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Heater Hose Quick Connect Coupler Leaking..... Again.

DieselSlug

DieselSlug

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Was wondering if there were more permanent fixes to the plastic "clip in" heater hose connection? It started leaking about 2 years ago. I bought the replacement kit from the Dealer, it came with a new nipple for the stat housing and a new plastic clip. It has always seeped a tiny bit, but now its a full bore drip requiring coolant top offs every other week. I really want to eliminate this connection, but i had the new nipple put in by a machine shop as i snapped the old one off in the t-stat, so it has been re-tapped. Basically not sure if i can remove the nipple from the stat housing anymore. Any insight would be great thanks! I had a video of it and the dripping, but the file somehow became corrupt.
 
i removed the coupler, replaced with a pipe nipple the same size as the aluminum piece and put in a rubber hose with clamps. easier to remove and no leaks. mine was corroded beyond repair.
 
Lots of info on this if you do a search. I used an AN fitting, but a nipple and hose clamp work well. The trick is getting the old fitting out of the crossover without breaking the crossover. Some come right out, others are not so easy.

EngineMay4-1.jpg


Here is my heater hose with brass AN fitting
 
I'm doing mine now. I'm using a 5/8 nipple x 1/2 pipe thread. Most of your auto parts stores carry them. When I went to take to old one out it snapped off clean with the housing, a chisel and a couple of hours later I got what was left out of the housing but I had figured that would happen.
 
Thanks guys, i tried to search but for some reason my work internet wont let the results come up? I am wondering if the nipple is going to come out without a fight?? Its only been in there for 2 years or so, but im worried about breaking it again because im not 100% sure on what the machinist did to re-thread the pieces back together. I might try to get the nipple off of an old stat cross over i have to take to the store and match up a nipple. Will post some pics in a few days.
 
NAPA 660-1732 and 3 hose clamps with a short piece of heater hose. Never a problem again:thumbsup:
 
Forgot to mention one thing. Some (all?) of the factory snap in outlets have a restriction. You might want to check yours.

waterfitting.jpg


I made up a brass piece and pressed it in my fitting to match the factory fitting.
 
The NAPA nipple is restricted. It is the same heater hose nipple that the 6.2s usedIMG_0282_262.JPGIMG_0267_247.JPG
 
Michael, -I thought I remembered sending you a brass swiveling NPT x hose barb? Do you still have it? If you lost it I can probably send you another, -it was made by Parker, -and the swivel is sealed with an o-ring, -good stuff.

As far as removing stuff like that, -particularly in aluminum, heat on the aluminum is your friend. I used a product called Aerokroil (orange can) in combination with a mapp gas torch and a big honkin' easy-out, -screwed right out.

Let me know on the fitting, if you need another one, I will look tomorrow to see if I have an extra. If I do, I can get it headin' your way.
 
deejaaa said:
i removed the coupler, replaced with a pipe nipple the same size as the aluminum piece and put in a rubber hose with clamps. easier to remove and no leaks. mine was corroded beyond repair.
Click to expand...

When I had to do head gaskets on my jimmy that thing wasnt going to come apart, I destroyed it and replaced it like you did.
 
Ratman said:
Michael, -I thought I remembered sending you a brass swiveling NPT x hose barb? Do you still have it? If you lost it I can probably send you another, -it was made by Parker, -and the swivel is sealed with an o-ring, -good stuff.

As far as removing stuff like that, -particularly in aluminum, heat on the aluminum is your friend. I used a product called Aerokroil (orange can) in combination with a mapp gas torch and a big honkin' easy-out, -screwed right out.

Let me know on the fitting, if you need another one, I will look tomorrow to see if I have an extra. If I do, I can get it headin' your way.
Click to expand...

Hey Rich!
Drawing a complete blank about getting the fitting from yah. I think you only sent me pistons to replace the burnt one? Maybe not? Old age setting in. LOL. Any who that would be awesome if you could send one! If not i can just go get the NAPA one that BK suggested.
 
The key when you try to take it out is to remove that small tubing out from the quick connect first.
Then you can use a socket and move it slowly without sudden movement.

NEVER USE A BOX WRENCH WHILE BOTH ENDS ARE CONNECTED!!!

Here is a thread at DP that cover the replacement of the coolant quick connect for your reference:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=138989

By the way, mine did the same thing: leaks after 2 years on the plastic clip quick connect.
It was the NAPA, better steel quality but the plastic part is the problem.

In the thread above, there are GM part no for the part with the correct restrictor size.
 
Last edited:
JMJNet said:
The key when you try to take it out is to remove that small tubing out from the quick connect first.
Then you can use a socket and move it slowly without sudden movement.

NEVER USE A BOX WRENCH WHILE BOTH ENDS ARE CONNECTED!!!

Here is a thread at DP that cover the replacement of the coolant quick connect for your reference:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=138989

By the way, mine did the same thing: leaks after 2 years on the plastic clip quick connect.
Click to expand...


Good suggestion on the socket! Hopefully i have one the correct size that big.
 
Using the Barbed fittings with clamps is certainly a good fix, however I have used the Steel quick couplers from NAPA (730-4943) and have had great service from them.

The factory 'pot metal" parts are a disaster waiting to happen.

Just be sure that the aluminum line that plugs into the coupler is clean and the seal area that plugs into the coupler is clean and free of any corrosion.

If you decide to use a barbed fitting, the restrictor size is a 5/16 diameter hole.

Somewhere I wrote a post on the secrets of removing a broken fitting from the water crossover.



Good luck

Missy
 
DieselSlug said:
Hey Rich!
Drawing a complete blank about getting the fitting from yah. I think you only sent me pistons to replace the burnt one? Maybe not? Old age setting in. LOL. Any who that would be awesome if you could send one! If not i can just go get the NAPA one that BK suggested.
Click to expand...

Ok, I will take a look and see if I have one. Let me know if you go the NAPA route.

Old age?? Nice try!!!
 
Missy Good Wench said:
Using the Barbed fittings with clamps is certainly a good fix, however I have used the Steel quick couplers from NAPA (730-4943) and have had great service from them.

The factory 'pot metal" parts are a disaster waiting to happen.

Just be sure that the aluminum line that plugs into the coupler is clean and the seal area that plugs into the coupler is clean and free of any corrosion.

If you decide to use a barbed fitting, the restrictor size is a 5/16 diameter hole.

Somewhere I wrote a post on the secrets of removing a broken fitting from the water crossover.



Good luck

Missy
Click to expand...

Missy, i believe i have the steel quick coupler, but i got it from the dealer. I had to take the line apart when i rebuilt the engine so its been clipped in and out a few times. However when i grab the line and push it into the coupler it goes in another 1/6-1/8 of an inch. Then when i let go it slides back out. But i know when you buy the part it comes with the nipple too, not just the plastic clip.
 
Ratman said:
Ok, I will take a look and see if I have one. Let me know if you go the NAPA route.

Old age?? Nice try!!!
Click to expand...


Ok thanks! Im going to look into the NAPA unit to see if its availible locally. Will let you know what i find! Plan on fixing it this weekendish..
 
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