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Getting ready to start my project !!!

Well, I made it back from Phoenix last night.. Whew, long weekend, but was AWESOME !!!

Anyhow, I fiddled with it today for just a short bit, hooked some jumper wires directly to the lift pump again and it fired right up and ran good.. NOW for the crappy news. The damn valve cover on the passenger side is leaking oil.. I'm kinda pissed about that because I have to tear a lot of shit back apart to fix it.. Plus I have to fix the fuel filter drain valve, it leaks as well.

I think I'm gonna try and concentrate on getting the lift installed before fixing the leaks though.

Mike
 
Well.. I haven't wired the lift pump "key hot" yet, but I will get to it this weekend, It's gonna start getting the lift in this weekend as well..... Woo Hoo..:D
 
I wired a switch with a bright blue LED that is Hot In Run to the lift pump. That way I can prime the fuel system without crqnking the engine, turn off the switch when the truck is running and when the key is off, the lift pump is for sure off. This way it retains the factory OPS safety.

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
 
The problem I'm having, is no signal to the lift pump at all.. during GP's, cranking, or running. The oil pressure switch is new "AC Delco" if I recollect, the GP relay is new also, the fuse is good too. The only thing I can think of next (haven't tested yet though) is the relay. I think I'm gonna eventually just run it key hot through it's own relay and get it away from the OP sender switch and GP relay.

Mike
 
Mike K3500 said:
The problem I'm having, is no signal to the lift pump at all.. during GP's, cranking, or running. The oil pressure switch is new "AC Delco" if I recollect, the GP relay is new also, the fuse is good too. The only thing I can think of next (haven't tested yet though) is the relay. I think I'm gonna eventually just run it key hot through it's own relay and get it away from the OP sender switch and GP relay.

Mike
Click to expand...

Oh, that's my bad. I didn't see that part.

Even still, wiring it to Hot in Run will still allow you to manually run the lift pump. In other words, I wouldn't just wire it run all the time without having a switch on it. It wasn't difficult to wire it that way.
 
Yep my thoughts as well, will wire it with a switch too... Have to get that done this weekend, because the lift kit project starts this next week. :cornut:
 
Well.. I "Hee Haw'ed" a hot wire to the lift pump through a switch inside the cab, fired the truck up and let it run for a while, while I ate din din. I then took it for a cruise down to the near gas station and dumped a 20.00 in it, after that I decided to take it for a couple mile cruise and then back to the house.. (no plates or insurance yet).

So when I left the driveway, I gradually got on it and the Turbo whistles like crazy, got on it after I was rolling at 50 mph and blam turbo whistles like crazy again. When the tranny kicks down, it feels a lil slushy, but maybe it's just me and not liking stock shifting auto's. I don't have any boost or pyro gauges yet, so I cannot say exactly when the boost comes on, but it feels like it comes on fairly quick and hard. Just by watching the tach, it seems maybe starts at 1,500 and is is whistling like crazy by 2,000. I tried watching the passenger side mirror and didn't notice any gnarly smoke clouds, but maybe just a very light haze..

I'm pretty happy with the way it runs so far, just have some bugs to work out of it..

Mike
 
Yes..!! ... I've been very busy with "life", BUT, I have a bunch of new pics and updates. I just have to get my ducks in a row and post them here soon.
 

Well ... Here is the beginning of the lift kit install (quite a pain in the ace) .. I bought some forged lower arms, I thought they looked better then the stamped ones, not to mention the stamped ones were precision surgically removed from the torsion bars. I also bought all new ball joints, inner / outer tie rod ends, brake pads.











I had one gnarly CV shaft, that was replaced... I had to "surgically" remove the old cross member, it was worn through from the key anyways.



The cross member and all the factory brackets that were torched off



Front diff was serviced and new front seals installed before installation.



Can see my "redneck" brake holding tools.. LOL





Tagged my T bars and then gently polished the hex ends with a "dull" 80 grit pad to knock all the old rust crap off.









Can see my redneck jack stands under my truck.. (my truck was sitting on them all winter).. they are solid oak..



Had to install all new wheel studs / lug nuts.. previous dumb ass owners had wheels loosen and egg shape the bolt holes and wear the studs down, so they just rattled them on super tight and stretched a bunch of studs...



Last time they attempted their own rear brake job, they failed to install passenger side wheel seal correctly, ultimately leaving this mess.



All new rear brakes, seals, wheel cylinders, hardware.





The bearings on the left have the seal in backwards... All fixed now.





My truck is in the garage right now with the back end still torn apart... Still have to finish rear brake assembly, replace rear brake lines, replace rear diff cover... I took this crappy pic with Cell phone when I pushed it out side to turn it around.



I will be having some more updates coming.
 
Man you're really digging into this and I feel for you on that suspension work. Stuff is like permanently mated together and will not give it up.
 
I ran all new steel brake lines on the front and once I get all the brakes on the rear, I will be running all new steels to the back and to each wheel as well...
I have plans on running 285's under this thing with some of those Fred's spacers in the back, but I am going to do some rim customizing...;)
 
Engine ran OK... right now I have the batts out on battery tenders.. (have been for a while now, due to there being some kind of draw on them). Anyhow, the IP pulls harder then the stock OE lift pump can supply, which is not good.. AND I screwed up when I put it all together and used Tygon between the FFM and IP. Ultimately the IP will collapse the Tygon (it gets reaaly soft when it gets warm, and it's a soft fuel tubing anyways), so when it collapses it, it gets air in the system.

Once the rear brakes / drums / lines are done, I will be moving on to the fuel system. Probably start at / with lift pump, all new push-lock supply and return line and then on up to the IP. I am planning on swapping my DB4 back out for my DB2 4911 (I had sent that out over the winter and had it tweaked quite a bit) The DB4 is going to be sent out and checked out and have some customizing done..;)

While the IP's are gonna be swapped out, I need to pull the passenger side valve cover and re-seal it, so I figured while it's off, I'll pull the drivers side and install some Harland Sharp 1.6 rockers

Man, this truck is a money pit.. LOL
 
I bought a Walbro from Leroy a while back, but I may have gotten the wrong one.. not sure. I bought the FRC-10 and it seems as if the 5's are what's recommended for the mechanical pumps.
 
Mike K3500 said:
I bought a Walbro from Leroy a while back, but I may have gotten the wrong one.. not sure. I bought the FRC-10 and it seems as if the 5's are what's recommended for the mechanical pumps.
Click to expand...
Hmm, wasn't aware that there was a DB 2/4 preference WRT Walbro applications. Or, is ECM / OPS / ODB differences. Might be a good question for Leroy as I'm no expert.
From experience though, I ran the '5' (with WIX pre filter) thout a hickup for a couple of years and I'm electonic. I'd still be running it had the AirDog not landed in my lap. 635 has it now and we'll install it on his 98 dually later this summer.
 
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