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Help a Brother Out #2

dbrannon79 said:
I wish there was a sure fire way to test and rebuild if needed for the abs unit or completely remove and bypass it I think I would want to remove and bypass mine going back to old school proportioning valve

I feel like a old one from an 80’s 3500 would do the job
Click to expand...
That's what I just did on my 98 K1500. Proportioning valve off my 94 with the dump valve removed
 
If there is no drag at all (do a complete revolution on the tire). Use a flat screwdriver through the oval window on the backing plate near the bottom. The adjuster should only allow to turn it in one direction accompanied by a click sound. Do one click at a time checking until you can slightly feel the shoes begin to drag. Stop there and crank up spin tire and press the brake pedal. Still no stop. You have other problems
 
The last time I towed anything I pulled my daughter’s Jetta with a tow dollie from the next town, at one point I felt as I wasn’t gonna stop in time as the weight of the car felt like it was pushing me into the intersection from a 45mph to foot to the floor full stop !
 
dbrannon79 said:
If you can. Post a thread or message me on how you did it. What all was swapped n all. I’d like to do this. I would think a truck with a gas motor would be the same as long as it’s the same weight class?
Click to expand...
It was fairly easy, I used the proportioning valve off my 94 K2500 which is the one getting the Cummins transplant.( I have a hydroboost with proportioning valve for that). Left the lines from master cylinder on it so the fittings fit right on. Removed the dump valve for the rear antilock brakes (and cut that part of the bracket off) and bolted on the master cylinder attachment bolts leaving the existing bracket in place that holds the wiring harness. Massaged the line from the abs rear brakes to where the dump valve went. Front has separate lines which need to be teed together. The line to the R/F is 3/16" but the fitting thread is same size as a 1/4" line. Bought a 1/4" tee, then removed the short line to the L/F brake and made a new copper/nichol line with a 1/4" threaded end for the tee. Then made a short line from tee to front brake fitting on proportioning valve. I have a nice vise mounted brake flaring tool so the lines are easy to make. I then bled the brakes and done! If you block the brake pedal part way down you won't have to bleed the master cylinder. I use an electric vacuum pump with a quart reservoir, so I don't need help bleeding the brakes.
 
Okay I have a really dumb question... I pulled the ABS fuse out of the box under the hood earlier... Didn't notice this at the time... But that made the time on my stereo and my heat all turn off .and my electric windows.... What the f***??
 
Stoney said:
Okay I have a really dumb question... I pulled the ABS fuse out of the box under the hood earlier... Didn't notice this at the time... But that made the time on my stereo and my heat all turn off .and my electric windows.... What the f***??
Click to expand...
Reinstall that fuse and see if all goes back to working. If so leave the fuse in and disconnect all the wires from the abs unit
 
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