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HE351VE with functional VGT on 1997 6.5L

I believe some people prefer Victor Reinz over Fel Pro. I don't have experience with them personally, but I wouldn't be afraid to use them.

I'm seeing info that Victor Reinz and Mahle are the same gaskets. I know Quadstar was selling Mahle gaskets, but are having order fulfillment issues so he dropped them as a supplier.
 
Ordered gaskets. The sale for my other project truck fell through so trying to figure out budget for heads. What is the part number of the Flowkooler pump for the bolt-on fan clutch?

 
New heads, head gaskets, and studs all installed, runs great again. I have a GM aluminum radiator ready to go in to replace the used Cummins cooler. The decision now is to either modify the Cummins CAC to clear the radiator outlet, or switch to an air to water CAC.

I have other parts in the pile ready to go in as well, including a Quadstar "Beast" injection pump, 63 mm compressor wheel and cover for the HE351VE, and billet triple disc torque converter. The pump upgrade and accompanying tune should put me in the 400 HP range. Just need time to do some wrenching...
 
Air to water will be alot more maintenance. So I guess the GM radiator has plastic tanks?
 
Air to water will be alot more maintenance. So I guess the GM radiator has plastic tanks?

Yes, I would have to run coolant in it because of the climate here in UT. I like the simplicity of the A2A, and it works very well. The new radiator is a Champion aluminum one, similar to the stock GM radiator. The problem is that the intercooler inlet interferes with the radiator outlet, which is why I chose to use the Cummins radiator. I will have to cut and angle the intercooler inlet up to clear it.
 
What was wrong with the Cummins radiator?

It was used when I got it, so I'm thinking it was removed because it was gummed up. It doesn't cool as well as I think it should. I don't want to buy a new Cummins radiator just void the warranty by drilling and tapping holes in the end tank for steam and heater core ports. So I'm going back to the GM style radiator and modifying the used CAC. I think that will be better for cooling.
 
If the tanks on the new radiator are metal just move the outlet on it.
 
If the tanks on the new radiator are metal just move the outlet on it.

They are, but there is the internal transmission cooler right where the outlet would need to be moved to. I plan on utilizing that because of other low speed transmission temperature issues I am having as well. Also, I would rather hack up the used and un-warrantied CAC than a brand new radiator.
 
All aluminum Cummins radiator while costing more $$$ will be easy to weld bungs etc. for the extra lines.
Low speed trans fluid heat is generally because of high stall converter and or other issues.
 
All aluminum Cummins radiator while costing more $$$ will be easy to weld bungs etc. for the extra lines.
Low speed trans fluid heat is generally because of high stall converter and or other issues.

So the Cummins radiator does not have an internal trans cooler, so I am running a larger than stock external only cooler. It is the same size as the stock oil cooler for reference. The situations where temps were uncontrollable were while towing either a loaded hay trailer or camp trailer, 10 mph or less, 1st or 2nd gear so converter unlocked. There isn't enough airflow through the external cooler alone to remove enough heat to keep the fluid temperature under control. There isn't room between the cooler and grill for an e-fan, so I am going to put the internal radiator cooler back in to the circuit to provide cooling at low vehicle speeds. The external cooler works very well as long as I am moving at a higher speed, but not in those situations.
 
Makes sense. Could you just cut the tall oval shape flip it over and weld it back?
 
So the Cummins radiator does not have an internal trans cooler, so I am running a larger than stock external only cooler. It is the same size as the stock oil cooler for reference. The situations where temps were uncontrollable were while towing either a loaded hay trailer or camp trailer, 10 mph or less, 1st or 2nd gear so converter unlocked. There isn't enough airflow through the external cooler alone to remove enough heat to keep the fluid temperature under control. There isn't room between the cooler and grill for an e-fan, so I am going to put the internal radiator cooler back in to the circuit to provide cooling at low vehicle speeds. The external cooler works very well as long as I am moving at a higher speed, but not in those situations.
I fit a Ram Cummins rad, CAC a GM AC condenser and a medium truck trans cooler behind the dual headlight header panel/grille.
Your cooling fan and clutch are tasked with providing airflow through the cooling stack however, if the perimeter of the rad shroud is not sealed and there are air-gaps around everything else in front of the rad then air is drawn around instead of through cooling stack at speeds you mention.
 
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