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Help a Brother Out #2

Drove it about 15 miles I just pulled into a gas station and thought about it.. I got it under the truck and felt the dust shields on the back.. the driver side one is warm passenger side one is Stone Cold. Keep in mind I'm feeling the dust shield not the drum.. but that tells me that that drone is probably hot with it being a dually it's kind of hard to get your hand in there...
 
Just got home dead quite here at night.. when I got out of the truck I thought one of my rear tires was leaking on the driver side because I could hear what I thought was hissing I didn't feel any air so I stuck my hand inside and that brake drum is smoking hot as in you cannot keep your hand on it for more than a couple seconds.. @MrMarty51 ... I would not think it would do any good to change that brake line if the wheel cylinder is leaking.. I'm not saying it doesn't need to be changed but what's to send to them bleeding it if the wheel cylinder is leaking won't it suck air right back in?
 
won't it suck air right back in

No. The system is pressure and then release pressure. The brake system will gravity bleed so a leak could be constant although slow. So it will not suck air in anywhere but the master cylinder.

You are going to have to pull that drum. Maybe just adjusted too tight but the shoes have likely overheated. You are sure it's brake fluid? Oil seals like to fail and oil up the brake shoes - then they do all kinds of weird like not stopping, falling apart, and binding up. Brake fluid ain't good for them either.

X2 on fixing this before bleeding the system as you may be replacing the wheel cylinder.

I am known to block the front wheels, raise the rear and spin the rear tires by hand. Then I adjust the drums to a slight drag every other oil change.

I was thinking for the throttle problem... if you have a laptop:


And a IR temp gun tool would let you see the brake temps without risk of burns.
 
Yeah, You need to figure out why that side is adjusted up so tight.
Pull both drums and make sure that the shoes with the shorter lining are on the forward sides.
If the opposite side is cold then that side is functioning as it should, hopefully.
 
100%
You HAVE TO fix that problem before bleeding because You’re gonna have to bleed after it gets fixed changing brake line.

Change that brake line and back off the adjustment a hair while it is apart it needed.
Those shoes are gonna be glazed up. Scuff with the finest sand paper you have. No sand paper drag a pocket knife backwards on it. Backwards as in opposite of shaving.

Did you ever get that caliper pin in place? Thats more dangerous than the brake drum issue imo.
 
Ok. Gonna cancel the appointment to flush it. I'm not off work again till Sunday so won't be able to do much till then. ( I have to leave by 2 to get there and it's dark out when I get home.)... @Will L. Yes I got the new pin in the caliper. Seemed to tighten in good . Gonna check them before I leave today...
Temp gun I don't have. Laptop we do have so diesel princess can help me with the Leroy software @War Wagon was talking about. But don't I need a special cable to hook it to the truck? Or can I Bluetooth it with the little micro mechanic thing I have for the OBD plug?
 
Can one of you help me verify the correct rear brake hose , wheel cylinders and metal brake line to rear wheel size?
It's a 97' c3500 crew cab dually 8ft box ..I Kno guys have said there's been mix ups with the wheel cylinders, stores selling ones for srw to guys that have dual rear wheel and vice versa...
Just a thought. Could the over load on the tranny from the brakes dragging have been what smoked my old tranny?
 
YES dragging brake will mess with transmission and work the he k out of the truck.
Your description of sometimes good sometimes bad fits a brake that drags some of the time.

I will leave parts question to those way better than me.

please check all the other caliper pins are secured. SO AWESOME that it didn’t damage the mount.

Once you have the rear line is repaired, I suggest having abs connected and the shop doing the flush/ repairs to verify abs bled properly. Maybe others have different opinion and reason? But since you have abs it should work- millions of these trucks were made and it worked for years. Especially since you are in a wet environment.
 
Dragging brakes sure would not do the transmixer much good.
I do know that to heat the fluid in a transmission to power brake it, but for only about 15 to 20 seconds at a time then let it cool a moment then hit it again until trans comes to operating temp. Used to do that in the shop but I would not do it to My own.
With brakes a dragging it might make the trans run a little warm but I dont think it would fry it.
 
Just a thought what would happen if I totally disconnected the rear brakes... Yes I realize that safety-wise that's not a great idea but it would tell me if the back brakes are the whole issue wouldn't it
 
Scratch that. Can't get the software. That shits expensive. Lol

This is an "Help a brother out" attempt to figure out what you need and can use on your truck. IMO this isn't as critical as brakes, but, will help with other problems you have. Aka Loan/borrow/donate/buy you one.
 
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