Will L.
Well-Known Member
Frc10 is the better answer IMO. If you end up building the rest of the truck beyond the capabilities of that pump, then you won't mind the extra cash at that time because it will be a $7,000 truck.
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
Getting old burb back on the road. Looking for advise
- Thread starter Appaloosa
- Start date
Never do this. Lets be clear from the beginning: You will be spending several hundred times what the damn thing is worth. On the flipside new diesel pickups cost $50,000 and Diesel SUV's, if they are even still made, Start at $30K new. So you can buy a POS for $700 that needs several thousand in repairs or you can buy a "restored" classic that is "off the books" high price or you can choke up $30,000 for a new vehicle. I make my payment to the parts store and hold the title so I can skip a month or two of payments without issues. This is the only you can sanely justify restoring a old vehicle to roadworthy. Along these lines Google Farmtruck. Yes, there are levels in the rabbit hole you have gone down, but, still cheaper than new. Unless you pay to play.
As far as fuel: fuel absorbs water. One way to get it out is a good water separator filter. CAT makes good filters and saved a 6.5 injection system when the same fuel trashed another system: injectors, IP, Injectors, fuel tank, lift pump... Yes Pumps like to push, but, water separators have a preference to be sucked through. Interesting how hot fuel has different water suspension properties. I may add a heater just for that reason...
Will L.
Well-Known Member
The reason you and others see the difference in the water being sucked through the water separator is there is a pressure differential that occurs going into the separator chamber the causes an expansion in the fuel at a slight level, which causes a cooling of the fuel there (think a/c expansion valve). When it gets pushed through there is only the cooling effect. When it get sucked through it is experiencing a slight vacuum in the chamber it is expanding into and will negate the cooling effect of the expansion. The vacuum is ever so slightly causing the water in the fuel to heat quicker than the fuel (think vacuum into a a/c system before charging to boil off moisture).
A huge difference? No, but a noticeable one none the less. If you have a system with no fuel heater, the best order would be :tank; water separator; fuel lift pump; primary filter; secondary filter; (all as close to the tank as possible); then at the other end of the truck polish filter; and Injector pump. If using one, get the heater in there before the separator. That is all in magical fuel engineer dreamland. Real world is where ever you stuff it to save .03 per unit...
A huge difference? No, but a noticeable one none the less. If you have a system with no fuel heater, the best order would be :tank; water separator; fuel lift pump; primary filter; secondary filter; (all as close to the tank as possible); then at the other end of the truck polish filter; and Injector pump. If using one, get the heater in there before the separator. That is all in magical fuel engineer dreamland. Real world is where ever you stuff it to save .03 per unit...
Looks good. BTW that hose is not intended for bio.
Can't tell the brand, but its the rating were after.
According to
http://www.veyance.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=6082
Application: Specially designed low-pressure hose for gas and gas/ethanol blends in carbureted vehicle applications. Resists gas, oil and diesel fuel. (Not recommended for use with biodiesel – see 30R9.)
According to
http://www.veyance.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=6082
Application: Specially designed low-pressure hose for gas and gas/ethanol blends in carbureted vehicle applications. Resists gas, oil and diesel fuel. (Not recommended for use with biodiesel – see 30R9.)
I have begun to work on my old burb again after many other more important projects have come and gone.
I'm about to replace the rear brakes. I think the front pads/rotors have been replaced at least 4 times and to my knowledge the rear shoes are original. 200K plus on truck. I have read some old threads on here that the suburbans may have a TSB for replacing the proportioning valve. Is their an easy way to tell if I need to change this? I'm assuming I do, as I seem to be under utilizing the rear brakes.
Also, To my knowledge I have the JD7 brake code. which should call for 13" drums with 3.5" shoes. On inspection on my rear brakes I only have 2.5" shoes, but it seems 3.5" would fit in the drum. Can I just get 3.5" shoes? or is the backing plate/mounting different, or will I change the braking ratio? Should I just test the rear brake pressure first? I do not have a gauge for this that I know of. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I would also like to replace all the brake parts but save the drums. what wheel cylinders are the best?
I'm about to replace the rear brakes. I think the front pads/rotors have been replaced at least 4 times and to my knowledge the rear shoes are original. 200K plus on truck. I have read some old threads on here that the suburbans may have a TSB for replacing the proportioning valve. Is their an easy way to tell if I need to change this? I'm assuming I do, as I seem to be under utilizing the rear brakes.
Also, To my knowledge I have the JD7 brake code. which should call for 13" drums with 3.5" shoes. On inspection on my rear brakes I only have 2.5" shoes, but it seems 3.5" would fit in the drum. Can I just get 3.5" shoes? or is the backing plate/mounting different, or will I change the braking ratio? Should I just test the rear brake pressure first? I do not have a gauge for this that I know of. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I would also like to replace all the brake parts but save the drums. what wheel cylinders are the best?
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Regarding stepping-up to 3-1/2" wide shoes, have read where others did this and it worked fine. So search a bit just to verify.
Here are a couple threads to review:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...00-88-00-obs-and-94-99-dodge-2500-3500.44950/
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/project-rear-disc-brakes.45238/
I did all of the changes for the front disc / rear drum setup (1 ton (dually) in the front, proportioning valve (per TSB), and the dually wheel cylinders in the rear). After a good bleed, the Burb stops nice
Pedal feel is also nice
While working on the rear, consider a set of 2" spacers as they will help minimize the 'squirm' from ruts. Check with Leroy to see if he is still working on a group buy for the spacers.
Once you get the rear brakes back together, for future adjustments they are (semi) automatically self-adjusting by braking in reverse. *BUT* I have learned one trick (IIRC it was from either the fullsizechevy or GMT400 site) to make this actually work. Simply backing into / out of a parking space is not going to do it. The important thing is to get the truck up to at *least* 15 mph in reverse and then get on the brakes hard (to the point of lock / ABS trigger) and repeating 3 times. Do this every 3K - 5K miles and the Burb will continue to stop nicely
Here are a couple threads to review:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...00-88-00-obs-and-94-99-dodge-2500-3500.44950/
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/project-rear-disc-brakes.45238/
I did all of the changes for the front disc / rear drum setup (1 ton (dually) in the front, proportioning valve (per TSB), and the dually wheel cylinders in the rear). After a good bleed, the Burb stops nice
Pedal feel is also nice While working on the rear, consider a set of 2" spacers as they will help minimize the 'squirm' from ruts. Check with Leroy to see if he is still working on a group buy for the spacers.
Once you get the rear brakes back together, for future adjustments they are (semi) automatically self-adjusting by braking in reverse. *BUT* I have learned one trick (IIRC it was from either the fullsizechevy or GMT400 site) to make this actually work. Simply backing into / out of a parking space is not going to do it. The important thing is to get the truck up to at *least* 15 mph in reverse and then get on the brakes hard (to the point of lock / ABS trigger) and repeating 3 times. Do this every 3K - 5K miles and the Burb will continue to stop nicely
I get back next Monday and will be ordering a few sets of wheel spacers. Let me know if you want in.
I'm currently installing my upgraded rear brakes. I may have come across and issue. I had 13x3.5 drums and 13x2.5 shoes originally. I ordered new 3.5" shoes, prop. valve, and rear wheel cylinders for 3500 DRW.
My problem is I think I would also need different backing plates to run the 3.5" shoes. Is it worth taking apart the rear axle and spending $100 a piece for new backing plates? I think I may just order new 13x2.5" shoes to keep costs down. unless someone thinks its worth the hassle to get the 3.5" shoes on?
My problem is I think I would also need different backing plates to run the 3.5" shoes. Is it worth taking apart the rear axle and spending $100 a piece for new backing plates? I think I may just order new 13x2.5" shoes to keep costs down. unless someone thinks its worth the hassle to get the 3.5" shoes on?
3500GMC
What T F, over
Might be worth it if your original backing plates have grooves worn into them where the shoes sit. I've been know to weld those in and buff em back to shape.
My backing plates seem to be in good shape. Just wondering if brake performance would be increased much by going to 3.5" or if just adding longevity. seems the surface area increase would definitely help. just don't know if its worth the expense, if i go that route I should rebuild the rear end too once its apart.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Nice Project. I miss my old 6.5L truck, and your project is familiar to stuff I regularly did with mine.
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
I did the 1 ton mods (proportioning valve and dually cylinders (already had the 3-1/2 inch shoes)) and the difference was noticeable. The game-changer is the proportioning valve along with the cylinders as this makes the rear brakes actually take a fair share of the load.
Burb now stops level (does not porpoise), brake pedal feels much more firm, and I can actually get the drums to self adjust.
Not sure whether these changes have a benefit to the pickup.
Only 'trick' to automatically adjusting the rear drums is to get the truck rolling (~15 mph or so) and hit the brakes hard (to the point of lock). Do this 3 times. Expecting the shoes to self-adjust from normal backing out of parking spaces is not enough load on them.
Burb now stops level (does not porpoise), brake pedal feels much more firm, and I can actually get the drums to self adjust.
Not sure whether these changes have a benefit to the pickup.
Only 'trick' to automatically adjusting the rear drums is to get the truck rolling (~15 mph or so) and hit the brakes hard (to the point of lock). Do this 3 times. Expecting the shoes to self-adjust from normal backing out of parking spaces is not enough load on them.