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Help with GPR & battery voltage issues please!

KyleH said:
That’s extremely helpful. Thanks for explaining it all. I was wondering if I’d be able to do it myself… to be honest I’ve tried to rebuild my turbo before & was unsuccessful. Thinking I may have better luck with this if I do my research and take time. I’ve contacted a local shop that rebuilds Them for parts & a quote on rebuild of that portion. I think I can do it myself tho…

I do not have a torque wrench/driver tho… is this 100% necessary to reinstall those torks??
Thanks for all the help guys!
I figure it’s a blessing I’ve got it apart and see the leaking diesel… it’s so slight now but an engine fire down the road would be devastating. This is a vehicle I travel/ live in.. converted school bus:p

I have noticed when I pull the sensor- the truck dies…which leaves me scratching my head as to why I’m having ground issues still.. when I play with that area I can get the glow plug to click rapidly…It’s hard to tell with my lack of professionalism, but it seems the two are closely related..

When I check resistance between negative battery post and cable I am getting .65 on auxiliary battery & ~ .26 on the battery in bay… Does this mean anything to you guys?
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Torque wrench no required, but a torx bit or screw driver to fit those screws yes. watch some vids and let the others respond before tearing into it!

as to the wire and disconnecting the OP, yes it will kill the engine. the PCM reads the timing and rpm from that sensor along with the crank sensor at the crank pulley. clean the area off with some brake cleaner (not getting any into the upper intake) check to see if the leak is there or on the fuel shut off solenoid (round thing just to the right of the sensor)

with a leak, DO NOT run the engine with the lower intake removed. if already pulled, re-install the lower section so that you can use and flat piece of board or steel plate the choke off the engine in the event of a RUNNAWAY condition!

moving the harness in that are and the glow are acting up says there is a short in that area of the harness. most likely insulation has been saturated with oil and fuel where the wires are bare and touching. you'll want to get in there and pull the covering off tracing each wire looking for a bare spot and shorts.


as for the resistance on the battery cables, take a look at the crimped lugs on each end and see what condition they are in. look for any corrosion. remove each connection (battery and other end) and clean well both the cable end and bolt / stud where it connects at, then re-test.
 
dbrannon79 said:
OP = optic sensor. the connector you posted a photo of on the IP (injection pump) here is a photo of the noise filter inline on the harness to the OP.

View attachment 72864
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Ok great let me do some more poking around & I will let you know what’s up!

seems as if the leak is from the OP as the fluid is within the connector housing But I will verify it’s not the other thing You mentioned.

luckily, I was able to fiddle with the wires and find power getting thru the relay to the glow plugs.. but it is inconsistent & only when I mess with the wires in a certain way. I believe it’s the ground wire. The wires into the connector look very kinked tho… Guess I’ll start back from the connector harness and work towards the glow plug connector…

Anyways , looks like I have a few problems I need to address.

now that I’m looking around, seems like I need to do the valve cover gasket on driver side.. as it’s got a slight leak at one of the nuts.Fun!
 
just a heads up. if the fuel is coming up from inside the connector where the pins are and not around the o-ring seal at the IP housing, the optic sensor will need replacement. this might require you to pull the IP and send it to a shop as it has to be aligned inside the pump.
 
dbrannon79 said:
just a heads up. if the fuel is coming up from inside the connector where the pins are and not around the o-ring seal at the IP housing, the optic sensor will need replacement. this might require you to pull the IP and send it to a shop as it has to be aligned inside the pump.
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It’s hard to tell but it seems like fuel is inside the connector… that must mean the optic sensor needs replacing too..
 
KyleH said:
It’s hard to tell but it seems like fuel is inside the connector… that must mean the optic sensor needs replacing too..
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do you have any advice on how to verify if it is indeed coming from the Op or just the failed O-ring?
Clean it up and start her and see what happens I guess is the obvious?

thanks for bearing with my inexperience!

looks like I may have the glow plug relay figured out … the contacts in the connector itself are pretty spread out..probing them to push them closer together.. seems like that’s the contact needed & getting power to glow plugs… still unsure about the charging system but I suppose the batts should be fully charged / tested under load to make sure in that realm.

I appreciate all your guys help! Truly helping me through the process & giving me some hope.

looks like my next mission is to determine whether or not I need to have the OP repaired… and also address this leaking valve cover…
 
Sounds like your making good progress :)

Yep clean everything up with some brake cleaner to remove all the diesel residue. use the compresser blow gun to dry it all up afterwards. gather what you need to shut it down by means of choking off the intake incase of runnaway. crank her up and watch closely. that area of the IP shouldn't have any pressure on it other than what your lift pump near the fuel tank can apply to it. so you can energize the lift pump without cranking and watch for a leak to appear.
 
what year was you rig again? if it lift pump isn't wired to run with the key on I can tell you how to manually energize it and not have the engine running.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Sounds like your making good progress :)

Yep clean everything up with some brake cleaner to remove all the diesel residue. use the compresser blow gun to dry it all up afterwards. gather what you need to shut it down by means of choking off the intake incase of runnaway. crank her up and watch closely. that area of the IP shouldn't have any pressure on it other than what your lift pump near the fuel tank can apply to it. so you can energize the lift pump without cranking and watch for a leak to appear.
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Solid thank you!!
 
KyleH: ignore my comment for now, continue chasing the leak as being told. This must be solved first.


Hey guys- non running from no OS is indicator of failed CPS/CPS circuit right? Once the leak is solved walk him through testing CPS?
 
iirc when unplugging the OS connector while running it will abruptly kill the engine but will start up again with a longer cranking time leaving it unplugged as long as the CPS (crank position sensor) is operational. KyleH can possibly do this checking for the leak so that he can watch and see if the fuel is pushing through from inside the OS connector on the IP.
 
Ok, couldn’t cant recall unplugging one while running. I suggest one task at a time. When you fully understand both from experience a person could juggle the two without confusion, but being new to both - finish the known critical item, then addresses the second possibility.
 
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