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Heater hose question.

Nosferatu49534

Nosferatu49534

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After stopping for lunch on our way home from vacation today got back to the truck and noticed a puddle right behind the passenger tire. Figured out coolant is coming from the green hose in the picture. I can't seem to find a replacement like the hose that's in the truck with the metal lines. After some reading on here I'm assuming I need to replace the metal prefab lines with just regular old heater hose, or I saw someone say something about silicone hose as a replacement? And I'm assuming there are some fittings to replace as well? Is there anything else I should do while I'm replacing these hoses?




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Have had a leak in this same spot for over a year on my wife's '94 Suburban. I was planning on putting a section of copper, possibly. Will know more in a few weeks when I get to look at it better for a repair - tired of seeing it on the floor. Just seeps, but it's irritating.
 
If mine was just seeping I probably would ignore it for now but it's a pretty steady stream on my down pipe. I'm just glad it didn't blow on the highway.
 
Hose looks wet but can't see color on my phone. just thought I'd say mine drips AC condensate there lots when it's humid. If you are not adding coolant by the quart then it might be mostly condensate. I had to replace the quick connect at the cross over but that area is still OE on my truck. I'd say use common sense with any hose might shield it some from turbo etc.
 
Due to the heat the hose is special and pre-bent in the downpipe area. Dealer item. Make sure it isn't a blown heater core.

We eliminate the unreliable trick coolant fitting in crossover with a 5/8 nipple.
 
Injector heat shield probably rubbed a hole in the hose. Make sure new one is angled away or protected with some wrap or ??
 
It it is a chafed hole from heat shield, use a piece id old radiator hose as chafing gear. I do this on all my vehicles, my jeep in particular. Wire ties work well to hold it in place.
 
I checked with my local dealership and the can get me the part next day ish, for about $70. I don't think that's terrible. I would however like to try and design my own hose/ fitting just for the experimental aspect and to learn things. What would be the best material to use, copper, brass so on. I have access to brazzing materials if that would be a good idea. Also is this the fitting that gets replaced with a 5/8 nipple? If so what thread is used?


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Those quick connectors always leak as they corrode like that. It WILL BREAK when you remove it. After removing the broken parts of it (there are thread here walking you through it) just thread in a barbed hose fitting with some Teflon tape or dope on it and a 4" piece of hose and 2 regular hose clamps.

I have one of those fittings still left from 10 yrs ago when I was rescuing those trucks all the time. If you or anyone else wants it, pay shipping and it's yours. But I have to stress my opinion on this. When you buy a truck with those fittings in it that is one of the first things to do before you even change the engine oil, is to take the fitting out and throw it as far as you can and install a barbed fitting and a 4 inch piece of hose.
 
Point taken. :) I'm assuming it's a push together type fitting which I haven't had much experience with but seems like a pretty dumb design for anything. Do you know if it NPT thread or something else?
 
You best shot of getting the old one out without breaking is to gently use heat on the housing. Around 230 will soften the red thread sealant if I recall and if its gonna come loose it will. The corrosion is another issue.
 
Most auto parts have a better metal replacement for them. Not so much a bad design as it was the metal choice by GM. I still like an old fashioned barbed fitting myself too.
 
That part is powdered metal and you may have to take it out in chunks. There is a heater flow restrictor in it and frankly it isn't missed.
 
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