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Fresh engine Crank no start

Another thought: How fast is this engine cranking over? You need 100 RPM min or it will not fire.
 
Well after numerous sessions of cracking injectors loose/pulling glow plugs, it popped off. Sounded like it was hitting on 7 out of 8. Ran for about a minute and a half before suddenly stalling.

Also noticed that I had a leak. Oil leak. Out of the inspection cover. Rear seal popped out. Looking back, I think it was half out when I set the engine in. Pushed it back in with a pair of pry bars. With my luck it will probably pop right back out.

But it wont start back up.:skep:
 
Pull codes on the computer.

How did it sound when it was running? Was it smoking when running? Lift pump pressure?

PMD condition and location?

Injectors new/ rebuilt?
 
After I cranked it again a few times and it didnt fire, I unplugged the CPS. No change. I did not unplug the OS.

With the exception of only hitting on 6 or 7 it sounded great. It was smoking grey/white. Not sure about L/P pressure. PMD is temporarily sitting atop the wiring harness as I pulled the extension harness out to eliminate it as a problem the first time it wouldn't fire.

No idea on the injectors.

I am certain that the reason it wouldn't start the first time around was air in the lines. I ended up cracking 6 accessible injectors and pulling glows out of other 2 and cranked forever until there was fuel EVERYWHERE. I think tomorrow I will crack the injectors again and see if I can borrow my friends scan tool.

MAN was it good to hear that engine fire. . .
 
If the PMD wasn't on a heat sink you maybe got it hot and put it into thermal protection mode or flat killed it.

No need to crack injectors anymore except to verify fuel. You got fuel to them now. Make sure the lift pump is good and the it can take 2 min at 2K RPM or more to get all the air out of the system. 2 of mine have started hard and 1 easy after tearing the pump or injectors out.
 
I think its air now that fooling ye.
Bleed the filter at the top then Pull the hose from the IP inlet,bleed that too.Loosen inj lines again(if it died its back out of fuel there) crank it over till you get fuel back at the inj.run the nuts hand tight,crank it over a bit more to fill the injectors.tighten the line nuts.Glow it,and start.it should run smooth in 10 seconds.
 
When i rebuilt my engine i had all 8 glows removed, did several ntervals with the starter until i saw some smoke coming out the glow holes. Put glows back in and after a few trys it started rough but cleared up. Cranking with little compression while priming helps a lot.
 
It lives! Fresh PMD on the heat sink and in the bumper. Surprisingly not leaking from the rear main either. Took it for a quick spin and it runs great. Should have my confuser back from Heath tomorrow. Thanks to everyone for all of your help. Probably still be pulling my hair out without you guys.
 
Well I got the Computer back and the truck ran great for a few miles. WAY more power than the stock tune. Let me tell you for those who havent dealt with Heath that they are a great company to deal with. Had a check engine light issue that I called them on that turned out to be 100% MY FAULT. Spoke with Todd and Bill a couple times and they were both great to talk to and very helpful.

Anyway Ive got a dead hole and I'm wondering if anyone has any tricks to help narrow it down to which cylinder is dead. Its got some considerable fuel knock so I'm thinking its a stuck injector. I have cracked the 6 injectors I can reach and they all caused the engine to run worse when cracked. So I'm thinking its 1 of the 2 under the turbo heat shield.

I tried the old pry bar stethoscope on the injectors and lines and they all are clicking about the same. Bill told me to chop the throttle a few times to see if that freed up the injector but it hasn't. Any other tips before I start taking this thing back apart? Ive got some time to mess with it today. Also dont have access to a scan tool that can kill individual cylinders

Thanks
 
Sure it is a dead hole? Perhaps you have a little too much advance. Have you set the timing yet? Clicking injectors would be working. Any smoke or engine shake? Starter sound like it has a dead cylinder when spinning it over? The plastic rocker buttons are always suspect. A glow plug not working would give you a miss for a bit.

A scan tool to cut cylinders is worth the money. It can also set timing.
 
I have not set timing. Its definitely a dead hole. The truck ran super smooth on all 8 for the first couple trips around the block. Then started shaking when you give it throttle. No smoke which is odd to me. My glow plug harness connectors are pretty loose where they slide over the spades on the GPs but the mis doesn't go away which makes me think that is not the problem. The clatter that I'm hearing seems like its coming from the drivers side of the engine. I'm starting to think I need to pull the valve cover to check those buttons. But you're right I need to find a good scan tool to try to narrow down which cylinder is the culprit first. Anyone have a link to a picture of under the valve cover?
 
Seems logical that could be my issue. If the button breaks the rocker could slide down the shaft and away from the push rod and valve? Also causing some clatter that could be confused with fuel knock?
 
OK I need some advice. Haven't been able to get my hands on a scan tool to kill cylinders. I took yet another listen with the stethoscope and I am confident that this clatter was coming from the left (driver) bank. So I pulled the trigger and tore it down to get the valve cover off really expecting to find a rocker arm floating around on the shaft. Nope. They are all in position with their stupid plastic buttons holding them in place. One thing I am sort of confused about is that all the rockers seem to be in the same position and I can turn all the push rods with my fingers. No lash but shouldn't some valves be open and some closed??

Anyhow I'm now thinking Valves, piston etc. Did a bolt fall into a port prior to me buying this engine and work its way into a cylinder? I want to do a compression test but can't find a tester to borrow and really don't want to shell out the $150 to buy one. The engine is at a point where it wouldn't take much more to get the head off so I don't want to put it back together without first doing a compression test.

I feel that this noise is either mechanical, or fuel knock. Could air in the supply lines cause fuel knock?

Keep these in mind
-No smoke from exhaust
-Misfire begins instantly but clatter only begins after engine warms for about 5 minutes
-The mis started a few miles after I installed the Heath PCM. The first few miles it ran great!
-I have not set timing

I know you guys cannot diag this from your couch. I'm just grasping for any insight right now because I cant get my hands on the tools I need to figure it out. What would you do and what do you think?
 
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