Heater hose replacement

[SnowDrift]

I'm planning to replace this with a hose without the factory quick connects. For those that have done this, is regular heater hose being used? The routing seems like it could cause a possible kink.

 

[DieselAmateur]

Yup I used just a regular heater hose. What helps is I got a 45 degree fitting for the thermostat crossover, it helps clear the A/C compressor better. Cut the hose where it's crimped at the firewall and just use a barb.

Some say the smaller line is important as a constriction and I've seen the hard line maintained with just rubber hose and hose clamps connecting it to the tstat crossover. I've never seen much of a difference or had an issue with the mod.

 

[Will L.]

In the fleet we did just that- cut the end of the hose off, replaced fitting with a 45° both ends male, Then a coupling, then a king nipple - all brass. Use quality clamps, use teflon on all threads. Because of the failed fittings and how annoying it was to replace them later, we learned to just do it day one before letting the truck start use. Fitting comes out in 3 seconds. Because we knew we would have to do it anyways- turns out to be labor savings from fleet standpoint.

When it was time to replace the hose itself we just used regular heater hose. Back when dexcool was inplace- all hoses at 100,000 miles. When we went back to original green- 99% the hoses lasted longer than the engine. The trucks we had that only got 10-15,000 miles a year we did new hoses on 7 year cycle in Vegas. Our Utah location with snow learned 6 years was better. More extreme temp change I suppose.

 

[SnowDrift]

The green heater hose connects by way of a clamp right to the heater core, so I'm having a hard time envisioning a 45 deg. at that end.

At the crossover end, I think you guys mean one of these in place of the straight barb, correct?

Will, are you using any of the factory aluminum tube that is bolted to the intake?

 

[ak diesel driver]

Never changed a hose yet 260k and more extreme temp changes. Same on my 96 @306k

 

[DieselAmateur]

Don't remove the hose at the heater core, cut the other end where it's crimped to the steel line. Leave as much hose on there as you can.

And correct that's the fitting for the crossover. I have a stainless steel one but an aluminum one may be better as dissimilar metals may not play nice together.

 

[SnowDrift]

Cut here where the blue line is?

 

[DieselAmateur]

Yep! And I believe on mine I just used a straight hose barb to connect to the new heater hose. Left the new hose a bit longer and let it make its own turn. Could also use a 45* there as Will suggested.

 

[SnowDrift]

Why not remove the green hose and just run new hose all the way? Or, run a short section to the aluminum line, clamp. The run another short section to the crossover?

 

[DieselAmateur]

Some do just that- short splices of hose at each end to keep the aluminum line and the constriction it provides.

My heater hose was fine at the firewall, and I didn't want to disturb something that wasn't bothering me. Ain't broke don't fix it approach.

 

[MrMarty51]

PO had eliminated the factory heater hose. He had run just plain old hose.
I recently replaced all the coolant hoses.
I dont remember exactly how I routed the hose from the firewall forward but there is two gentle 90* bends in it.
If I remember, tomorrow I’ll get a pic of it.

 

[dbrannon79]

Mine still has that green hose with the aluminum pipe up to where the quick connect was. the quick connect was replaced with a straight pipe to barb fitting and a short section of heater hose to couple the aluminum pipe to the barb. the pipe should have a bump where it locked in the quick connector that when a hose is slid over it and clamped, it won't come back off with the coolant pressure.

 

[SnowDrift]

Mine still has that green hose with the aluminum pipe up to where the quick connect was. the quick connect was replaced with a straight pipe to barb fitting and a short section of heater hose to couple the aluminum pipe to the barb. the pipe should have a bump where it locked in the quick connector that when a hose is slid over it and clamped, it won't come back off with the coolant pressure.

As much as I dislike multiple connection points due to potential leak points, I was thinking of doing something similar due to routing.

I have also been told about unicoils to help with the bends and to keep from kinking. Here is an image of it.

 

[dieselolds]

I posted some pictures for you on the other site too.Unicoils are your best bet.This is how I did it on my previous truck and my current 96.

 

[SnowDrift]

Thank you.

 

[dieselolds]

Thank you.

No problem.Anytime

 

[dieselolds]

Here are some unicoils I found on Amazon.These are Canadian prices.The last picture shows two 5/8 coils but are different prices and brands.

 

[EWC]

I normally take a hacksaw or whizzer to the lock collar and slit it along the length . Use a screwdriver and pry open the collar , it should fall off . After that it's hose replacement time .

 

[SnowDrift]

I normally take a hacksaw or whizzer to the lock collar and slit it along the length . Use a screwdriver and pry open the collar , it should fall off . After that it's hose replacement time .

Are you saying you keep the factory aluminum line, otherwise, then?

 

[MrMarty51]

See if the hose routing will show.
I used flash mode too.
Just too dark next to the garage. I’ll be moving the truck in the morning then might be able to get positioned where there’s more light.