Help to Identify engine in my rig in preparation for some TLC

[dbrannon79]

Hello all! I wanted to try and identify my engine to see if it is in fact the original to the truck. I'm preparing to gather some parts to do the balancer and possibly the timing chain if needed. I haven't needed to do any of this to my rig since I bought it, but figured I better start prepping for it before I get caught with my pants down! LOL.

I was searching up some of the parts and it seems that a person cannot find a Delco HB available. I did find the part number though. 10154688, but I can only find the dorman brand looking on various sites including RA. I might have to save up some extra coins for the fluidamper, RA is selling the dorman brand for over $350 now !!

I was planning on stopping by the car wash later this evening and spray down all the areas where the block castings and date codes are on the engine so I could get the numbers off of it. I had gotten the block cast numbers off from it in the past finding that it's a 929 block, but I would like to know if this is the engine in it from factory since my rig now has 290k now.

what areas should I look and how would I read such numbers to see the date codes and what not for my engine?

 

[ak diesel driver]

Back of engine passenger side near bell housing

 

[dbrannon79]

Yeah, I think that's where I remember seeing the #'s on this 6.2 block. I will post them up if I can get a clear pic and maybe someone can tell me how to read them and know if this is the factory engine.

 

[Will L.]

Don’t waste time/money with doorman. 30,000 miles is usually mad for them.

 

[dbrannon79]

@Will L. Yep that's so true. I wanted to find the GM or Delco one but I fear it has been discontinued. leaving the only good option for our trucks to the fluidampr. but I'm sure if RA is selling the HB in the doorman flavor for over $350, Lord knows what the Delco one is priced at. might as well go big or go home LOL.

 

[dbrannon79]

any recommendations on flavors of timing chain kits? if this engine does in fact have 290k on it. would I need to replace the gears too? I have heard talk before about only needing the chain.

I also remember seeing someone on here installing a chain tensioner too. don't know where that was unless I was dreaming....

 

[DieselAmateur]

I don't like shopping on Amazon but here's a genuine AC delco balancer for $90. Says it ships in 3-4 weeks but way cheaper than $350...

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10154688-Original-Equipment-Crankshaft/dp/B0049Z68VM

 

[Will L.]

GM unit IS AC Delco. Gm makes body panels and seats. Almost all real the parts are made by companies for gm.
I never looked if 6.2 & 6.5 balancer is same or not.
AC Delco is making them for GEP now (optimizers)

With near 300k- your engine will not out last an AC Delco. If you are 100% you will get another 6.2/ 6.5 then yes a fluidampr. If not and when this engine lets loose you are done with them- no way

 

[dbrannon79]

I don't like shopping on Amazon but here's a genuine AC delco balancer for $90. Says it ships in 3-4 weeks but way cheaper than $350...

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10154688-Original-Equipment-Crankshaft/dp/B0049Z68VM

I had looked at that one, but some of the questions mentioned a dorman in the box. I suppose with their return policy I could try and order one. if it looks suspicious I should be able to return it. Here is one of the questions that was on that listing.

 

[Will L.]

Delco from Amazon is roll of the dice I wouldn’t take

 

[dbrannon79]

I'll do some searching online and see what comes up. I did a little already and found Summit shows it but is back ordered till March!!

I still have some time on my current one so there's no immediate rush to find one lol.

I won't get to look for casting numbers tonight. have to work late and wont get out till after dark. I'll try again tomorrow to get pics, if not, for sure this weekend I will have the cast numbers and date code to share and see if it's truly the factory engine under the power barn!!

 

[dbrannon79]

How legit is the site OEMCATS dot COM? I found a listing and it shows several shops from all over having them in stock. one is within driving distance from me. the price also seems too good to be true at $62. and some change.

 

[DieselAmateur]

I didn't bother looking at the reviews, good catch

Here's a link to a genuine one from an authorized GEP dealer, still cheaper than the Dorman and in stock

Vibration Damper, 6.5L

Real4WD - 5743228 - Vibration Damper, 6.5L 2815014112138, NSN 2815-01-411-2138

real4wd.com

I also have a used balancer from an optimizer takeout that I won't be re-using on the new build. If you don't want to purchase a new balancer that will outlast the current engine I'll happily send it your way for the cost of shipping, not doing me any good sitting here

 

[dbrannon79]

I finally got around to trying to take a pic of the date code on my engine. it's hard to get in there with a flashlight and my phone, but here is a pic.

it looks to be ether "0015" I can't really tell if the first digit is a letter like "C" or "G", but I think this block is original to my truck. let me know what you all think. I do know that the block cast is a 929.

 

[dbrannon79]

Here are the cast numbers on the 6.2 I have on the stand. I can't figure out the date code since it only has two numbers with dashes. "9--2" it also has "80" stamped up near there the oil pump drive cover is toward the drivers side. Here are those pics if someone can figure out the age of this block. one thing to note. this block has a two piece rear main seal.

 

[dbrannon79]

Ok folks, since I have confirmed that the engine I have in my rig is the original for my truck being at 291,000 miles now, I am putting together a parts list and have a couple of questions.

just the other day we were talking about taking a vacation this summer, I had a wild idea of entering the rig into the 2023 Hot Rod power tour that would involve driving about 3,500 miles in about 10 days for us going from Texas up though Georgia, the Carolina's, and Tennessee. Something I have never done before. LOL I thought to my self what all would I need to do the help insure my rig would make the trip..... not that we would actually do this, but I would like to have a more piece of mind that she'll take the family across the states safely. Lord knows I would absolutely hate to have to be towed home at 2,000 some miles away!!

1. all rubber coolant hoses, upper and lower rad hoses mainly. heater hoses have already been replaced.
2. Timing chain
3. balancer and crank pulley
4. oil cooler lines
5. drive shaft u-joints
6. fix A/C
7. check brake operation.
8. collecting spare parts like belts, lift pump, alternator, and other misc items.

on the oil cooler lines, I had already cut the factory rubber off the hard lines and clamped new rubber, but I think I would want to have a good set made up, but am wondering what size thread ports are on the block and how would I connect to the factory cooler? making a set of hydraulic lines would be simple but I don't know what the threaded ports are on the block or on the cooler.

the other thought that worries me is the injection pump. it is working fine now and has never given me any issues, but I do know it's got some miles under it's belt. are there things I can do to insure it stays alive other than keeping the fuel additives? I'm not ready to replace it and when that day comes I would like to have the means to convert it to a mechanical DB2.

 

[DieselAmateur]

the '95 engine has 3/8" NPT ports in the block for the oil cooler lines. Later blocks use 1/2" NPT ports. So you'd want two 90* fittings going from 3/8" NPT to 1/2" or 5/8" JIC fittings.

For the oil cooler, ditch the original factory one with the weird ORB ports and get a new one with 1/2" NPT ports. For added insurance get it coated by Chris. Then it's much easier to get the NPT to JIC fittings and have hoses made.

You'd have to pull the lower intake to see the IP, but if you want to do so to take a look at the tag on the IP and see the date code. It was probably warrantied/ replaced at some point which may give you an estimate on how much mileage is on it so far.

If you're going on that long a trip, see what funds you can get for a better breathing turbo. Driving that many miles in summertime temps with the puny GM turbo is not setting yourself up for success.

 

[dbrannon79]

This poor rig might get 15ish miles put on her a day just going back and fourth to work. LOL it takes me almost 6 months to accumulate 3000 miles between oil changes. haha.

I do recall finding the tag on the IP and I think I had taken a pic of it. I will have to dig though my phone to see if I still have it, but something tells me that the date stamped on the tag (blue or green iirc) was in the early 2000's year.

I would like to replace the turbo with something like an HX35 but so far it's been doing fine though I drive like grandpa down the road except for when I'm running late getting to work LOL.

I will look for the IP tag pic or try to get another one and post it up.

 

[Will L.]

Looking through your signature line…

I don’t trust GM factory gauges. I would push towards a descent aftermarket temp gauge tapped in the right rear head. I plan to go one (big) step farther on temp monitoring with a 220-225 sensor that will set off a big flashy light and buzzer warning for over temp. Also going to tie in low coolant sensor since loss of coolant wont show high temperature while the engine cooks if you pop a hose.

Low oil pressure/ volume is the other thing I am adding to the buzzer& light show.
I know Leroy sells the aftermarket oil cooler lines, and many are happy with them.
Hmmwvs and hummers use hydraulic hose similar to what you find on a backhoe and steel fittings. So no one ever had a hose failure on them unless a bullet hits it. I see no reason to not go that route.

At 291,000 - you need to be checking that oil level at every fill up.
Do not expect a ton more miles from it. Depending on your new engine build, how soon you can afford to do it and if you can afford the truck out of commission an extended time while doing it, is really the biggest factor if making the trip is wise or not.

Honestly you are just doing one oil change before and one after the trip so it shouldn’t be any worse than normal use. Think about buying any used rig- you prefer to have it all hiway miles than city miles. Why? It is easier on any rig to just cruise than to stop and start a million times.

 

[dbrannon79]

Oil consumption is not that bad though I don't go on long trips. it will use about 1-1/2 to 2 quarts in between an oil change. I would think it would use more oil on a long trip constantly running. oil pressure usually stays just under 40 psi when up above idle but will drop to around 25ish maybe slightly less sitting at a stop.

I have to admit I have not spent the time to install the gauge on the drinkers side head even though I have one in my garage waiting to be installed! the pressurized coolant bottle does have a low coolant warning sensor in it and it does work, there's been a couple of times it's came on in the past with me not watching the water level.

Yeah, if it were to go out of commission for a while I do have my dodge pickup and the jetta (once the flywheel gets replaced) but getting that 6.2 up and ready to use would take me quite a while. sure I could skip a lot and take a gamble by just doing gaskets and installing but my hope is to be able to put a little more than that into it lol.

I like the buzzer light show idea. that would be helpful especially if when others drive it like my son or wife (she says she wouldn't set foot into the drivers seat haha)

I did locate the pic I took of the tag on my IP. you can't see a date on there, only the serial number and the part number However there is a sticker barcode on the base of the pump right where the bolts are holding it to the timing cover. I shot a pic of it also. it shows a date of June 8th 2010. so I would assume with a 13 year old pump it has ether exceeded or is just about reached 150,000 miles in it's life. whats the average life span of the DS4 IP?