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Going mechanical with a Moose Omega Marine IP

n8in8or said:
I really want to put a larger turbine housing on this because my suspicion (without any proof yet) is that it is becoming a restriction. So I would like to have more air with less pressure. To make that work realistically though I would want to run a QSV or something else so it wouldn't be a laggy, smoky pig around town. So I know I'd have to change a few things to make 1 thing work....which is fine, I'm just not ready for that at this moment. Sounds like future dyno trips though! Hopefully soon I can put some additional pressure gauges in the system (in the manifold pre-turbine, beginning of the downpipe, end of the downpipe) so I can start finding my restrictions and address them systematically. I just need more time and money, no big deal. :hungover:
Click to expand...

Go anyway you feel is better for you, but a QSV doesn't make much sense in my countryfied head.....

VGT turbo and Steed's controller stuff would be the path to investigate, both cost wise & performance wise.

My thinking is that vgt's can be programed a million ways to suit driving needs... with only a little time on the pc to change things...

Purchase a qsv, redo things to make it fit, and STILL have a non adjustable turbine that will be pushing boost psi when cruising the highway just sounds backwards to me... but that's me...
 
sctrailrider said:
Go anyway you feel is better for you, but a QSV doesn't make much sense in my countryfied head.....

VGT turbo and Steed's controller stuff would be the path to investigate, both cost wise & performance wise.

My thinking is that vgt's can be programed a million ways to suit driving needs... with only a little time on the pc to change things...

Purchase a qsv, redo things to make it fit, and STILL have a non adjustable turbine that will be pushing boost psi when cruising the highway just sounds backwards to me... but that's me...
Click to expand...
I'm with you on the VGT and Steed thing. I really like the idea of that and may end up going that route, but I also have some alternate QSV control ideas kicking around with another guy that may be competitive price-wise and performance-wise. Just for something different, you know? :D
 
The problem most are running into with vgt's is excessive ebp all the time. You can tune the boost, but unlike a wastegate, opening the vanes doesn't vent ebp like a wastegate does. I know they're getting them down into the 1.2-1.6:1 range, but non wastegated turbos are still king for all out power.
 
Could be ferm, but I also know lots of progress has & is being made in vgt controlling, and what will work on a cummins won't necessarily work with ours. With that said I'm not going to be on a track and most won't have things set on kill full time.

lets use my build for example, a part time tow rig & a driver, stick shift.. when towing I need a quick spool until I get into direct, a tight turbine will give me that, but once up to speed the turbine will be too tight.. the vgt will afford me to change how the turbo acts once momentum & road speed is up as if the turbine was larger...

That's how I understand it anyway, I will have all the sensors the vgt uses and the more Steed works with his stuff the more it can do, I know he mostly has cummins/ford folks using his stuff but there are many others with different setups.

Is a vgt the best thing for ours, who the hell knows, it's just the path I'm going down, I'm not tring to be the biggest HP 6.5 or the fastest, I am attempting something most never will because I can and maybe find something hidden while doing it is all...

It's all good ferm :wacky:
 
n8in8or said:
I really want to put a larger turbine housing on this because my suspicion (without any proof yet) is that it is becoming a restriction. So I would like to have more air with less pressure. To make that work realistically though I would want to run a QSV or something else so it wouldn't be a laggy, smoky pig around town. So I know I'd have to change a few things to make 1 thing work....which is fine, I'm just not ready for that at this moment. Sounds like future dyno trips though! Hopefully soon I can put some additional pressure gauges in the system (in the manifold pre-turbine, beginning of the downpipe, end of the downpipe) so I can start finding my restrictions and address them systematically. I just need more time and money, no big deal. :hungover:
Click to expand...

On the different pressure readings, i have put together plumbing systems before on equipment where a weld in threadolet puts a npt plug flush to the inside wall of the product pipe. Just install the plug, cut threadolet flush to end of plug and drill hole to match. Weld it in to match and good to go.

So you can build it and install- then move the plugs and sensors around as needed and it wont affect flow.
Determine locations with exhaust inplace, mark it, remove system and weld it up one time. Then reinstall with plugs.

As for the sensors- if you need it to record with engine specs tie it in as a map/ maf or boost sensor and it will come in on your obd2. Then whatever scanner you have or get a c-reader that auto records everything on a 24 hour loop. You can go back and read it as if it is live data.
 
Will L. said:
On the different pressure readings, i have put together plumbing systems before on equipment where a weld in threadolet puts a npt plug flush to the inside wall of the product pipe. Just install the plug, cut threadolet flush to end of plug and drill hole to match. Weld it in to match and good to go.

So you can build it and install- then move the plugs and sensors around as needed and it wont affect flow.
Determine locations with exhaust inplace, mark it, remove system and weld it up one time. Then reinstall with plugs.

As for the sensors- if you need it to record with engine specs tie it in as a map/ maf or boost sensor and it will come in on your obd2. Then whatever scanner you have or get a c-reader that auto records everything on a 24 hour loop. You can go back and read it as if it is live data.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip!
 
Ok, I got the Hallman boost controller installed tonight so I can control my maximum boost. I did quite a few pulls and finally got it set at a maximum of 28psi. I could have played some more and dialed it down to 27psi, but it was dark and they weren't exactly deserted roads I was using for testing so I called that good enough. I wanted to set it at the boost level I hit during my 1/4 mile run in the fall to keep things fairly apples-to-apples. I don't know if that necessarily means that I'll be flowing the same amount of air as I was in the fall, but it's the best I can do. So now that is done. At this point I'm pretty much ready to hit the dyno this Friday!!IMG_7462.JPGIMG_7463.JPGIMG_7464.JPG
 
Don't assume it will only hit 28 on the dyno. Since doing bigger injectors, I peak out at 24-25 on flat ground, same exact setup with stock 8njectors made 28-29, but today I got on it going up a slight hill and it hit 29, back to flat ground and 25 was tops. So a SMALL change in load can change peak boost quite a bit.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Don't assume it will only hit 28 on the dyno. Since doing bigger injectors, I peak out at 24-25 on flat ground, same exact setup with stock 8njectors made 28-29, but today I got on it going up a slight hill and it hit 29, back to flat ground and 25 was tops. So a SMALL change in load can change peak boost quite a bit.
Click to expand...
Yeah I anticipated that, but since I have the boost controller in place shouldn't that still limit my boost? I guess that would depend on how well the wastegate can blow off exhaust pressure?
 
n8in8or said:
Yeah I anticipated that, but since I have the boost controller in place shouldn't that still limit my boost? I guess that would depend on how well the wastegate can blow off exhaust pressure?
Click to expand...
A blow off valve would do it 'set it at the desired psi and your done' then your looking for a non-gated exhaust housing too.....
 
I forgot there was one last detail I needed to take care of before tomorrow: ventilation. Since they aren't equipped with an exhaust ventilation system to accommodate diesels I had to make my own to get the exhaust out the door. So I got 3 sections of 6" diameter x 8' long flexible aluminum duct and a 4"-6" duct reducer. I screwed and taped it all together so I now have a 24' length of hose that can be firmly attached to my tailpipe. Now I'm all set!! Note: in the pic below the ductwork is still in the collapsed state so it's easier to transport.
IMG_7469.JPG
 
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