• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Fresh engine Crank no start

mohawkmike82

mohawkmike82

Member
Messages
86
Reaction score
1
Location
Cleveland, Ohio
- Year: _96_____
- Truck model and class (ie: c2500) ___K1500______
- Automatic or Standard _____A/T_____
- Mileage: (indicate miles or km) 240K miles
- Replaced parts and mods (IP, PMD, chip/PCM, TM, injectors etc) __Engine, I/P, glows, F-intake FTB 4" exhaust injectors _________
- Model: ‘S’ or ‘F’ engine, NA or Turbo, EGR? _OE S PCM turbo No EGR_____________
- Ambient outside temp: (indicate *C or *F) __55 F________
- What fuel are you using? (#1 Diesel, #2 Diesel, Bio, VO, WVO, etc) ___#1______
- What fuel additives are you using? __None_________
- Where are you located? ___Cleveland OH__________

General maintenance: inspect and evaluate the condition of each. When were they last changed?
- Air filter __good_______
- Fuel filter _____new____
- CDR Valve? ___Not sure______
- Coolant – last flushed/replaced at new
- Oil – synthetic/regular, changed at ___Rotella new________
- Batteries – state of charge, (matched set) replaced at ___charged cranks fast__________
- Battery cables and grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened): ___Good ___________
- Glow Plugs - how many miles on them? ___new______ What type? ____Bosch D/Ts_________
- Injectors - last changed at _____unknown__________


History: (Describe how the problem first appeared.)
- What were you doing when it happened? _new engine crank no start_____________
- How was the truck running fine before this problem appeared? ___yes burning coolant__________
- Has this problem ever happened before? __no_____________________
- Describe any related factors that might be part of the problem. ______________
- Have you checked for DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)? (Y.N) __N__ And? ________


Diagnostics:

1] Starting:
1a] Does the engine start? _______No__
1b] Does the engine crank over? ____Yes____
1c] Are your batteries fully charged? ____Yes_____
1d] Have you removed, cleaned, and tightened all battery connections? __Yes______
1e] Does your Wait to Start light come on for a time? How long? __10-15 sec_______
1f] Does your glow plug light come on? ___Yes______ For how long? _10-15 sec________
1g] Do you see smoke from the exhaust while cranking? What color? ___yes white/grey_____
1h] Does the Service Engine Light Glow during Start/bulb check? __yes______

2] Fuel Issues (if not running):
2a] Can you hear your lift pump working? __yes__________
2b] Do you get a steady flow of fuel from the water drain (T-handle) ? __trickle_______
2c] Loosen the inlet line from the IP – is fuel coming out (Lift Pump on)? _____yes______
2d] Loosen an injector line and crank the engine - does fuel come out? ___yes______
2e] Do you hear a vacuum (hiss) when you remove the fuel cap? ___yes________

3] PMD / IP Issues
3a] Location of PMD (on pump, on intake, remote mounted) ____remote_______
3b] Condition of Extension harness (if used) Vendor or Homemade? ___new not sure of vendor______
3c] Condition of grounds / ground wires to IP / PMD. Check Harness. ___good______
3d] PMD Make: ____black stanadyne_______
3e] PMD Age: ___not sure have 2 tried both__________



Primed fuel system by pulling glows and cranking after getting fuel to filter manager. Got fuel squirting out of G/P holes, installed G/Ps cranks fast, sounds like 1 cylinder is trying to hit. Question! Will this engine run at all with OE PCM after removing Vac pump? Also went to F intake and removed 3 Vac solenoids. Have a Heath PCM on the way. Thanks to you pros in advance!
 
You have checked the glow plugs by watching them get red hot? Clamp one in a vise and be sure they are good even if new. Check for voltage at the plug as who knows what wires you may have cut or pinched during repair.

Crank it a couple more 30 second tries with 2 min to cool the starter between tries at WOT to purge any remaining air. The DS4's start really quick over the DB2 in my experience.
Per Bison above:Try advancing the pump - position of pump on 'timing front cover' by a dime width to driver's side. Pump rotates with drive's side going down into the valley. Even the DS4 pumps should have a timing line on it to match up to the cover.
 
The wrench part numbers for the real deal are in my file in this thread. You can make some special wrenches as others have if you have the dual t-stat x-over. At least you can look at the part numbers to see how GM did it.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...nd-1995-6.5TDs&p=338555&viewfull=1#post338555

If you still have the single t-stat x-over you should be able to get to all nuts with just a half moon 15mm 12 point wrench. Although should be about 9" long from tip to tip.
 
Also, you will code for not having the vacuum pump, because the vacuum sensor on the firewall will not see vacuum when it wanted it. That vac sensor still needs to be plugged in though. It looks a lot like the boost sensor on the intake. The EGR codes wont hurt your performance though, just drive with them until the Heath PCM gets there.
 
Back to basics. Compression @ #1 cylinder when the mark on the harmonic balancer approaches TDC?

Cam timing. Timing chain installed correctly? Dot to dot when at #1 TDC?

Who's the engine builder?
 
Ive got a single stat. Ill have to see if I have an old 15 MM to torch.

@3500, thats what I'm kind of nervous about. I don't know who built the engine. I bought the parts truck and its fresh engine (never installed) from a business that had changed hands and the new owner didn't have any of that info. Its got a poor grey paint job, but it appears to have been done right other than that. Pulled the pan and everything is fresh there. Valve stems and ports are like new. I also know however that doesn't mean valve timing is right. I'm going out to the shop after I'm done with this pot of coffee to go back to battle with it.. Ill let you guys know what I find. Thanks for everyones help so far.
 
The file in that other thread I posted also shows where the IP should be relatively set. A picture of the IP flange in comparison to the timing mark/wedge on the timing cover. So if its not even close to that, it could be difficult to start.

Since you installed the IP did you make sure the IP's dowel pin thing went into the oblong eliptical hole in the timing gear, and not the circular one? That can be seen through the oil fill port.

Did you have to install the timing gear, and make sure the the dot on the cam gear lined up with the dot on the timing gear? Or was it already fully assembled?
 
IP was already installed as was everything else. I can pull the oil fill to check on the dowel. In the process of trying to get to the last nut on the IP to tweak timing. Can you post a link to the picture/thread? Thanks
 
OK dowel on IP is in the slotted hole in the cam gear.

IP was actually rotated a bit too far toward the drivers side when compared to old engine and pictures in the thread. Moved it back toward pass side and still no fire.

Should I try going further toward the drivers side ?

I don't want to have to pull the W/P and cover off this thing to check valve timing but its starting to look that way.

Anything I should swap from the old pump to the new to me pump? Fuel solenoid? Optic Sensor etc?
 
Long shot but how long ago freshly built engine that has been sat around for a while without being run up? May not have much compression. Oil the bores to cover that issue.

Cheers
Nobby
 
If you have the IP about right, then try unplugging the Crank Position Sensor. If youre getting fuel to the cylinders then the electronics are all working, but they could be confused if the CPS is misleading them. The CPS if it has a metal tab can be installed out of rotation. Otherwise if unplugging the CPS does not help, plug it back in and unplug the OS and give it a shot.

The electronics can actually cause the injection timing to be wrong if one of them is not working correctly. The file with my recommended mnx/mods has information imbedded on IP issues and testing glows, and at the end is a no-start reference, although to be honest it centers around not getting fuel to the injectors in something that was running.

Even without glows the engine should start if its warm out. Although it would be difficult. If there is fuel then all you need is heat, so compression, or glows, or block heater you could try. Or a hair dryer into the intake. Last resort would be some starting fluid in the intake after disabling glows.
 
Its been about 6-8 months since it was put together.
Tried that. No dice.

Ive got to throw in the towel for the day. Got family stuff to do.

One thing I have not eliminated is valve timing. I cannot find the timing mark on the cover to compare to the mark on the balancer.
 
Set the pump with te ESO straight up,that will get it within start parameter.If you got fuel at the injectors its got to fire,bleed as many as you can get to,all at the same time.
Make sure the glows work.
If it still doesn't,its time to check the timing
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top