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Ford/ New Holland 6.6L

A trailer on offroad tires :eek: Now I've seen everything. Thats just awesome. Careful you don't let anybody on Pirate see that setup, next thing you know someone is going to have some hydraulically driven 4x4 trailer so they can disapear into the woods AND stay there for a while!

Not that I've ever pondered this idea or anything:ihih:
 
The 7.8 is only coming with the P-pump on a 93. You could also catch a P on a 6.6 if you're REALLY lucky.

Welcome to the Truck Stop Clydesdale! How about dropping into the introductions section of the forum and introducing yourself and sharing some pictures of your rig? Its always nice to see another off road truck. And is that a trailer behind you?


Dale, could you tke the p-pump off the 7.8 that came with it, or 6.6 and graft it to a pre-93?

BBC, intro thread is titled "Me"
 
Dale, could you tke the p-pump off the 7.8 that came with it, or 6.6 and graft it to a pre-93?

BBC, intro thread is titled "Me"

Yes indeed, You just need the case adapter, drive gear, and get the injectors readjusted to the higher pop-off pressure. Pump can be swapped over between either engine also.
 
hey what a good turbo to put on one of these 6.6 s thats a bit bigger and better then the garrett it comes with . without going to a vv or vg
 
I've actually really started pondering the thought of pulling out the 350sbc in my C-60 and dropping the 6.6 into that. That truck would take the roughly 1500 lbs of weight a bit better than Big Blue. That and no more 6mpg and worse for plowing... Thats just depressing right there.

I've been tossing the thought around. I figure after Big Blue is all finished up I can consider doing the swap. Start getting some measurements and plans. Maybe find a 2 speed rear or lower gears and run a higher gear trans like a Fuller 6 speed. Maybe an old Fabco drop transfer case for an eventual 4x4 conversion... Could probably get the axles from a 4x4 F700 too...
 
Thats a great looking 6.6! Any idea behind when you are planning to drop the motor in? I can't wait to get mine all prettied up and start to do some tuning. Thats still the stock garret turbo isn't it? I'm thinking of running the HE351VGT I have in the shop to give it maximum air through the whole RPM range. Maybe even compounds depending on how beefy the bottom ends are on these engines. The block is plenty strong enough so that I have no concern of. A good set of ARP headstuds should keep the head clamped down plenty. I take it 19 degree's seems to be the sweet spot for these engines?
 
Thanks Jamie, sirrr!
Yep, it's still the little T04. Unless I get something better for free, I'm gonna run this one. Ideally, I would run an HX40/16 over an HT3B/23 for quick spoolup & great over all power. These are evry bit as durable as a 6BT, and adding ARP head studs, main studs, & rod bolts will hold it that much better. I went with 19, because it's a target number in the trucks for great power with economy, and most importantly... more clatter. Makes it sound like a MAN's engine(insert Tim Allen's grunts).
 
Well its not like these motors turn high RPM's so I guess from the factory its similar to the stock 6.5L turbo's. It seems to do its job in the peak torque range but higher up and it begins to choke the engine. I've been designing a mechanical vane controller for the turbo that works off boost. But the issue I keep running into (some other people as well it seems) is preventing the vanes from slamming shut after fuel is cut and boost drops fast. I'm debating waiting on Fleece performance to finish unavailing there standalone electronic VGT controller... but the whole idea behind all this is to run an engine and trans completely independent of electronics.

I can't wait to start playing around with the motor. I'm still up in the air over keeping the AT545 or going with something bigger. If I remember right, Suncoast can build up the AT545 to handle even more than the dodge 47rh behind the cummins...
 
I see how that could add to some broken turbo shafts, by a quick deceleration. What about a vac/pressure delay? Where it gradually lets the pressure off. Just an idear.
If you dont want to use a 545, I'll trade you bellhousings. That way you can use the RTO610, or other big manual trans for an SAE#2.
 
I've been doing some research for that. Something that will gradually lower the pressure instead of dumping it. I was almost thinking of a miniature shock absorber of some kind, though a pressure delay valve sounds like a good idea. I'm not heavily rushed with it right now so I have time.

I would be more than happy to trade bellhousings with you. If you haven't already started gathering parts maybe we can swap Flexplate / Flywheel and starters.

I'll be in town again the 2nd week in march if your interested.

:hihi::hihi::hihi::agreed::agreed::agreed::agreed::hihi::hihi::hihi:
img_101099_1b5fbc9e8543665a349617e94307a73a.jpg
 
But I just painted the starter! I haven't gathered any parts, just paint. I got the #2 SAE with mounting ears, clitch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and flywheel. Are you sure we have to trade starters? You know what shipping is gonna be on that stuff? ouch!
If I could have got an F350, I would keep it, and run a nice manual.
 
Wow you have everything right there lol. I'm not quite sure if the starters are interchangeable between auto and manual bellhousings. One of us can take some measurements from the starter mounting holes and whatnot and compare the two together to see if they are an exact match. I'm not sure on what trans I plan on running yet, though a 10 speed would be nice for sure. The gears are split so well too... hmmmm I'm going to have to consider your offer. I wouldn't ask you to pay for shipping for the clutch parts, I would pay for it myself, but finding another 6.6L in a manual around here is a needle in a haystack kind of effect. And trying to find/purchase all the parts brand new from there associated dealers would be a challenge and very expensive at that.

Hmmmmm. Shoot me a price for what you are looking for for everything minus the starter for me to ponder over. Currently, my engine has the AT545 bolted up so if you need the Torque converter as well let me know.
 
Go check your starter. It should be a standard one for a MD truck. It better say MT37 on the tag!
The clutch parts may not be relevant to your trans choice, so it may be a waste to send. The original trans was an FS4205 or 4305, I cant remember which one. The RT610 would probably have a different disc. The pressure plate is likely the same for both. The disc is 14". Since we both have what each other wants, I was just gonna exchange. The place where I got my 6.6 has about 4 more with manual trans setups. One of em is a p-pump too. Some slight benefits to the CA smog laws. It makes all these dirty burning engines cheap to buy. The cheapest ones do have a hole cut into the block, though.
 
MT37 sounds right but I want to double check first on the starter. I'll let you know in about 3 weeks if thats correct or not. Your lucky to have those trucks over there for you, like I said there is nothing over here. Most people hear Ford 6.6 and think of the old Ford 400 V8. You mention its an inline 6 diesel and they look at you like you have 2 heads.

Assuming the starter is the same on both units, We trade bell housings and flywheels/flexplates? Sound good?
 
Werx for me. I'm not in a big hurry. I just need a bunch of overtime to pay for it all. I'd really like to get the AT1545 I saw in MD too, so I can at least get a lockup converter. Trouble being, shipping it would probably cost me more than the $500 to buy it.
It's pretty much the same here when mentioning it, or even showing people pictures of it. It's like you say, double headed. I've been telling guys "it's an engine from a 92 F600, a 6.6 litre, 6 banger". That part helps a lot. Neighbors that come up to the garage tell me it's 'a big son-of-a-bit** to be putting in that little truck!' I just say, "that's the idea".
 
That's the one I have. Almost debating the idea of an MT643 instead of the AT545. I keep hearing predictions of shredding shafts.
 
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