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GMT 800 Brake Conversion > Silverado HD 2500

I also pressed in the ball joints. I have an OTC ball joint press but it's so much easier in the big press with the arms removed. 20211204_094451.jpg
 
Grisley1958 said:
1994 and earlier only had rear wheel abs so those should work. I think 95 and up did have sensors in the front.
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Grisley1958 said:
I wish I'd known that when I ordered parts! I'm sure a front bearing without a abs sensor is a lot cheaper. Couldn't find one without for the 2500HD.
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Colby’s ‘94 Suburban has abs. Difference was an external reluctor wheel that went internal on subsequent models, but it will accept the subsequent models.
 
I took my 95 K2500 abs unit (inop) off yesterday and tossed it. In process of making up brake lines and adj prop valve installation.
Since we cant buy a new or rebuilt one anyway. It was causing my front brakes to drag, must have some kind of restriction.
 
Big T said:
RockAuto should not be your reference source. Colby’s ‘94 Suburban had abs on it. The wheel the sensor reads was external.
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Rockauto is not my reference source, but I wasn't in the shop to confirm for certain that there is no abs on the front of my 1994 K2500
 
Got some pics showing what not to do on the tie rod portion of this conversion. Your options have been to create an adapter that threads into the GMT 800 tie rod and the GMT 400 tie rod adjuster. Other option is to ream the knuckles for the 7 degree taper on the ES 409 tie rod ends.

These pics show why I would advise against the adapters. I bought these adapters which were machines from an old tie rod. One never really locked in the threads of the GMT 800 tie rod. It bent and wore the the threads on outside of the bend. I also believe that this play in the threads played havoc with the suspension and destroyed the upper control arm bushings.

C6C10DFF-5A1F-4B29-AD90-E3835DC9246A.jpeg
5530C054-422F-4076-90F2-10EFAE277F20.jpeg
38F6AAAF-7822-460C-B96C-14AA68D793A0.jpeg

While the reams will cost you around $100, it only takes about 20 minutes to do and you get a far better result with the ES 409 tie rods.
 
Have yet to do the conversion, but agree that reaming for the ES409 is the better route to go

With regards to the reamers, I like the idea Will mentioned in another thread of basically renting/ selling specialty parts like the reamers to other folks needing them for one time use, then passing along to the next fellow who may need them.

I know it would be just more to manage, but it would be cool to have a "rental" kind of section where folks could share/ swap these specific tools. For example I have the set of IP wrenches sitting here collecting dust until my future DB2 conversion. If someone was willing to pay shipping both ways I'd be happy to send out the wrenches to someone wanting the proper tools for loosening and tightening the pump. So long as I get my tools back in a timely fashion and in good condition, I'm happy to share and help out. Just my .02
 
DieselAmateur said:
Have yet to do the conversion, but agree that reaming for the ES409 is the better route to go

With regards to the reamers, I like the idea Will mentioned in another thread of basically renting/ selling specialty parts like the reamers to other folks needing them for one time use, then passing along to the next fellow who may need them.

I know it would be just more to manage, but it would be cool to have a "rental" kind of section where folks could share/ swap these specific tools. For example I have the set of IP wrenches sitting here collecting dust until my future DB2 conversion. If someone was willing to pay shipping both ways I'd be happy to send out the wrenches to someone wanting the proper tools for loosening and tightening the pump. So long as I get my tools back in a timely fashion and in good condition, I'm happy to share and help out. Just my .02
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It's a nice idea, but. While performing the reaming work the first time around, I had a ream bind and break.

As for IP wrenches, I simply cut the box end of a 19mm wrench from Harbor Freight for the injector lines and had my welder friend bend another box wrench for the IP nuts. Both pretty cheap and simple and unfortunately I've got a lot of use out of them lately.
 
dbrannon79 said:
might try the reamer on a cordless drill where you can set the break-over resistance. when it binds the drill just starts clicking. but go slow speed on it I would think.
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Exactly what I did this last time, but that was just the tie rod connection on the knuckle. First time I was using a corded 90 degree angle drill on the ball joints of the knuckles.
 
Big T said:
Exactly what I did this last time, but that was just the tie rod connection on the knuckle. First time I was using a corded 90 degree angle drill on the ball joints of the knuckles.
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Yeah I was thinking the tight clearances might no allow a full size drill in the knuckle. I think I have seen 90 degree drill adapters at harbor freight.

EDIT: be nice it they made reemers with a shaft on both ends where you can catch the drill on the outside of the knuckle.
 
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