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Ford/ New Holland 6.6L

BigBlueChevy

BigBlueChevy

Compression Ignition Addict
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Out at my favorite junkyard last weekend they had just brought in an older model Ford B700 School bus with a diesel in it. Further inspection confirmed it to be the slow, but extremly durable and long lasting Brazillian 6.6L with an Allison 545 Trans.

I couldn't pass up a deal and engine of this caliber so after a few hours of Torching I brought the nose of a chruch bus home with me the next day. Call it love at first site if you will. Guess its a diesel thing:rolleyes5: Best of all: only 112,000 miles, no leaks, no rust, and the engine fired right up with no assist from glow plugs or a grid heater after sitting for a few days. Its even got ether spray start):h

A few pictures to show off. I'll have a video or two this weekend(I hope) of firing it up now that its at the shop and not in a bus.

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Oh wow! What are you plans for this? I would have bought the entire thing and made a big ol pickup :D
 
DEERE3594 said:
Oh wow! What are you plans for this? I would have bought the entire thing and made a big ol pickup :D
Click to expand...


Not 100% sure yet really. You really can't find many of these motors around anymore as they have become so rare. And the fact that its got such minimal mileage makes it that much better. Then you factor in everything that motors got I just had to jump on it. I kinda wish I had bought the whole thing, but I didn't want to hurt the bank too much so I struck a deal with the owner for the nose.

Though I would admit, it would be killer if I dropped it into a pickup truck.:eek: Hell, better yet, my truck):h Could you imagine pulling up next to a pickup truck and the damn thing sounding like a Detroit? Deere I think your gievn me idea's):h
 
There ya go! put that in your truck then put a topkick hood on it! saweet :D
 
Veg_Out said:
Occasionally I think I'm a freak, then I see you cats and realize that I am one of many.
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Its how we make such a good family around here:grouphug:. After all, how many people do you know that would pull an engine from a school bus, then agree with another that it would be a cool idea to drop said engine into a pickup truck?

I'm gonna attempt tomorrow to pull the engine from the bus frame tomorrow if not Sunday. Plus I can make use of the U-bolts on my axle swap. how convenient is that?
 
Dad's 05 LLY said:
Never supposed to re-use U-bolts... :nono:
Click to expand...

I actually found that out not to long ago. I ended up finding some at autozone and jumping on those. It seems like the square U-bolts are very rare around here. There all round. Stupid things.


Ya'll are gonna have to wait till after the axle swap is done. I didn't have any time to work on the New Holland Engine since I got it.:sad:
 
quadzilla499 said:
got one
Click to expand...

Got one what? Did I miss something?


Got the Ford/ New Holland 6.6 and 7.8 Service Manual for Christmas:D This engine has...a lot of potential :D And I'll leave it at that):h

-The engine I got is the 6.6L HT turbocharged without after-cooling.
-"A-2000" Type injection pump(almost same as "P" pump associated with the dodge guys. Yes its a Bosch:thumbsup:
-has a max high idle speed of 2650:eek:
-4.4 x 4.4 Bore and stroke):h
-6 Headbolts per cylinder
-exhaust valve rotators
-12Valves:mad2:
-Tube oil cooler with dual full flow filters
-IP is lubricated by engine oil just like the P-7100
-16.7:1 compression ratio
-Garret T40E Turbocharger
-Injectors are also Bosch and are designed to open at around 3200psi

Essentially-there are a lot of these::thumbsup: and only one of these::mad2:

Like I said the engine has A LOT of potential. I'm curious to compare parts from a Cummins to the parts in the 6.6 and see comparisons.

Only difference between the 6.6 and the 7.8 is Horsepower, timing, jacket water aftercooling:)eek:), the stroke being 5.2":eek: and a Model P-3000 IP
 
Well its been a while since I've updated this but today brought a lot of interesting information. I played with the New Holland today a little since the axle swap is mostly done, just waiting on parts.

Thanks to Extremesounds13, he got me the dimensions of everybody's favorite Chevy diesel swap, the Cummins diesel. Specs are as follows:
Length 40.02 in.
Width 32.44 in.
Height 35.52 in.
weight is just north of 1100lbs dry.

Originally, I was going to drop using the New Holland as a potential swap motor due to length and weight. And the fact of just it being diving into the sheer unknown. But after diagnosing the International and realizing it won't need a donor motor :rolleyes:...yet..., I've decided I'm going to do it.

My goal is simple. Take the 6.6L New Holland Diesel, tear it down, and build it back up, then transplant it, along with a manual transmission and drop the whole assembly into my 98 Chevy.

There are alot of "idea's" up in the air as to how I'm going to actually do it, with the best ones being written on paper as we speak. I'm seriously looking forward to this. Its going to be a hell of an undertaking, but the results will defiantly be great. I cleared my schedule for tomorrow so I can work on the motor and hopefully fire it up.
 
Its a lot easier to work on an engine while its out of the engine bay :D Most likely, I'll leave the pistons, connecting rods and crank alone, but I'm already planning on speaking with ARP for there high tensile strength bolts on the bottom and top.

At 100,000 miles those will be fine. Hell the whole engine is still barely broken in. But It will also give me chance to check out internals and give me a perspective of just what this thing might be capable of.
 
http://www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp/

Updated 12/28/08

Talking about the International DT series truck & tractor engines, 360, 408, 466, & 530(and a few in between), Ford/New Holland 6.6 & 7.8, and Mack E7. Roughly covering years from 1984-1997. Caution note, the electronic 466E/530E started in late 95. You can find some good injectors here: http://dieselperformancesolutions.com/Tractor_PullingFuel.htm

They offer from a smidge above stock up to mega flowing tractor pull injectors. DT engines' torque specs are on the second page "Additional pix".


There's 2 different types of pumps that I've done. The mid 80's to 92(MW pump) and the 93 to 97(P-pump). For more hp than this Scheids and Hypermax are gurus on the 466's. 1000hp for about $10k is what I hear about for the 466. Plus, you can get a ton of power with just pump mods, Hypermax told me you can get 600hp before you even need to swap out injectors. Your wallet will be your guide there!



You can adjust the rotary pump(older than 84). Under the big square cover is a plate. It's a fuel screw that's either on that plate or under it, I'm not totally sure. Still working on the rpm adjustment too. If you have done this, please post a picture on Diesel Garage forums!



The easy ones are the 93-97 P-pump, they are just like the 12V dodge from 94-98. And use the instructions http://www.tstproducts.com/INSRUCT98.pdf to get down in there and slide the fuel plate forward and/or grind it flat. Dont run with no plate like the "Dodge boys" do, these pumps dont like it & will run real crappy(it'll get too much timing advance). The AFC adjustment is with a 5/16" allen wrench from the top, then you'll see a "star wheel" inside. Spin the wheel to loosen the spring(it'll slowly go forward), if you go totally forward it'll have a ton of smoke when you mash the go pedal. Then the last adjustment is the stop screw. It stops the accelerator lever on the pump just like the one for the idle adjustment. While the engine is off you can see it hit when you cycle the lever to max. Just loosen the jamb nut and run the bolt into the pump for more travel. Then you can do the timing:

http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7296
As for the governor springs, these are instructions for the 12V dodge, but it's still going to be about the same, just easier to get access.
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15634

You can also use a 3000 rpm gov spring kit from a 12 valve Dodge/Cummins, they are usually under $150, keep in mind the valves start to float around 3400rpm. Another option is to just tighten the original springs 3 or 4 clicks. After you read the article linked above, the "clicks" will make more sense. Just make sure you tighten both sets of springs. Each click will be roughly 100 more rpm you can use before the pump starts to de-fuel(most stock trucks will only hit 2700 on a good day).

Now for the older type inline pumps('84-ish to '92):

updated 5/31/09


To the rear of the pump on the top is 2 different allen plugs. The bigger one is the fuel rate, and the smaller is the star wheel, or pre-boost smoke adjustment.To do the fuel you take off the plug with either a 3/8" or 10 mm allen wrench. Now tie up the fuel shutoff sol. or pull cable in the run position and you will see the adjustment screw. You may need to put a brick or such on the accelerator to keep the screw in the right spot under the hole. Break the jamb nut loose with a 3/8" or 10 mm deep socket. A good trick is to use a skinny screwdriver that fits inside the deep socket you just used on the jamb nut. As you hold the nut with the socket, back out the screw(CCW) about 10 turns, then snug down the nut. Now pull out the socket & screwdriver to make sure you didnt go too far. Run the accelerator lever to make sure the screw doesnt come in contact with the pump. If you go too many turns, you'll see what I'm talking about. Then if it's ok, a good snug on the jamb nut and it's done. You can also remove the fuel screw all together, but it can get REALLY hot!!! The DT360's pump is small, so it usually doesn't get that hot. A magnetic screwdriver is handy for the screw removal. Note #1: if you get the screw too high, it'll hit the top of the pump and make the rpm stick. Note #2: If you drop the screw inside the pump you can retrieve it easily with a pencil type magnet, and it's not that easy to get out. Untie the shutdown sol. and remove the accelerator weight tool. Under the smaller allen plug is the star wheel. Take the plug off with either a 5/16" or 8mm allen wrench. Spin the star wheel towards the front of the pump(rotate towards the pass side) to increase low end power(smoke)and away for less low end smoke(essentially releasing the tension on the spring inside). There's also another screw(with 3mm allen) & 13mm jamb nut at the rear-most end of the pump covered by 2 screws. Clockwise adds more lower end smoke, and CCW reduces smoke. You will likely need to adjust this screw if you remove the fuel screw. It is the pre-load to the aneroid(AFC). The governor spring mods, and accelerator stop screw are the same as the newer 466's described above, except you cant use a Dodge/Cummins P-pump set of governor springs. I'm working on getting a shim to work on these MW pumps. The timing advance is covered in the same article as mentioned above or here it is again: http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7296

A quick video of the timing here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRzQkiOP9rI

Here's tightening the gov springs 4 clicks:

http://www.youtube.com/user/nevrenufhp#p/a/u/1/HlWbNdLOE_A

Here's adjusting the fuel screw:

http://www.youtube.com/user/nevrenufhp#p/a/u/2/C2pJZbYuVHs



Sound like you got yourself a barn burnner there..
 
Thanks Dragogt. I've actually got his low buck diesel site page linked on my laptop at home. Lots of information there to use. One of these days I need to get in contact with him and share my project. He's set on dropping the New Holland 6.6 in a 1979 F-100(I think that was it) I don't know many more specifics but I may have some competition lol. Not sure on his transmission choice either. I'm going to stick with a manual unless I can find a way to adapt something like the dodge 47rh to the back of the New Holland to handle the power. If I could do that the power limiter would be the motor itself.

Theres rumor that Advance adapters makes a... step-down adapter?... to mix and match SAE bell housings. I may be able to go from the SAE #2 on the New Holland to an SAE#3 used by the light duty pickups.

I already have plans for water Mist injection as well as building an oil presurization system for the engine to build oil pressure before the engine even starts spinning. That will help improve the motors life. Twin turbos' will be in order. Most likely something similar to the dodge guys with an external wastegate vented to a second exhaust pipe somewhere along the line.(similar to double overtime for those who know what I'm talking about) I'll need to make a new intake manifold as well. The current one stretches over the valve cover like the old non IC'ed Cummins motors. Not a big deal, I'll just have to reroute the piping.

The last thing to be done before I finish the motor and drop it in will be to make my own valve cover. The current one has "FORD" in big letters on it. And I can't have that at all :eek:
 
BigBlueChevy said:
Thanks Dragogt. I've actually got his low buck diesel site page linked on my laptop at home. Lots of information there to use. One of these days I need to get in contact with him and share my project. He's set on dropping the New Holland 6.6 in a 1979 F-100(I think that was it) I don't know many more specifics but I may have some competition lol. Not sure on his transmission choice either. I'm going to stick with a manual unless I can find a way to adapt something like the dodge 47rh to the back of the New Holland to handle the power. If I could do that the power limiter would be the motor itself.

No prob, I figured you might have it; But I figured it was worth posting anyway..

Theres rumor that Advance adapters makes a... step-down adapter?... to mix and match SAE bell housings. I may be able to go from the SAE #2 on the New Holland to an SAE#3 used by the light duty pickups.

I ran quick such but i didn't find anything.. Not saying that theres not , just that it didn't POP up.

I already have plans for water Mist injection as well as building an oil presurization system for the engine to build oil pressure before the engine even starts spinning. That will help improve the motors life. Twin turbos' will be in order. Most likely something similar to the dodge guys with an external wastegate vented to a second exhaust pipe somewhere along the line.(similar to double overtime for those who know what I'm talking about) I'll need to make a new intake manifold as well. The current one stretches over the valve cover like the old non IC'ed Cummins motors. Not a big deal, I'll just have to reroute the piping.

Sounds like you gots a plan there.

The last thing to be done before I finish the motor and drop it in will be to make my own valve cover. The current one has "FORD" in big letters on it. And I can't have that at all :eek:
Click to expand...


Dang man, me thinks it pretty sweet if ya left it on there..

BTW, Names in the sig.........
 
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