Going mechanical with a Moose Omega Marine IP

[n8in8or]

26 psi. At about 19:1 compression that's safe. Sounds like you've got a good breathing monster on your hands, Nate. I echo the call for a drive vs. boost pressure comparison. I think you're on to something with that passenger side header design.

Thanks! I'm hoping my combo works the way I've envisioned.

 

[n8in8or]

Ok, cool. If you see the trail of bubbles look for air intrusion. If you can not find it, use a clear piece going into the ip. No bubbles in ip but bubbles out means ip problem.

The only reason to not use clear line everywhere is it will start to go bad within 7-8 years. The little return line is easy to see leak and replace- the other one not so much an easy job to swap or notice seeping.

Hmmmm, maybe I'll keep a piece of clear line on the return just to ease future troubleshooting. It wasn't fun swapping that on with a hot coolant crossover right there.

 

[Will L.]

Mine has been there for about 3 1/2 years. I swapped out the last clear one that was there for since putting in my optimizer.
I would be SO HAPPY if I could get clear sae30r9. That's all I would use anywhere.

 

[FellowTraveler]

Oh and....just goofing around I saw 26psi of boost. That was at about half throttle. The highest I saw before was 24 and that was getting on the highway full throttle around 80mph.

That's 2.8 pressure ratio @ 40.1 psi actual @ sea level "lots of air for sure with that turbo", compare this to the map for the HX Super 40 w & that's serious air.

Again AWESOME!

 

[n8in8or]

That's 2.8 pressure ratio @ 40.1 psi actual @ sea level "lots of air for sure with that turbo", compare this to the map for the HX Super 40 w & that's serious air.

Again AWESOME!

Thanks!

 

[schiker]

Will beat me to it but you post a video of an air bubble in return line and you question it doesn't move then seems to rise a little when you shut off the lift pump.

That is typical from what I have seen. An air bubble won't flow downhill. At least not in laminar flow. Its the buoyancy of the air that counteracts the flow. Air will try and find a high spot fluid being heavier will find low spots. Kind of how P trap works.

Then you said it flushed when running so I guess it was a shallow enough hose peak, enough friction in the rest of the hose with a bit more flow it pressurized a little, maybe a little turbulence, and probably mainly the diameter of the hose combined with some wall friction and it sheared the bubble way and was enough to push it over the short peak to flow out.

I have seen larger hose diameters and taller loop peak catch a decent size bubble and they would not flow. That was my concern that your water to air intercooler maybe had some trapped air at a high point and the neat vacuum fill tool others posted about.

 

[n8in8or]

Will beat me to it but you post a video of an air bubble in return line and you question it doesn't move then seems to rise a little when you shut off the lift pump.

That is typical from what I have seen. An air bubble won't flow downhill. At least not in laminar flow. Its the buoyancy of the air that counteracts the flow. Air will try and find a high spot fluid being heavier will find low spots. Kind of how P trap works.

Then you said it flushed when running so I guess it was a shallow enough hose peak, enough friction in the rest of the hose with a bit more flow it pressurized a little, maybe a little turbulence, and probably mainly the diameter of the hose combined with some wall friction and it sheared the bubble way and was enough to push it over the short peak to flow out.

I have seen larger hose diameters and taller loop peak catch a decent size bubble and they would not flow. That was my concern that your water to air intercooler maybe had some trapped air at a high point and the neat vacuum fill tool others posted about.

I actually lied: when I looked at the hose this morning, the bubble was in fact still there. Good to know it's normal though...I was just grasping at straws at the time since I had no idea what was going on and I had never done the clear hose thing before.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Oh and....just goofing around I saw 26psi of boost. That was at about half throttle. The highest I saw before was 24 and that was getting on the highway full throttle around 80mph.

Any particuliar reason you're running so much boost? My DURAMAX is 18:1 CR, and I set mine to peak out at 28 psi, and I'm pushing somewhere around 160mm3 of fuel through mine(should be around 400 to the wheels, but somebody else dynod his with a very similiar tune, and put down over 490, so who knows), and it cleans up nicely. I know the IDI takes a bit more air to clean up, but that sounds like alot of boost for one to me.

 

[n8in8or]

Any particuliar reason you're running so much boost? My DURAMAX is 18:1 CR, and I set mine to peak out at 28 psi, and I'm pushing somewhere around 160mm3 of fuel through mine(should be around 400 to the wheels, but somebody else dynod his with a very similiar tune, and put down over 490, so who knows), and it cleans up nicely. I know the IDI takes a bit more air to clean up, but that sounds like alot of boost for one to me.

No real reason in particular only that I'm feeling out what does what. Once I get things sorted I will set the boost so it's just enough to clean the exhaust up. I only drove it about 5 miles last night, so not enough to really say anything definitive, but I was definitely making some gray exhaust even at the 26 psi level. Again though, nothing definitive at the moment.

 

[n8in8or]

Ok I found the pink wire for the solenoid so now I'm wired correctly. I just drove it down the street a half mile or so and back to make sure everything was in order. It all seems good. The trans module program definitely needs some tweeking but that will come with time. Right now I'm having trouble getting the program to work properly on my laptop so I'm going to try doing it on the desktop instead. I got on it just a little during that short drive and the speeds I got up to surprised me. It's deceptive because it isn't screaming to move you, it just pulls slow and steady if that makes sense. I think it's going to be pretty fun to get this thing sorted out.

After the smoke I experienced last night on some of the hills on the back roads I decided it was smart to look into the Hypermax Puff Limiter more. I emailed Joel about it and read other peoples' experiences with it and other aneroid solenoids and it sounds really good. It even improves mileage when set up properly which makes sense since black smoke is just wasted fuel. So I went ahead and got that on order today. I don't want to be "that guy" that's rolling coal all over. I also don't want to get pulled over for being a nuisance. I didn't smoke as bad as I thought I would tonight so hopefully with proper pedal application I'll be ok in the meantime. Some trans tuning could also help.

More to come.

 

[n8in8or]

So today was finally the big day...driving the hoe to work for the first time since the Moose swap. But....I get to the first intersection and I notice my turn signals aren't working! And I look down at my brake controller and I notice no brake lights either!! So I turn around disapponted. I do a quick scan of the fuses and I don't see anything blown so I grab the Ford and head to work. A new multi-function switch locally is $160!!! A used one at the junkyard is $25 so that's tempting, but then I find I can get one overnight from Amazon for $50. Ordered. Even if that isn't the problem it's cheap enough that I can pay for that and return it.

I get home and take the bottom of the dash and steering column apart. I check for power at the plug and no power at the always hot terminal. Check the fuse and yup it's blown. Did I miss that this morning? Hmm. So I replace that and now I have constant voltage. I put the plug back together and now the turn signals work???? Uh ok. Oh and further the sestbelt/light buzzer that quit a couple weeks ago starts working again! So did I have a bad connection that taking apart and reassembly fixed? Or a loose connection that got jiggled while probing the guts of the dash? Either way it's not super reassuring. I think I'll keep the MFS as a just in case spare.

So now I should FINALLY be able to drive to work and start to put some miles behind the wheel of this thing!! Too bad work is only 5 miles away.

BUT the best thing I did tonight??? I took the spare PMD out of the glove box. Boy did that feel good!!!



Just because a post without a pic or video is a sad post.

 

[Husker6.5]

And you're going to do what with the no longer needed spare PMD?

 

[n8in8or]

And you're going to do what with the no longer needed spare PMD?

Not sure yet. I kind of like the idea of having known good IPs and PMDs on the shelf if the right project/opportunity came along, but I haven't 100% decided.

 

[Burning oil]

Better leave it in the glove box. the truck has grown used to it, it might get mad.

 

[n8in8or]

Better leave it in the glove box. the truck has grown used to it, it might get mad.

With the tantrums it's had the last couple days I think it's already mad. It will soon grow to love its new heart though.

 

[Husker6.5]

Yeah, it might make a good $150 paperweight for your registration and insurance paperwork in your glovebox!

 

[n8in8or]

THE MOOSE IS LOOSE!!

Alright, I finally got a chance to make a couple videos. You will see that I still have some tweaking to do to the transmission program as right now it's shifting at just 3000 rpm at full throttle. But I really wanted to get some documentation in ASAP because I get the Puff Limiter tomorrow and hope to install it Monday night. Overall I'm pretty dang pleased! I think once I get the trans dialed in it should be a nice beast. It has good manners around town though I'm having trouble getting the idle down lower than 750. I might try playing with the fuel pressure at idle a little to see if that changes it. Perhaps my gauge isn't quite accurate so the pressure is too high and affecting the advance curve? I'm going to email Joel and get his thoughts on that too. One thing that kind of surprises me is the part-throttle response - it's very responsive at tip-in. I expected that it might not be as responsive at low throttle input as the DS4, but it's every bit as responsive and in fact maybe even more so!! It rocks! I wish I had done this from the start. My combo is almost where I want it, just need to get the trans dialed in. Enjoy!

0-80 Speedometer

0-80 EGT & Boost

Take off in the rear view mirror (you can see why I need to get the Puff Limiter installed ASAP)

 

[Husker6.5]

Damn good 0-80 time! Looking at your tach needle, it looks like it never upshifted as your RPM held at 3,000 the whole time! Excuse the ignorance, but what is a Puff Limiter, something Bill Clinton used in college?

 

[3500_6.5]

That is one thing I have always loved about even a stock db2 over any stock or programmed ds4. Throttle response is way better. I've always been a fan of how a db2 response to partial throttle vs the ds4. Glad you're up and running and enjoying it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[n8in8or]

Damn good 0-80 time! Looking at your tach needle, it looks like it never upshifted as your RPM held at 3,000 the whole time! Excuse the ignorance, but what is a Puff Limiter, something Bill Clinton used in college?

Thanks! ...well my 6.5 DOES inhale

The Hypermax Puff Limiter is a piece that replaces the factory top on the DB2 pump and it has a diaphragm on it. The diaphragm is hooked to manifold pressure in order to sense how much boost you are making. You preset the diaphragm to only respond above a certain boost level - so BELOW that boost level it limits the amount of fuel the pump puts out and ABOVE that level it gives you full fuel output. This helps to make sure you're only putting out as much fuel as the engine can use and not before it can use it. Does that make sense? I'm not sure I'm explaining it well. Here's a link to Hypertech's site.

https://www.gohypermax.com/ProductDisplay.aspx?ID=d9ee0536-6204-46a6-8455-a3a12867ecce