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Heater hose question.

SnowDrift said:
Have had a leak in this same spot for over a year on my wife's '94 Suburban. I was planning on putting a section of copper, possibly. Will know more in a few weeks when I get to look at it better for a repair - tired of seeing it on the floor. Just seeps, but it's irritating.
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I'd advise against adding any copper to the system. Too much of a chance of creating a galvanic reaction that then tries to use the copper as a sacrificial anode to copper plate the inside of the system.
 
Bernie said:
I'd advise against adding any copper to the system. Too much of a chance of creating a galvanic reaction that then tries to use the copper as a sacrificial anode to copper plate the inside of the system.
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Hadn't thought of that. Plastic fitting?
 
Can always go brass. Sure it is a little more, but no opportunity for stray current.

Second choice is stainless.

Personally, I'd use plastic / nylon only for a temporary fix.
 
Got everything fixed last weekend. Went well, didn't brake the fitting which was nice. I ended up getting 4 ft of heater hose and rerouting everything under the air box. The part that was by the heat shield is facing the other direction now plus I ziptied everything nice and sturdy with some extra hose in rub spots as well.


I'm also wondering what optimal operating temp should be as well? The temperature seems to fluctuate a lot.
 
Optimal ECT depends on how you are going to use the truck. For towing, 180's is the norm. For highway / grocery-getter, 190's is common. In general, running the GM block over 210*F is not ideal unless highly confident that it and the cooling stack are healthy. Even with a healthy system, folks running a GM block try to keep ECT's under 210.


Suspect that the temp swing might come from not burping all the air out of the system. If that is not it, the next likely candidates are the thermostat and fan-clutch.
 
Ok. Thank you. I guess I'm doing ok then. It usually sits about 175 around town and 185 highway. I think I'll still change the thermostat though. I have no idea when any of that has been touched.
 
Those temperature patterns are a bit on the cold side for empty (not towing) and might tie to a partially locked / failing fan clutch.

Consider getting a fan clutch and set of thermostats that compliment each other's temperature range. If you are not going to tow, getting 195*F T-stats will help with fuel mileage.
 
I tow a pop up most of the time maby a car trailer a couple times a year. I will get the clutch too. You said "set of thermostats" I'm assuming that means there's 2?
 
There is some good info on his site, however not all is accurate. His site was set up for hummers. Being as I own one and have worked on a bunch, and my years with 6.5's and 5.7's in fleets in trucks, I sent him a ton of info to help out. Turned out he was (is?) selling stuff that when given correct info on conflicted with the bottom line. So he keeps the incorrect info up, including gadgets that do harm instead of help. Just be aware of that.

And yes the laid back angle of the stack in hummers/Hmmwvs gets it way worse than pickups.

The fleet a wrenched for was the company that started the dexcool lawsuit he is referring to. Hundreds of destroyed pieces of equipment that never had anything but dexcool in them until the suit settled.

On the coolant testing: Baldwin part # CTK5029image.jpg

Easy peazy lemon squeezey- save lots of money and time.

Finally and most importantly: spend all your free time reading the older threads here. The reason I spend time here is because these folks have it figured out. Far more and far better info than on that other site, or any other site I've found.
 
The rest strips look cool. I didn't think that was something I could do my self. Good to know it's not all correct info. I definitely read way more here than any where else. I've gotten lots of help already. :) If it's bad info I definitely wouldn't feel bad if my post was removed. I'm not trying to pass bad info on.
 
Nosferatu49534 said:
If it's bad info I definitely wouldn't feel bad if my post was removed. I'm not trying to pass bad info on.
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Identification of non-optimal information is a good thing; keeping it for others to learn-from is even better. Like in science and engineering, there is value in knowing what does *not* work even if somebody else wants to say that it does :)
 
When you start by saying I believe he is doing more help than harm and I harbor no ill feelings against him for his efforts. It has been years since I went through his site, so I glanced at only ONE thing from reading you post till now responding incase he eliminated some of his errors. I found a couple that have been there for about a decade.

His rear head cooling kit. This design has long since been proven to cause issues and does not solve the problem. That is why Bill Heath (iirc inventor of the original kit) quit selling it and speaks out against it every since he learned of the draw backs. I gave Chuck Kelson (owner of flashoffroad) all the info including test documents of GM from their testing this process and looking at in multiple locations including a complete secondary radiator. I also gave them the documentation showing where the US DOD got the original engineering Study showing that GM knew of the unbalanced waterflow problem. That is when the DOD forced GM to manufacture the 2000 model water pump retrofittable to all Humvees, and pickups. Flash off road makes a profit from selling multiples of the kits, and that I believe is why he will not acknowledge the balanced waterflow repair and quit selling the problem causing rearhead flow modification.

Carefully re read the pages about anti freeze.
"This doesn't mean that your engine is not affected by cavitation only that it hasn't been a problem in this particular engine." I sent him GM findings, as well as USFLEET findings showing the opposite and all the Dexcool info, since we had just won the lawsuit only a year prior. Read through his material on cylinder liner cavitation, then learn about things like regular cavitation from excessive heat, (search TTS waterless coolant less for the quick version), then you can look at Detroit's research on the effects of electrolysis in cooling systems. While his information in that part will not cause you to destroy your engine, it is misleading that only wet sleeved diesel engines suffer from this.


There was a lot of info I sent him he chose not to mention on his site, which is fine. But it upsets me on someone making money on items that is well proven to do damage to the most expensive part of a rig, the block and heads of the engine.

I know some of the people here get tired of me banging the drum on the GM coolant issue, and say it has been fixed now, after the third version. The fleet I used to run with over 100 pick up trucks alone sued and one on the first version, second version, and settled out of court on the third and current version of their coolant. That company, Which I no longer work for, now gets complete new engine and radiator replacement for all their GM fleets vehicles free of charge from any GM dealer at 75,000 mile intervals. They are still running over 30 pick ups two above the 300,000 Mark, and sell them with the FIFTH engine & radiator combo having been installed all for free, at corporate's expense. But yeah, I'm sure they fixed it THIS time.
 
Very interesting to know. I'm not saying he's right, just that I thought the article was interesting. I'm not trying to step on toes at all I'll try to be more careful if I post a link. I have heard of the lawsuit about dexcool, just didn't realise there was so much involved. So I guess in the end is dexcool bad for our/ any engine or is it more of mixing it with non dexcool?
 
Imo, the link is helpful to people over all.

Also in my VERY bias opinion, give me free Dexcool, of any type and I will throw it away. It screws things up, even if it is not mixed with "improper coolants".

I don't think you've stepped on any toes,mane if I came across like a sledgehammer, not my intent.:smuggrin:
 
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