld a coupling half or something if we had a T with to big a hole.

If I knew exactly what was needed, I'd just place an order.

It'd be good if there was a kit that had everything you need, including 2 senders, one for before and one for after the FFM.
Click to expand...
I asked about a complete kit years ago. It won’t sell because each guy wants different color, size, style of gauge by preference. I want two, as by sounds so do you- but thats oddball most want one. We can all buy cheap of Amazon or summit. But a place like MM or Leroy or TSP has to mark up the part to justify the time and money invested, let alone they are doing it for a paycheck.
So it simply isn’t worth it to them to invest thousands of dollars to wait and eventually make a few bucks.
Really- like this one fitting- I am guessing he bought a dozen to sell. If he paid $18 each and shipped to him cost $1 each by time it’s divided up. Then advertising expense of the website costs a couple bucks to do by time it’s averaged out over selling 30. So of he got a good deal he is into them $21 bucks a piece. Then probably $5 to ship it to California, Illinois, or Maine. So now he is $26 into a part he sells for $30.
And believe me- he hears about his sky high prices often. So that $4 paycheck/profit is rough money imo. Especially when I am the guy pushing people to add a gauge more than anyone and the only one he can find is aluminum- and I turn around and say “aluminum is an ok second option but steel is best”.

For him to have fittings custom made from steel- they work be $100 a piece probably.
 
Will L. said:
I asked about a complete kit years ago. It won’t sell because each guy wants different color, size, style of gauge by preference. I want two, as by sounds so do you- but thats oddball most want one. We can all buy cheap of Amazon or summit. But a place like MM or Leroy or TSP has to mark up the part to justify the time and money invested, let alone they are doing it for a paycheck.
So it simply isn’t worth it to them to invest thousands of dollars to wait and eventually make a few bucks.
Really- like this one fitting- I am guessing he bought a dozen to sell. If he paid $18 each and shipped to him cost $1 each by time it’s divided up. Then advertising expense of the website costs a couple bucks to do by time it’s averaged out over selling 30. So of he got a good deal he is into them $21 bucks a piece. Then probably $5 to ship it to California, Illinois, or Maine. So now he is $26 into a part he sells for $30.
And believe me- he hears about his sky high prices often. So that $4 paycheck/profit is rough money imo. Especially when I am the guy pushing people to add a gauge more than anyone and the only one he can find is aluminum- and I turn around and say “aluminum is an ok second option but steel is best”.

For him to have fittings custom made from steel- they work be $100 a piece probably.
Click to expand...
I'm not scared to pay for someone's time and knowledge.
Example I'd rather buy Leroy's lift pump relay upgrade than make my own. The only reason I didn't buy his before was he didn't have an on/off switch originally. And he had mountable relays instead of mountable relay sockets.

A fuel gauge kit could be pretty basic. Fittings for the sending unit to go to the FFM, with or without, feed the beast.
Prefilter sending unit could be an option.

Gauges could be optional or recommended.

It wouldn't surprise me if all parts could be ordered from one place. A seller could order and sell kits as they're ordered.

It'd only add a couple days to arrival. Might even be able to have it drop shipped.
 
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if you go to a "specialty" hydraulic shop, they should be able to get one in steel for you. I have seen lots of these in various sizes at work, they are used mainly to setup temporary pressure gauges in line for setting and adjusting pump pressures when there are no test ports in the hydraulic systems. pull the fitting out of the IP (part with the screen) put the large end in a vice and use a box wrench to remove the hose bib. iirc that thread is what a hydraulic shop calls a #4 boss. it is the same thread as a JIC only is flat on the end and has an o-ring up at the nut making a seal when tightened down. the end where the hose bib would be is a #6 JIC (same a -6an). more commonly you can find a #4 boss to #4 JIC than finding jump sizes, but they are available.
 
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