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Fuel system by pass filtering?

sctrailrider said:
I'll jump in here with my worthless info pertaining to this as my setup is just like what some say won't work...

My FRC-10 puts out 15psi, I use a cheap 70$ regulator and tee'd into the return line on the frame, it's been like this close to 1 1/2 years now, I haven't blown any lines, haven't had not a single problem as of yet..

I did pull the return line off afterwords to see how much flow or psi there is in the return system and there isn't as much as you would think... I'm no expert here but mine works like I wanted it to....
Click to expand...

So your running 15 psi into the pump? We are constantly told that's a good idea, the turbonator guys are against running that much into a DB2. Some forums seem to be hit or miss on good or bad. Have you noticed any change in driving when you did that?

Yachtcare said:
Thanks SC.......Will see if I can find one local, then head to the bay.
Click to expand...

Check CL, I was looking to buy one locally as I thought I needed a reg, found an Aeromotive unit for $100, great deal but then I found my issue and didn't need it,
 
No, I'm at 7 to the IP, but for about 2 mos it was at 15psi, hense the reg was needed.... and I wasn't very clear in that statement was I, but the FRC-10 does have 15-17psi...

EDIT-- the pump didn't work right at all, through the internal timing off.. runs much better with 7psi now..
 
We were typing at the same time, the pump didn't like that much psi, and with what I have in the pump I didn't want to snap a shaft...
 
So here's my latest revision to the plan.
Since I still have the FASS regulator on the shelf, and it IS rated for diesel use, I will install it behind the Cummins lift, and set it up at 7-8 psi.
I have ordered an airtex CV8000 inline check valve (hopefully their check valve is better than their lift pump) that I will install a few inches past the regulator bypass dump figuring that has the best ability to maintain fuel system pressure. Ill dump the return fuel from the regulator into an existing tee I have in the vent line at the tank that I use for transferring fuel from the slip tank to the main tank. I routinely transfer 20+ gallons of fuel from the slip to the main tank via electric pump while underway, if this method aerates fuel, it has never had any detrimental effect I'm aware of. So I think the return from the regulator shouldn't create any issue.
 
Update.......

Got everything installed. Truck starts and runs fine. But the Jake's manual controller doesn't seem to be doing it's job. Transmission is stuck in limp mode. 2nd and reverse only.

I haven't fiddled with the timing as of yet, and the pump is still advanced far toward the driver side. Still smokes white and runs rough for a few seconds on cold start up, but clears up quickly.

Oddly enough, the speedo and odometer still works. I thought I would lose functionality there when I eliminated the DS4.
 
any updates on the timing, Yachtcare? I am in the same boat (get it? :) ) db-2 conversion. but i have a manual. My pump is maxed to the driver's side. runs like poo otherwise.
 
pronghorntractorworks said:
any updates on the timing, Yachtcare? I am in the same boat (get it? :) ) db-2 conversion. but i have a manual. My pump is maxed to the driver's side. runs like poo otherwise.
Click to expand...

I ended up swapping out the IP for a "rebuilt" 4911 from Pensacola. Getting rid of the cummins lift and installing an FRB 5 from Leroy in parallel with a stock lift, that allowed me to get rid of the FASS pressure regulator as well. The truck ran great, no timing problems, but had hot start issues. Pensacola sent another pump, that one has the truck barely idling, and rough as a cob. A sharp blip of the throttle, and it will stall. That pretty much updates us to today.

Synopsis.......the issue lies within the IP. I haven't got a good one yet.
 
hmm. i have heard some people having problems with pensacola rebuilt pumps. that is disappointing. mine is a used pump from a 6.2 i got. I tested it running before i put it on my frankenstein truck.... not sure what the the problem is. Did your engine rattle like a powerstroke when the old pump was at max advance?
 
pronghorntractorworks said:
. mine is a used pump from a 6.2 i got. I tested it running before i put it on my frankenstein truck.... not sure what the the problem is. Did your engine rattle like a powerstroke when the old pump was at max advance?
Click to expand...

The first pump I had was from a good running J code 6.2. It did sit for about four years , and I went into it(from the side) and turned up the fuel screw about 1/3 turn. At static timing it smoked white and bucked. Advanced all the way it smoothed out and smoked at startup, but cleared up fast. Would run below 1000 rpm, but ran out of fuel pressure above that. Yeah, it rattled like a big dog.

First pump I had from Pensacola, the truck ran great.......until I tried to start it hot. But I was quite happy with out any timing or stumbling issues while it was going down the road. I had reversed the fuel system mods I made, and installed a new timing set when I installed this pump.

Second pump they sent was worse than the 6.2 pump I had. Couldn't even think of taking it out on the road. Didn't change anything from the way it was configured with the first "rebuild".

So all things considered, I'd still have to say the issue lies strictly within the IP itself.

Have you made any headway with your timing issue?
 
well, it is still advanced pretty much all the way. I have fuel return lines leaking right now. working on those still. I drove it some today. It is pretty loud at startup, and in the lower rpm range, but once i get going it is pretty livable. I might try to bump it back a bit tomorrow. looks like i have some air in the fuel from somewhere too. I see bubbles in the return on occasion. more so when it is cold... want to get those issues fixed before I go back to monkeying with the timing. I am sure the pump is not very healthy. I have a 4911 pump to rebuild or exchange sometime when i have the money. Right now I am just going to keep the one in it. once i get the fuel issues sorted i will turn up the pump and mess with the timing some more. so did you center up the timing on the pump with hot start issues?
 
pronghorntractorworks said:
well, it is still advanced pretty much all the way. I have fuel return lines leaking right now. working on those still. I drove it some today. It is pretty loud at startup, and in the lower rpm range, but once i get going it is pretty livable. I might try to bump it back a bit tomorrow. looks like i have some air in the fuel from somewhere too. I see bubbles in the return on occasion. so did you center up the timing on the pump with hot start issues?
Click to expand...

The pump with hot start issues ran beautiful. Timing was on the mark to begin with, and I advanced a few degrees. Plenty of power, and smooth running. Cold start with just a few spins of the starter. But I didn't pay that much to still have driveability issues. Having to make certain I carry around a gallon jug of water to dump on the IP a few times a day is a big issue (especially to my bride, that has been after me to get rid of the truck for some time. Trying to get her and the truck to live happily together has been extremely challenging as of late :) )

The leaking return lines, I'm sure is a big source of your air in the lines. Another source that is overlooked sometimes is the heater on the bottom of the FFM. Mine gave me problems a couple years ago. Caused some problems with the DS 4. IIRC a new one is around $70.00. I have a part number at the shop, I'll post it up later.
 
FFM fuel heater kit............Stanadyne # 31341 12 vdc 100 watt or #32364 12vdc 150 watt. WIX (NAPA) # 24922 ( I believe is the 150 watt Stan part) is $68 and change at Rock Auto.
 
I actually have the filter from a 6.2 on it right now. i know the ffm is leaky,thats why i changed it. x2 on the wife wanting to throw in the towel. I like the truck too much and i am too cheap to make payments :)
 
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