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Help! First drive in 6 months didn't go so well.

I agree Bison, but if its enough restriction to stall the truck, I would think his pump would be deadheaded, bringing his pressure back upwards closer to that of wait to start, then the same 4 he had at idle, and when it stalled.
You got a good point Matt,but if it would be a IP prob he would get codes.
It wont hurt to check fuel flow at the IP inlet,Maybe he has air in the fuel and dont recognize it.

Intermittend Shut off sol could cause it too. APP,PMD, grounds
Ahh,so many possibilitys.:D
 
You got a good point Matt,but if it would be a IP prob he would get codes.
It wont hurt to check fuel flow at the IP inlet,Maybe he has air in the fuel and dont recognize it.

Intermittend Shut off sol could cause it too. APP,PMD, grounds
Ahh,so many possibilitys.:D

I don't think IP prob either, just threw the test out there...

Seems really familiar though, gradual loss of power until stall.

Schiker, if you havn't already gone through the recent ground thread, remove, wire brush, and re-attach to mirror like clean attachment points. Do so.

This is necessary maintainance for all of our 6.5's.

Battery leads, battery bolt mod highly recommended for sure and consistant connections,

pull all your high amp fuses and clean those spades up shiny.

grab the fuse puller and pull, inspect and re-install every fuse, look for coorosion or something out of the obvoius.

As Turbine Doc says, this is necessary preventive, sometime corrective maintanance.

Without a solid clean ground/electrical base, its impossible to diagnose the rest.

Also can't hurt to undo the pmd extensions, look for abnormalties, and re-attach.

Sometimes unhooking, and re-hookingup harnesses can clear away the coorosion and restore contact.

You may have an issue where everything is making contact, but can't carry appropriate signals.

Like Bison said, alot of possibilites.

It may be a simple R&R part, but doing all these good maintanance items will prevent further problems, and may help solve current.

This is the order of operations I start with when troubleshooting ANYTHING on my rig.
 
I would also troubleshoot the entire wastegate solonoid / vacuum pump vacuum / vacuum lines condition for the black smoke issue.

Try moving the wastegate with your hand to make sure its not stuck.

YOu could wire it shut and test drive it to see if black smoke conditinon changes as a test.


I just don't see that making the vehicle stall though, but defanately sounds turbo related if the intake is not restricted. Not sure what else it could be.
 
Ya beat me to it....i was just going to ask what checklist. I'll check it out. Fuel filter is 6 months old, but only has 50 kms on it. Was replaced when tryinmg to fix other stalling issue which turned out to be PMD. PMD is still on the IP, funny thing is the relocate kit and new pmd just showed up today and i was going to do that while doing the exhaust at work. But it isn't the same stalling like it was doing to me with the pmd, it was just plain dieing then. No stumble or anything. Now for the checklist.....

Where did you get the new PMD from?
 
Checked a few more things. Heading out to get a gauge right now.

2b] Do you get a steady flow of fuel from the water drain (T-handle) ? Yes
2e] Do you hear a vacuum (hiss) when you remove the fuel cap? Yes




No hiss, just fuel. At this point it will start and idle for about 5 seconds then die. I can do whatever i want with the gas pedal and the engine does squat, just idles....till it dies. Then start it back up and do it all over again.



This happened to me before.... When I was plowing.... I. I did remove all relay's, clean contacts, and everything underhood fuse panel. This is why a 100% clean electrical ground base is critical.

All I can remember is I finished plowing that storm.......... Sounds so familiar............

Make sure you add some winter additives to your 6months old (summer blend) fuel... even though you show fuel pressure... ........ So familiar.....

Alot of moisture/coorosion can build in 6 months of not driving... You need to re-clean EVERYTHING again. Battery terminals, grounds, relays, high current fuses, fuses.... 6 months ago without driving is not an acceptable answer to pass the test.

Make sure you REMOVE, WIRE BRUSH, and RE-install too. Don't cheat :)

Pay close attention to the 2 ground straps from block to cab and block to frame pass rear intake botls. If the PCM isn't getting good ground or current (ECM Fuse underhood fuse box) all sorts of codeless things can happen.
 
Looks like i'll be busy tomorrow. Pmd is from Pensacola diesel. Have done the 2000 rpm test when i bought the truck and all checked out fine. At this point trying anything and driving it is out of the question, can't even keep it running long enough to put it in gear. I'll get to it in the morning and let you know what happens. Thanks for all the help so far guys!
 
This happened to me before.... When I was plowing.... I. I did remove all relay's, clean contacts, and everything underhood fuse panel. This is why a 100% clean electrical ground base is critical.

All I can remember is I finished plowing that storm.......... Sounds so familiar............

Make sure you add some winter additives to your 6months old (summer blend) fuel... even though you show fuel pressure... ........ So familiar.....

Alot of moisture/coorosion can build in 6 months of not driving... You need to re-clean EVERYTHING again. Battery terminals, grounds, relays, high current fuses, fuses.... 6 months ago without driving is not an acceptable answer to pass the test.

Make sure you REMOVE, WIRE BRUSH, and RE-install too. Don't cheat :)

Pay close attention to the 2 ground straps from block to cab and block to frame pass rear intake botls. If the PCM isn't getting good ground or current (ECM Fuse underhood fuse box) all sorts of codeless things can happen.
4 friggin posts in a row,no wonder they call you post whore:D:D
 
4 friggin posts in a row,no wonder they call you post whore:D:D

Trying to help a brother out :thumbsup: :iagree:

Looks like i'll be busy tomorrow. Pmd is from Pensacola diesel. Have done the 2000 rpm test when i bought the truck and all checked out fine. At this point trying anything and driving it is out of the question, can't even keep it running long enough to put it in gear. I'll get to it in the morning and let you know what happens. Thanks for all the help so far guys!

Thats actually a good thing, as it will make it alot easier to know when you've made progress / change. Make sure to keep battery charger on those batts. These things wont crank over too much without charging in between, and they say running truck with dead batteries is unhealthy for the alternator.

Just for you Bison I combined 2 of my posts into one. THere :)
 
Pulled off the pmd extension and checked them and they are good. Ripped off every ground i could find and cleaned them all up. Unhooked all battery connections and made sure all was still clean. Ripped off air intake to the turbo and nothing. Pulled the silicone sleeve between the turbo and the intake just to see if maybe something was jammed in the turbo restricting the air, but no go. Pulled every fuse and relay and cleaned up. Anyone want to buy a truck? I think a Duramax is in my near future.
 
Pulled off the pmd extension and checked them and they are good. Ripped off every ground i could find and cleaned them all up. Unhooked all battery connections and made sure all was still clean. Ripped off air intake to the turbo and nothing. Pulled the silicone sleeve between the turbo and the intake just to see if maybe something was jammed in the turbo restricting the air, but no go. Pulled every fuse and relay and cleaned up. Anyone want to buy a truck? I think a Duramax is in my near future.

100 bux :) I heard 6.5's were junk.

Don't give up bro... Did you check the wastegate for easy moving?
 
just think how well your getting to know your truck. If you buy a dmax youll have to start all over when you have a problem and you will have one just a matter of time.
 
whoa,lets back up a little bit.
I read the complete tread again,I musta missed the black smoke mentioned.Stepid me.

I wonder if you got a rodent family or paper wasps that have build a home in your fender intake during the 6 months the truck has been resting in peace.
 
Ripped off all the air intake to the turbo to make sure. Then took out the sleeve between the turbo and the intake just to make sure something hadn't made it into the turbo and jammed it or something. Still no go. Truck wasn't actually resting in peace. Went out and started it every 2 weeks and let it run at least a half hour and drove it around the yard so the brakes and everything didn't sieze up on me. Thats why this is so frustrating. Drove it around the yard 2 weeks ago when i was swapping the grill and bumpers and interior from my other truck and it ran fine.
 
Just for shits and giggles, i went out and got a new fuel filter, 30 litres of fresh fuel, and a bottle of diesel fuel conditioner (supposed to get rid of water). Kind of wondered when this filter squirts 6" high when i open up the bleeder where the other one just trickled out, but must just be a difference in the filters. Still does the same thing, start and run for 5 seconds and dies.
 
I haven't seen where you checked out the fuel line between the filter manager and IP as well as the IP screen as Bison suggested.

Leo
 
Ripped off all the air intake to the turbo to make sure. Then took out the sleeve between the turbo and the intake just to make sure something hadn't made it into the turbo and jammed it or something. Still no go. Truck wasn't actually resting in peace. Went out and started it every 2 weeks and let it run at least a half hour and drove it around the yard so the brakes and everything didn't sieze up on me. Thats why this is so frustrating. Drove it around the yard 2 weeks ago when i was swapping the grill and bumpers and interior from my other truck and it ran fine.
Did you actually run it with the filter off, i was more thinking of a restriction in the fender itself.a plugged exhaust (mice) does funny things too,I had that once. Cute little mices dont take that long to drag a ton of stuff in there,they got not much else to do:h
 
Tried running it every step of the way, and always did the exact same thing. Is there a relay or switch or something somewhere that would turn the fuel on for startup but turn it off once its running for some reason, cause thats exactly what it feels like, although i still have fuel pressure?!??
 
Tried running it every step of the way, and always did the exact same thing. Is there a relay or switch or something somewhere that would turn the fuel on for startup but turn it off once its running for some reason, cause thats exactly what it feels like, although i still have fuel pressure?!??

Fuel shutoff sol. fuse would do that, it should show a code 13 if it has a bad connection. It wouldn't hurt to pull it and clean the fuse spades. It's in the under hood fuse box.

Leo
 
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