ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Fuel quality and pressure are the biggest variables. I had over 200k on the one in my 96. It was still working fine when the engine died.
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Help to Identify engine in my rig in preparation for some TLC
- Thread starter dbrannon79
- Start date
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yup- 300,000 is the target to shoot for, 250,000 is more likely. Filters, pressure and added lube. But that leaves a non rebuilder usually, in other words you need new head and rotor so normally a new ip was better choice.
2 quarts in 3,000 miles isn’t horrible, but yes you will go through more on the interstate drive. Thats why the fuel fill up also includes the oil.
Now, my name is Will, so I have to side track and write a mini book, so…
This is where using a provent 200 comes into play long term. Getting the REAL Mann/ Hummel unit with filter will set you back around $200. Or get a knock off until for about $40, and throw away the fake filter it comes with, dont get the stainless steel one either. Buy a REAL Mann/Hummel filter for the cko body. That will be around $70- so your in for about $110 on ebay. (So save $90-$100 getting cko housing) then buy a couple feet of 1/2” oil hose and few feet of 1” oil hose from parts store (around $20) for going engine to provent and provent to intake hose pre turbo (inplace of cdr locations) and drain, and and a 1/2” steel ball valve with a barb fitting on one end from amazon for $15 and a $5 plug to screw on the other end incase the valve gets bumped open and to keep everything clean. So now you are $150 for everything (or $250 if buying real housing).
Some guys use a short hose and go to a can there. Long term best is return to the engine, but that can be a pain. You can do it to the turbo drain back hose down low- but it’s a pain to fit it all. You just have to add the check valve from Mann/ Hummel. Then you never drain and pour in - it just auto drains into the pan.
NEVER run the knock off filters- that is a key of how good they work. Many people show minimal results, but look into it and you’ll find the cko filters in use.
Provent does not eliminate you burning oil. It dramatically reduces it, like 99% often. You just drain that caught oil into a clean container and dump it back in the engine.
Descent oil is $10 a quart, up to $20 for the really good stuff. THANKS BIDEN. Anyways, that $150 investment means the 2 quarts you loose (expect 2.5 on the road trip) every oil change means the cko pays for itself at 50,000 miles use, or 25,000 miles if you run top end oil.
If you add this onto this old engine it will start out helping save oil consumption right away obviously. On a brand new engine where the provent helps (because it won’t have any blow by yet) is on the interstate you are no longer using the cdr- so you are pulling full “vacuum” in the crank case- that keeps the amount of grime away from the top of the cylinder and valves so it slows the wear there. It’s long known oil deposits are a major cause of burning valve seats and upper ring wear. The oil moisture allows more carbon from the burned fuel to stick. No oil means less carbon sticking around so the wear on rings and valve seat is less. (This part also can be achieved by wmi as an option). But adding this to your old engine now- means it can pay for itself with this engine, and get installed on the new one later.
Not trying to be a wise guy- but for tree hugger friendly folks it is cleaner emissions and less oil consumption too.
Also the more turbo, the more this helps. Not just more boost on gm turbo, but say ATT lower boost psi, but more volume- the increased air going into the system means more oil getting sucked through the cdr. Dudes that run a bigger turbo and higher boost numbers it helps dramatically more.
Ok. 1:47 am, time to end the book. Haha.
2 quarts in 3,000 miles isn’t horrible, but yes you will go through more on the interstate drive. Thats why the fuel fill up also includes the oil.
Now, my name is Will, so I have to side track and write a mini book, so…
This is where using a provent 200 comes into play long term. Getting the REAL Mann/ Hummel unit with filter will set you back around $200. Or get a knock off until for about $40, and throw away the fake filter it comes with, dont get the stainless steel one either. Buy a REAL Mann/Hummel filter for the cko body. That will be around $70- so your in for about $110 on ebay. (So save $90-$100 getting cko housing) then buy a couple feet of 1/2” oil hose and few feet of 1” oil hose from parts store (around $20) for going engine to provent and provent to intake hose pre turbo (inplace of cdr locations) and drain, and and a 1/2” steel ball valve with a barb fitting on one end from amazon for $15 and a $5 plug to screw on the other end incase the valve gets bumped open and to keep everything clean. So now you are $150 for everything (or $250 if buying real housing).
Some guys use a short hose and go to a can there. Long term best is return to the engine, but that can be a pain. You can do it to the turbo drain back hose down low- but it’s a pain to fit it all. You just have to add the check valve from Mann/ Hummel. Then you never drain and pour in - it just auto drains into the pan.
NEVER run the knock off filters- that is a key of how good they work. Many people show minimal results, but look into it and you’ll find the cko filters in use.
Provent does not eliminate you burning oil. It dramatically reduces it, like 99% often. You just drain that caught oil into a clean container and dump it back in the engine.
Descent oil is $10 a quart, up to $20 for the really good stuff. THANKS BIDEN. Anyways, that $150 investment means the 2 quarts you loose (expect 2.5 on the road trip) every oil change means the cko pays for itself at 50,000 miles use, or 25,000 miles if you run top end oil.
If you add this onto this old engine it will start out helping save oil consumption right away obviously. On a brand new engine where the provent helps (because it won’t have any blow by yet) is on the interstate you are no longer using the cdr- so you are pulling full “vacuum” in the crank case- that keeps the amount of grime away from the top of the cylinder and valves so it slows the wear there. It’s long known oil deposits are a major cause of burning valve seats and upper ring wear. The oil moisture allows more carbon from the burned fuel to stick. No oil means less carbon sticking around so the wear on rings and valve seat is less. (This part also can be achieved by wmi as an option). But adding this to your old engine now- means it can pay for itself with this engine, and get installed on the new one later.
Not trying to be a wise guy- but for tree hugger friendly folks it is cleaner emissions and less oil consumption too.
Also the more turbo, the more this helps. Not just more boost on gm turbo, but say ATT lower boost psi, but more volume- the increased air going into the system means more oil getting sucked through the cdr. Dudes that run a bigger turbo and higher boost numbers it helps dramatically more.
Ok. 1:47 am, time to end the book. Haha.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Thanks @Will L. the oil catch can completely slipped my mind. I am adding that to the list, oh yeah, and a new starter too 
I probably also need to at least check the injectors, they were replaced a while back but it never hurts. most all of these parts can be re-used on the other engine when that time comes, that is a plus.
the 6.2 I have has a DB2 IP on it that I know nothing about. once I replace my starter I can use the old starter on it to see about doing compression tests and seeing if it will run before I do any sort of tear down. that's one of the reasons I haven't done anything to the engine yet.
I probably also need to at least check the injectors, they were replaced a while back but it never hurts. most all of these parts can be re-used on the other engine when that time comes, that is a plus.
the 6.2 I have has a DB2 IP on it that I know nothing about. once I replace my starter I can use the old starter on it to see about doing compression tests and seeing if it will run before I do any sort of tear down. that's one of the reasons I haven't done anything to the engine yet.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
For a mild and budget turbo upgrade how does a guy put together a hybrid 35/40/12cm like TSP recommends for these rigs? I could probably pickup a used decent HX35 off of the car-part site like I did when I got the GM-8 paid $50 for it at the time and the down pipe adapter off the jungle site. if I went that route what model dodge would I need to look for that would have a 12cm turbo stock.
I don't mind if I have to put a rebuild kit in to it as I'm fairly handy doing that kind of stuff. granted I doubt I would be able to come up with all the parts to make it the hybrid one all at once but at least have the base line of the 12cm stock one for a foundation. hoping that same turbo will be well suited for the 6.2 later in the future.
I don't mind if I have to put a rebuild kit in to it as I'm fairly handy doing that kind of stuff. granted I doubt I would be able to come up with all the parts to make it the hybrid one all at once but at least have the base line of the 12cm stock one for a foundation. hoping that same turbo will be well suited for the 6.2 later in the future.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Well I can partially scratch one item off the list. I got the temp gauge installed using the port in the rear if the drinkers side head. I definitely will have to go back in and rethread the port in the head. I pulled the plug in the head and discovered it was just barely in there and the threads were galded up!! good thing that plug never poped out on me. I don't have a 3/8 pipe tap in my collection and no one has one in stock locally so I will have to order one and get another 3/8 to 1/8 reducer for the sensor.
you have automatic transmission on yours.... i would like to go with a 14cm at least, better with an exaust machimed to turbine shaft wheel 67x76mm 10 blade .... billet 60x80mm to compressor side, it will spool up very quickly, and a good exaust ratio, ...if you add fuel you will must work on wastegate for lower the pressure
mail me for find turbo internal part for cheap
you can check easy with a scan tool, if DES timing is closed to ACT timing, timing chain is in spec.....
but if you need change because you are working on the area, or is near to go out of spec because is stretced, ... why change chain only, for the tedios job i will change all, remenber to change woodruff key on camshaft and crankshaft also
take kit CLOYES C3097, there isn't a huge saving in getting the individual pieces
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