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Help a Brother Out #2

When you say hub separately from drum I assume you mean the end of the axel is the hub...in redneck. The round thingy you put your bolts in so da axel don't fall out. Lol....that doesn't get hot .. maybe a little warm but not hot like the drum gets.. and remember the dust shield gets hot to
 
The drum won’t separate from the hub unless the wheel studs are driven out. You don’t want to do that

all you need to do to pull the hub/drum assembly to see the brakes it removed the bolts from the axle one the end of the hub after pulling the wheel off. Slide the axle out. Pull the axle nut and then carefully slide off the heavy drum and hub but as your sliding it off the outer bearing will fall out. Catch it and wrap it in a rag to keep dirt off it. Set the hub with the drum aside.
I know others will have a better explanation tho
 
I've mentioned before but it was bad tonight, the truck was dragging pretty bad I tried giving it more throttle . I pushed the pedal a considerable distance with no effect.. as in to response.. the RPMs didn't go up, no speed increase.. nothing . And to anyone who is trying to understand what I mean by dragging, (since the brake discussion may only be part of the problem) when accelerating it feels like there's a seriously heavy trailer behind me the trucks having trouble trying to pull ..and when it's like that when I get up to speed, and take my foot off the throttle it's like having your Jake brakes kick on in a 18 wheeler..it actually jerks you a little bit then slows down on its own without touching brake pedal....
 
From what your saying what gets hottest it sounds like the brake shoes are still dragging. With the brake line disconnected I’m suspicious of the parking brake cable. You can do two things here. Cut the cable as close to the back plate as possible. Or loosen the adjuster.

the way that is done is using two flat screwdrivers. As it it it will only turn in one direction (tightening). It will click like a ratchet as it tightened. There is a metal keeper with a spring holding it in place inside the drum. You have to use a smaller screwdriver to lift thekeeper from the adjuster then turn it the opposite direction to loosen up the brake shoes

look up some YouTube videos on adjusting drum brakes. They will give you a visual on what is needed
 
Stoney said:
I've mentioned before but it was bad tonight, the truck was dragging pretty bad I tried giving it more throttle . I pushed the pedal a considerable distance with no effect.. as in to response.. the RPMs didn't go up, no speed increase.. nothing . And to anyone who is trying to understand what I mean by dragging, (since the brake discussion may only be part of the problem) when accelerating it feels like there's a seriously heavy trailer behind me the trucks having trouble trying to pull ..and when it's like that when I get up to speed, and take my foot off the throttle it's like having your Jake brakes kick on in a 18 wheeler..it actually jerks you a little bit then slows down on its own without touching brake pedal....
Click to expand...
It sounds like maybe I’d you messed with the adjuster you might have tightened it. The brake line is disconnected from the WC? Or you left the bleeder open? If you pinched the line and left it all connected. Fluid will make its way past the pinch point and not release the brake
 
I had left the brake line connected but loose thinking it would be ok.. I took it all the way out when we were up on the hill tonight....after sitting 2 hours or so it seemed better on way home .. but as I said Idrum was hot as hell when we got home...I'll do e-brake tomorrow if it's not raining to hard... And back off the brakes again...the bitch is I know this is only part of my problems... Doesn't explain the RPMs not going up and no acceleration when I push the pedal at times... Gonna get the accelerator grisley sent me put in tomorrow to hopefully...
 
Okay just an update..
I got it under the truck and backed the brakes off all the way with the adjuster... As I said last night the brake line is totally disconnected and away from the master cylinder... Took her for a drive that drum is staying nice and cold now... The passenger side one stays pretty cold too maybe a tiny bit warm such as from the brakes engaging properly I would think...... However the passenger side front one is getting a lot hotter than the driver side one... Not as hot as that drum was getting but
 
jack up the front and check both wheels for a difference in drag. then pump the brakes and check again. my friend had a rather odd issue where both front wheels on his Tahoe would be fine on short drives, but later on a longer drive his right front wheel would start to drag. we kept trying to figure it out but every time we would jack it up we couldn't find anything wrong. bled them several times too. the last time it happened he just pulled up the the house and the wheel was smoking and had melted his wheel speed sensor.

we jacked it up while it was hot and found that the brake hose was blocked internally. replaced it and problem solved! this all happened after he had already taken it to a shop and had the brakes replaced. we ended up replacing the caliper and pads the next day because it had gotten so hot that I feared the heat damaged it all.

in conclusion, if you find that both wheels feel the same turning with little resistance. take it for a drive and check it again with it up in the air. when it feels like one has more resistance, open the bleeder and spin it. if that frees it up, then aim the parts cannon at the brake hose.
 
dbrannon79 said:
jack up the front and check both wheels for a difference in drag. then pump the brakes and check again. my friend had a rather odd issue where both front wheels on his Tahoe would be fine on short drives, but later on a longer drive his right front wheel would start to drag. we kept trying to figure it out but every time we would jack it up we couldn't find anything wrong. bled them several times too. the last time it happened he just pulled up the the house and the wheel was smoking and had melted his wheel speed sensor.

we jacked it up while it was hot and found that the brake hose was blocked internally. replaced it and problem solved! this all happened after he had already taken it to a shop and had the brakes replaced. we ended up replacing the caliper and pads the next day because it had gotten so hot that I feared the heat damaged it all.

in conclusion, if you find that both wheels feel the same turning with little resistance. take it for a drive and check it again with it up in the air. when it feels like one has more resistance, open the bleeder and spin it. if that frees it up, then aim the parts cannon at the brake hose.
Click to expand...
That's right and the cause is usually rust swelling the bracket on the hose. For a temporary fix you can pry the bracket opened a little and it will let the fluid flow freely. Problem could also be from a stuck caliper.
 
Once a long few years back I had done a front brake job for a guy and replaced his calipers. I had the curious cat moment and popped the piston from the caliper. You’d never imagine how much muddy crud was behind the piston!

I don’t know how a brake system gets all that crap in there but they do get nasty!!
 
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