HID BACK UP LIGHTS FOR 88 & UP Chevy GMC

[Rodd]

Check this site out. It has a little different design than the suv's i've seen but it is similar. Look at the design of the head lights on the passenger side head lamp. It is made up of a bunch of small nid lights vs one or two larger bulbs. http://progress.audiusa.com/

If you move your cursor over the Q7 it will pop up and you can see the lights.

 

[Rodd]

It looks like Audi engineers took rope lights and made a pattern to come up with the final design.

 

[Burning oil]

Im with you now. I have seen LED strips you can buy that would give a simular effect. I really don't want to get into that product, there is way to much of it on the market. I've even seen it at Walmart. Have not seen any "oem aftermarket" like those for our trucks. There are projector headlights though and I think they would be worth a try next time I need lights.
I have them on the Titan and they are awsome, you can't believe how much better they are.

 

[Paveltolz]

Picture shows HID on left side. The right side is a 3157 in a LED housing and a crystal clear lens, so it is brighter than most anyway. You can still see a huge difference in the two.

Thanks Leroy. Very much looking forward to this upgrade and the fuel sender as well.

 

[Burning oil]

I got them done and could'int resist testing them. Making up the Metrum Rod FSU for you now.

 

[Paveltolz]

The Tail Lights are here. Quite the kit, now I understand where the $$ goes. Leroy sent the instructions ahead but reading them without the material at hand makes comprehension difficult for me. I'm a visual learner. This is going to be entertaining and I'll post up photos of the fun later.
I'll let you know how it goes. It's 34* in the garage and I'm feeling whimpy this afternoon.

 

[Burning oil]

Great!! Call me when you get it layed out and I will talk you through whats what. It not as big a job as it looks at all. I can usually do an install in less than an hour.

 

[Paveltolz]

Well its all in. Took my time and did some other stuff too. All in all about 4 hours but in my defense, I took photos along the way; built a schematic of the wiring in power point on how it sounded in the instructions. Good thing that I did as I discovered a couple of things I missed in the reading but not after I had made a mistake, which is unusual for me. So yes, I took longer than I needed to take but I didn't have to re-do any work either.

Good instructions, easy install and it worked first time. The effects are, well, dazzling. I tried to leave Leroy alone and he was right there for me when I came across the one real issue not addressed in the write up. I'd post some photos but the results are the same as the ones he's already posted. Very pleased with the results.

Thanks Leroy, you're as good as your word and that says a lot these days.

Paul

 

[Burning oil]

Thank you. Please do post some pics anyway. I can use all the marketing I can get and would love to see someone elses perspective on it. Any initial thought on the Metrum Rod fsu? Maybe in a different post to keep this one on subject.

 

[Paveltolz]

Metrum Rod will be Tuesday's project as I'm home waiting for the "cable guy" Looks pretty straight forward as too. I'm looking forward to that one as I've had a tank sock on the shelf for quite some time.

 

[Paveltolz]

Pictures as requested

The Kit.


Leroy attached the aluminum disks that are machined to accept the HID bulbs prior to returning everything to me.



1. After removing tail lights, the ballasts are positioned behind the tail light braceing. I drilled two holes to secure the ballasts in place. The larger hole is to accept the reset of the small bolt holding the ballast retainer together and then the smaller one for the screw to hold the assy to the truck.


The kit comes with heavy duty zip ties with provision to run a screw through it to use instead of the brackets. Your call.

2. The harness (not pictured) has the power feeds (black and red) for the ballasts (x2), 10 ga Red Power lead w/30amp Fused link, one set of paired grounds, and a black and white pared wire set (ground and 'trigger'). Ran the power feeds for the ballasts into place.

These are then attached to the ballasts (red lead to the positive side) to keep them in place.

3. I chose to run the 12v 10 ga wire for the battery up the driver's side. It attaches via a fused link later in the process.


4. 10ga wire is spliced in to the relay harness with butt splice.


5. There is an 18 ga "trigger" wire that is run with the 10ga wire to the front. This is what is used to manually run the lights as work lamps. Both are red and there is plenty of provided loom to protect them from front to rear. The trigger wire is fed into the cab through the same hole in my firewall as the guage feeds for boost, egt IAT etc. I chose a different style switch than what Leroy provides with the kit so mine isn't connected yet.

6. Power for the "trigger" comes from the reverse lamp circuit.
First, ID the correct wire with either multi meter or test lamp. Confirm with key on, gear select in reverse. 11.8v on mine. ReConfirm with key on, gear select in park. Zero v.



7. Red and White trigger wires on one side of a butt splice, lead to the identified reverse lamp wire.



8. Grounds were combined and attached to the OEM frame location which I cleaned up while I was in there.



9. Once the 10ga wire was attached to the battery it was play time. That's were Leroy and I both learned that the provided fuse holder doesn't have a fuse inside...:WTF: Once that was worked out, a 30 amp fuse installed (probably over kill) it lit up the garage "as advertised."

 

[Paveltolz]

Here's the CORRECTED wiring diagram I ginned up while scratching my head and wondering, "does that mean what I think it do?" "It do."

View attachment HID Reverse Lights Relay Harness-corrected.pdf

I incorrectly labled one of the wires. :mad2:

Change "Turn Signal Wire" with "Back Up/Reverse Lamp Wire":thumbsup:

Leroy, if you want, link to these posts from your other thread or I could double post this one. Your call.