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Fuel Gauge detailed results, pump or clog?

I had a fuel pressure problem a while ago: the fuel pressure was just about 1~2 PSI at iddle and almost 0 at WOT.
I was lucky having the truck still running and expriencing no stall.
The pump was a HO 1993 ACDelco. I swap to a 1993 HO Airtex (E3158) and I get now :
  • 12~14 PSI during Wait to start cycle
  • 7~8 PSI at iddle
  • ~5 PSI at WOT

That being said, TD will chime here ;) , it seems that it is better to think fuel flow instead of PSI.
The Airtex is rated at 35 GPH, a Walbro FRB-5 at 45 GPH, though you get about same pressures---
 
Matt, now that you have have good flow to your IP....maybe you should consider doing Feed The Beast...
 
Matt, now that you have have good flow to your IP....maybe you should consider doing Feed The Beast...

I don't push my truck hard at all, i've never wished i had more power. I have more than enough already. Just happy she's up and running again :)
 
Now next time you drop the tank, let me know if the sock is blown off....

I don't think it is. Its still there. Pressure on way home started dropping to 5 at idle and instantly down to 2 on throttle. Turning truck off and on instantly got me back up to 6.

Looks like i'll be dropping the tank asap. My blowgun doesn't have a rubber tip on it to snug inside the fuel line, so alot of the pressure was sqeezing out and around the line, but I could hear it bubble. The way people were talking I thought it would be gone for sure.

Chris, was yours still on when you dropped ur tank?
 
Haven't dropped the tank to verify - but I blew a whole TON of air in there....I would be surprised if it is still hanging on....
 
Update.

4 Days ago I bought a blowgun with a rubber tip. Blew lines out again. This time tank was full and wasn't so cheap with the air. Gave it to her good, long, and multiple air tank fulls. Let it fill up and did it again about 4 times.

Pressure never even bounced off of 8 idle. Climbing heavy 9psi pressure maintains 5 with instant recovery to 8.

Removed fuel filter today to take pictures. Clean as a whistle. Vac'd the fuel manager out, all clean. Still a little black at the bottom that I couldn't remove 3 years ago, tried again, still couldn't remove it, so its not coming out. Tried to get my 'last ditch screen' off the unit, couldn't with hands, didn't try with tool. Left it alone, looked clean from what i could see of it.

All SES lights went off, and truck is running great for last 4 days.

I put my fuel pressure tester back in its case, (still in the truck of course), and removed my now soft on one end test hose that obvioiusly isn't diesel rated.

Closed the hood and started thinking of exhaust and tune :)
 
Matt, now that you have have good flow to your IP....maybe you should consider doing Feed The Beast...

Spoke to Todd at Heath D. about this after I ventured into this my self he felt it didn't have much value unless you was drag racing.. out of my territory.. its done and there must be reason that so many do it...

I just read between the lines..

The relief, must feel good Matt, well done..
 
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Spoke to Todd at Heath D. about this after I ventured into this my self he felt it didn't have much value unless you was drag racing.. out of my territory.. its done and there must be reason that so many do it...

I just read between the lines..

The relief must feel for you good Matt, well done..

I would think that heavy pulling or plowing would be in the same category as drag racing. Glad it's running good for you Matt. Leo
 
I would think that heavy pulling or plowing would be in the same category as drag racing. Glad it's running good for you Matt. Leo

Plowing uses very little throttle, The weight of the truck does all the work, all I'm basically doing is driving around forward/back around 5mph.. RPM's never cross 1200. If I'm widening the streets at the end of the storm (pushing heavy/thick snowbanks back,) I go into 4-low (tank mode), and barely have to touch the go pedal.

95% of the time the truck isn't getting worked any harder than if I was delivering newpaper with the exception of more forward/reverse switching.

As far as heavy pulling, my truck weighs 10,500 with plow on, my 6.5 notices that last 1000lbs of the plow and I feel it. I have no need to go fast or rush. The snow isn't going anywhere, and besides, my truck gets paid by the hour no matter how fast I'm moving :)

Then there's the old saying, 'don't want to work yourself out of a job, do you?' Nope, i don't! I want to drag the storm out a few more hours!
 
Tubing cutter you can pick up on the plumbing isle at your local hardware store. Double flaring tool from auto parts store. Both are useful for making brake lines as well.

The cheap single flare tools won't work. You won't get a good seal.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPag...SER&PartNumber=41860&Description=Flaring Tool
http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/loan_a_tool/tubing/flaring_tools.htm
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/Pr...de=APO&MfrPartNumber=T73360&CategoryCode=3498
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...se/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=flaring
 
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Tubing cutter you can pick up on the plumbing isle at your local hardware store. Double flaring tool from auto parts store. Both are useful for making brake lines as well.

Yep, I have some tranny cooler lines that have been cut and patched by others so many times therea re fittings every 8 inches, of course a few them drip.

So, tube/pipe cutter, double flare tool, and misc fittings? know the sizes off top of your head? They seem pretty standard?
 
I added some examples of the flaring tool in my previous post.

Fittings are standard and NAPA has a good selection. Don't know sizes off the top of my head but I believe the fuel lines are 3/8 or 5/16. I usually buy a long section of line (60" comes with 2 fittings) then cut and bend to fit save the excess for another project and pick up ends for it.

Also grab a tubing bender, plumbing section at hardware store.
 
thanks alot man, I'll pick one up and some length of pipe and figure it out...

So, you recommend doing the double flare, even though it seems that is for brake lines?

What is the factory flare, single or double?
 
Factory flare should be double. It can be used just about anywhere a 45deg can be used. With the double flare you wind up with a thicker flange and can tighten it more getting a better seal.

You can also make single flares with the double tool. You just skip a step.
 
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