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HELP!

Pull the easy glow plugs and leave the PIA ones alone. You don't need to prime all 8 injectors. Use an IR temp gun on a cold engine and check each area around the glow plug. Cycle the plugs several times. Recheck the temp ... any that didn't change may be bad or bad wires.

Use the block heater overnight and glow plugs are taken out of the picture. It should start on block heater alone.

This is what it should sound and look like priming the fuel system. Some glow plugs out of engine for priming, but NOT all, when the project was being finished.

1992 6.5TD Rescue

.......Any bets on how many parts I still have to replace on the AC system?........i say 5. what's my prize?
www.thetruckstop.us
 
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Did you get the clear line on the ip return? I would like to see that on video while someone is trying to start.

I hear one or two trying to fire but she is not happy. If the clear line test comes out good, pull all 8 glow plugs-
(Yup 3 are hard) and do a compression test.

Crank speed is ok. Remember:
30 seconds on, 30 seconds off
30 seconds on, 30 seconds off
30 seconds on, 30 MINUTES off

This is the maximum to run any v8 starter at. It is REALLY pushing limits on high compression diesels.
 
No unfortunately I have not done the clear line as much as I would like, if it was my choice this truck would of been running 3 weeks ago instead of just tinkering with it when we have free time. It is not the top priority since it is our own and not a customer's. I have the clear line but have not done the test yet. As soon as we do the clear line test I will record it and put it here. Thank all yall for being insightful and most patient with me.
 
That is test #1. Always.
Most of us here leave it on ALL THE TIME.
Less that $5.00
Less than 5 minutes.
Super easy. Are you aware of which line to replace?
 
Will L. said:
The only way to test glowplugs is power them up where you can see them glow red.
GM lists an ohm test- but I have seen bad plugs test good and good plugs test bad.
so remove and power up is only reliable way.
Click to expand...

Not quite true, you can take a test light, hook it to the hot side of a battery and touch the pointed end on the glow plug, lighted it's usually good, not light it's bad.
 
Redtruck97 said:
Not quite true, you can take a test light, hook it to the hot side of a battery and touch the pointed end on the glow plug, lighted it's usually good, not light it's bad.
Click to expand...
That will show if it works at all or not. But if the tip is burned 1/4 the way off, it will work- but it doesn’t put out even half the heat.
Also when they get crystalized from too much ethanol/ methanol or using starter fluid - they will work and consume more power than normal but out out far less heat.
 
Hollowaycustoms said:
No unfortunately I have not done the clear line as much as I would like, if it was my choice this truck would of been running 3 weeks ago instead of just tinkering with it when we have free time. It is not the top priority since it is our own and not a customer's. I have the clear line but have not done the test yet. As soon as we do the clear line test I will record it and put it here. Thank all yall for being insightful and most patient with me.
Click to expand...


DONT do ANYTHING else until you do this. All you are doing now is wearing out batteries and starter.
You HAVE to follow diagnostics in proper order or you are just lighting money on fire.
 
Hope I am not sounding like a jerk, not trying to.

This is a video of my nephews 1988 with the worst case of air intrusion I have ever seen and the truck still ran. It was a nightmare to start and at FULL throttle, the engine barely hit 1,000 rpm.
Everything else on this truck was perfect. New high quality fuel with proper lube added, low miles on engine, perfect compression, and as soon as he fixed the air getting in- this truck could smoke the tires.

The clear line you see here is the one to change. It should be full of nothing but clean fuel.

 
Will L. said:
Hope I am not sounding like a jerk, not trying to.

This is a video of my nephews 1988 with the worst case of air intrusion I have ever seen and the truck still ran. It was a nightmare to start and at FULL throttle, the engine barely hit 1,000 rpm.
Everything else on this truck was perfect. New high quality fuel with proper lube added, low miles on engine, perfect compression, and as soon as he fixed the air getting in- this truck could smoke the tires.

The clear line you see here is the one to change. It should be full of nothing but clean fuel.

Click to expand...
Thank you!! And no not sounding like a jerk. I meant yes sir in respect not smartassery I promise. Thank you for all your help!!
 
Hollowaycustoms said:
Yes i load tested them separately
Click to expand...

? With what? Maybe you have a bad battery cable or corrosion under a ground cable. Possible one brush is burned out in the starter and it's not spinning fast enough. The Voltage is falling like a rock when cranking and IMO is going below the minimum required.

If you replace the starter get a Powermaster 9052. No, don't get one off the shelf or your best parts supplier buddy even if it's free. Get one that spins the engine faster than OEM and can overcome some other uh... problems. It's like getting a high performance CD ignition upgrade coil and all for a gasser. https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/the-powermaster-9052-starter-for-6-2-and-6-5.26396/

The glow plugs cool down in about 10 seconds. So you can crank it 30 seconds, but, you are wasting the last 20 seconds.

Put the throttle halfway to the floor on your next attempt. Back off when it fires up of course.

Plug in the block heater for 4-8 hours. If it's working it eliminates glow plug need.

It's not spinning fast enough. It will not start unless it's spinning faster.

Interesting it being a Manual trans: No Service Engine Soon bulb check. 🤪 Not that it would matter on a 1993. 12V at the pink IP wire with the key on matters and that it is hooked up like the video @Will L. posted.

It should spin this fast. By ear @JMJNet also noted it's spinning slow.

 
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