steelydan
New Member
I was running "questionable fuel" and still had the factory filter. It would allow to me switch over when it clogged and change the element when I pulled off the highway.
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Fuel Gauge detailed results, pump or clog?
- Thread starter Matt Bachand
- Start date
I was running "questionable fuel" and still had the factory filter. It would allow to me switch over when it clogged and change the element when I pulled off the highway.
- Staff
- #42
You guys are 'way too serious... either that or I'm not serious enough.
I completely agree with using double-flare fittings on anything approaching hydraulic pressures, like brakes, but for plumbing in a no-pressure fuel filter? (remember this aux filter is going before the LP, so there really is zero pressure on it. All we're worried about here is keeping air out)
I'd just cut the lines and use Swagelock compression fittings.
Lots faster, cheaper, and easier. I've used Swagelock fittings on hydraulic-level pressures before, too, in various oilfield applications... if you put them together properly, I've never had one fail.
Here's a better look (animation) re: how they work.
A decent double-flare tool (if you don't have one) is about $60-70, and unless you have lots of uses for it, it is just extra toolbox weight.
Just my opinion.
Jim
I completely agree with using double-flare fittings on anything approaching hydraulic pressures, like brakes, but for plumbing in a no-pressure fuel filter? (remember this aux filter is going before the LP, so there really is zero pressure on it. All we're worried about here is keeping air out)
I'd just cut the lines and use Swagelock compression fittings.
Lots faster, cheaper, and easier. I've used Swagelock fittings on hydraulic-level pressures before, too, in various oilfield applications... if you put them together properly, I've never had one fail.
Here's a better look (animation) re: how they work.
A decent double-flare tool (if you don't have one) is about $60-70, and unless you have lots of uses for it, it is just extra toolbox weight.
Just my opinion.
Jim
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Them are nice jifaire, just what the dr ordered. Wher can I get them? What sizes are the fuel lines do you know off hand?
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Great to know! Any idea what size the fuel lines are factory? must be a common size, I just avoided brake/fuel lines in the past. Not anymore
Turbine Doc
Just Another Diesel Guy
You guys do realize this is the vacuum side of things so no psi to blow it off, and double flares, compression fitting while purty are overkill, I cut the tube, filed/sanded burs off cut tube, then slid hose over the tube, and 2 hose clamps each end of the hose/tube that didn't have barbs on it, and single clamp on barbed fitting
Attachments
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Thanks TD. Nope didn't know i could do it with diesel rated rubber line. That makes it that much easier for me. Although I looked forward to using what Jifaire recommended. I have to go with the rubber hose and hose clamps. Thats familiare territory!
RadioMan
Recruit
Hi Matt,
Take an inch or so of your hose and put it in a jar with some Diesel in it. If it's kinda gummy after sitting overnight........
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Diesel rated rubber hose of course, as stated above.
I used a length of hose i could buy fast for testing my fuel pressure with. after a few days the dirty end is all rubbbery like latex or a ballon, very wierd feeling. I know for sure that is not rated. Just as sure I know I would never plumb anything permanately that is not rated for diesel.
Great point however, as most mechanics I know don't know that you need diesel rated rubber hose for diesel. They seem to think any hose that fits is ok!
Turbine Doc
Just Another Diesel Guy
Got mine from a boat store on Ms Coast, they deal in many of Diesel fuel boats, plus most coast hardware stores on coast carry it as many fishing/shrimp boats are Diesel powered around these parts.
packratt
Active Member
Got mine at Napa. Made them look it up in the book and verify it was rated for diesel.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Update....
Mid-way through plowing a 12 hour storm, I had stumbling and SES light come on.
Cracked bleeder with truck running and no pressure coming out.
Killed truck, cracked bleeder, jumped lift pump, some fuel, however small came out.
Problem repeated 20 minutes later.
I hooked up my fuel pressure guage (that I leave in the truck until I can permanately plumb one in), and I was only at 1psi.
Needless to say something clogging my tank again.
Drove home, blew air into tank, and back to 8psi idle w/instant recovery while driving.
Just goes to show that even though I thought my truck was running great, I was starving the IP for fuel for sometime before I even knew it.
Shows how importnant a perm. Fuel pressure gauge, or dummy light it.
This is a MUST DO item in my opinion for all 6.5 users. Summer time for sure.
Mid-way through plowing a 12 hour storm, I had stumbling and SES light come on.
Cracked bleeder with truck running and no pressure coming out.
Killed truck, cracked bleeder, jumped lift pump, some fuel, however small came out.
Problem repeated 20 minutes later.
I hooked up my fuel pressure guage (that I leave in the truck until I can permanately plumb one in), and I was only at 1psi.
Needless to say something clogging my tank again.
Drove home, blew air into tank, and back to 8psi idle w/instant recovery while driving.
Just goes to show that even though I thought my truck was running great, I was starving the IP for fuel for sometime before I even knew it.
Shows how importnant a perm. Fuel pressure gauge, or dummy light it.
This is a MUST DO item in my opinion for all 6.5 users. Summer time for sure.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Also goes to show that 120psi of air as violently as possible did NOT remove my tank sock.
I went through 4 fuel filters in the last month, assuming i'm sucking in the dead algaee or whatever is in there, and they were all clean when I cut them apart...
Waste of 60 bux. ..
I went through 4 fuel filters in the last month, assuming i'm sucking in the dead algaee or whatever is in there, and they were all clean when I cut them apart...
Waste of 60 bux. ..
Turbine Doc
Just Another Diesel Guy
Sock is clogging not making it to the filter
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Absolutely TD.... Have to drop the tank come warm weather....
Probably for the best.... I will drop both tanks and thoroughy clean them....
I'm so excited i can barely wait....
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Update:
After popping the FSU out this morning, The sock was still in place. I blew 120lbs at it numerous, numerous occasions, Pulsating the air blow for maximum impact.
Sock was still on.
After looking at the sock. I don't think its a diesel sock. I remember seeing other pictures from GMCTD/TD describing the diesel sock which has a wider screen patch on the end. Mine had no such thing.
In fact, there is a triple rolled screen mesh inside the sock. I can see why I had a problem in the winter time, the thick cold diesel couldn't make it through the sock. Perhaps had a tad of moisture that was frozen and stuck to the sock, which is why I had to blow it off every few weeks or so.
The aftermarket NAPA FSU's probably come with a standard sock. Which is probably way too fine for cold diesel IMO.
At least now I can use my entire tank up (even though fuel gauge's still don't work) HOpefully new rear FSU will solve that. I'll tackle that once I get my walbro/racor and move old LP to rear with new FSU install.
Be nice not filling up every 100-120 miles. Inside of Brand new tank looked spotless as it should be.
My 6month old FSU looked like crap already from one winters worth.
I think before next winter I'll get up under there and soak it with WD-40. In fact. I think I'll use a pesticide sprayer and spray the entire underneath with WD-40 for a little more salt/rust protection.
Anyone else that ever does a FSU R&R compare socks, and make sure yours is a diesel one, with a larger screen patch for cold weather / thick diesel.
I'll eliminate my sock altogether and put the walbro / Racor prefilter 30 or 20 there instead. This way with the clear bottom racor I can visually see the liquid fuel, drain water there, and never worry about whats inside my tank again.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Mod correct spelling in this title please, and delete this message. It screws myself up searching for the mispelled word. I do know how to spell, perhaps I'm getting lazy with my old age.
- Staff
- #59
Firefox!
The #1 reason I use Firefox is because it spell checks just like Microsoft Word. It will underline in red when you misspell a word.
It is free to download, just do a Google search to find it.
If it was not from Firefox I would look like a retard when it came to spelling.
Hope this helps!
Thanks,
SmithvilleD
Active Member
My original fuel strainer sock had a little flapper valve opening on the end that struck me as being there to pop open if cold slightly gelled fuel couldn't get thru the sock & there was enough suction to pull the flapper open.
The sock that came with a replacement fuel level sending unit didn't have that feature. As I'd read some of the early posts in this thread, I cleaned the original sock as well as possible & put it on the new sending unit.
The pre-lift pump Racor should catch anything that could get by the sock in conditions that caused fuel to be pulled thru the flapper valve/hole in the OEM sock.
The sock that came with a replacement fuel level sending unit didn't have that feature. As I'd read some of the early posts in this thread, I cleaned the original sock as well as possible & put it on the new sending unit.
The pre-lift pump Racor should catch anything that could get by the sock in conditions that caused fuel to be pulled thru the flapper valve/hole in the OEM sock.