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Heart Surgery

93detroit

93detroit

Well-Known Member
Messages
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776
Location
central PA
Say a prayer for her fellas. Everything looks great so far. Need to get the crank out to really look at the webbing. Hopefully cleaning up the decks and a light hone in the cylinders. If the block is good, HV oil pump, studs, heads and 18:1 pistons (ceramic coated).
 

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Lookin good. Yeah the site has been doing this lately. when you get that "oops" message, just reload the page and your post will be there. you will have to delete your message that will still show in the reply box too.
 
Hope not. I hope to unbolt the mains and pull the crank Saturday. So far, everything looks real good. Pulled motor due to cracks in the heads between the valves. Then I found that the pistons all had spider web cracks as well, no doubt due to lots of fuel and lots of w/m injection.
 
Hey Will! How ya been?
Looking back, there always seemed to be debate over whether or not the pistons in the n/a Optimers were heat treated. I can say for certain now that in 2006, they were not!
 
I keep breathing so guessing I got work to do for God, no other reason I should still be alive. Btw, I was glad to see the title was referring to your engine.

Things I would suggest while open:
Gapless rings
Balance the lower rotating assembly.
Those two are really low cost and bring big benefits.

I have reused main cap bolts but they are tty and best replaced. When I reused them it was a no money situation, and one was an experiment that convinced me to always replace them. Getting the halo girdle from Chris is a good idea and comes with half the studs you would need tk replace the bolts. Then just order the other studs from arp and go all studs. If not then buy the bolt kit and use them.

Free is spending a bit of time with a dremel and just clean up the flashings and oil return flow channels. Worth it in any engine imo.

What is your plan for the heads? I’m hoping for gold bars from the sky so I can get some p400 heads. Btw, please post pics of your heads and pistons if ya get a chance and How hot did you get it or extreme timing or anything else you figured contributed.
 
IF the block is good (looks to be, so far), plan is to balance the crank and stud the motor. Crank mics at 2.399" on the rods, so plan is to polish only. Promaxx heads (at least port matched and tidied up). If block cleans up ok, std. pistons and heads will head to Chris to drop compression and ceramic coat.

I could run my truck flat out in 2nd gear towing 15k up a mountain and not go past 1100-1150egt and 190 water temp- with the water/meth on (14gph nozzle with pressure significantly up over stock setting, 15% methanol.

My guess is that I just pushed the stock envelope too far, too often. Also thinking that the modified 14cm hx35 was too tight for sustained 3000rpm pulls
 
How about the lock and stitch kits to repair the cracked heads ?
Is it good to polish these cranking shafts ?
All the reading I done says to not mess with the journal surfaces.
 
Not lock and stitch but doing the brass insert into the steam pocket to keep from boiling the coolant or hydro locking the cylinder. Then you resurface the head. However the crack can continue into the valve seat and create its own problems. For that the fix is adding in stainless steel valve seats. But doing a whole head with all this makes you compare prices with head replacement.
 
I read that the Promaxx heads have replaceable valve seats, which puts them ahead of Optimizer heads that cost almost twice as much. I will verify before I buy.
 
do any crank counterbalance edge clean up before sending it.
The few hundred dollars spent for balancing the rotating assembly is well worth it imo. Remember it needs a factory balancer to do that with, and you send your flywheel as well as the rods, pistons, wrist pin & retainers, one set of rings.
Be 100% clear- they are to NOT MODIFY balancer or flywheel (flexplate).
That way if you have to replace them in the future it doesn’t affect balance.
 
Forgot to mention that the block has the oil squirters, but main bearings with only one hole and (I assume) a standard volume oil pump.
 
A lot of people see the oil squirters as a negative- but I saw many non squirters crack out.
Once people learn the engine balance is a huge part of it, it can be addressed.
Internal balance, girdles, fluid dampr, etc all help alot.
 
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