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Fluidampr....

TurboTahoe said:
There were some crank manufacturers who said they would not honor the warrantee on their cranks if the Fluidampr was installed, but when I PMed a Fluidampr engineer, they said that the crank manufacturer had heard hearsay that the Fluidampr was causal in crank failure, but when Fluidampr contacted them to have that hypothesis tested, the crank manufacturer refused to test it, and so it remains as a 'Hearsay black mark' on Fluidampr reputation.

:)
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It was either TD or GMCTD that had posted it was Scat that would not warranty thier crank if Fliudampr was used and IIRC it was bad blood between them from gasser related issues. No proven fatcs that there is anything issues with using a fliudampr.
 
chevyinlinesix said:
Right off the Fluidampr website;
8" 6.2/6.5 with electronic injector pump part #800141
8" 6.2 with mechanical injector pump part #800191
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The only difference between the two, is the mechanical IP one comes with a spacer for the lack of a reluctor ring found on the electronic trucks. If you ever think you'll get a mechanical engine later on, get the 800191 and save the spacer for later.

Side note, if you have a mechanical IP you can run the 6.2 Peat Jackson Gear Drive, its alot cheaper than the phazer.
 
I have several of the Fluidampers. I'm still not positive they are worth the investment. I've never just installed a Fluidamper by itself. It's always been in conjunction with timing chain and gears and even injectors.
I always noticed a considerable improvement but I can't say for sure how much could be attributed to the Fluidamper
 
I had to install a Stocker, as I thought I needed immediate repair.

I will have to say I've been happy with the stocker It smoothed things out.

It did make me think though... Don't lose an engine becuase you waited so long to save for a Fluidampr that your current dampener failed.

Get a new dampener on there ASAP if you are in need of one. If you can't afford the Fluidampr NOW then slap a OEM one on and plan the fluidampr upgrade later.
 
Fysh Guide said:
I just installed mine last week, OK, maybe 2 weeks ago. The only thing I can add to Packratts concise instructions is that when you go to start the new unit on, tap it on with a rubber hammer at the most. Don't use any sharp impact or force. At this point spin the puller (minus the smaller outside bolts) on the Jesus washer to press the fluidampr onto the spindle or mount or whatever it is called. The Jesus bolt (??, who came up with this term? I thought He was a carpenter, not a mechanic....) isn't quite long enough to press it initially but once the dampr is on a ways the bolt will reach. Don't forget the Jesus washer!
I was able to remove all the bolts and re-install them without removing the tranny inspection cover by using an impact on the Jesus nut and/or holding the counterweight/fluidampr with one hand and torquing with the other. This may not work for everyone. Blocking the tranny would be easier for torque settings and/or working without an impact gun.
It really is a handsomely made product. Nice workmanship, I don't know if the machined timing marks on the outside edge are functional but they look cool. As for what it's supposed to do, the long term will have to wait but the engine sure sounds better. Kinda like having a nice stereo loudly tuned into some tinny AM station and then taking off all that annoying treble and mid-range noise. All you have left is rumbling lows.
Yes I know:nopics:but I did it after work, 13 hours of plowing in a blizzard. I didn't have a camera. Sorry guys!
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Having done this a couple times while messing with timing gears during my rotatable CPS episode, I found the best way to lock up the engine for removing and torquing the Jesus nut is to use a plain old demo/pry bar with a bolt through it and the dampener. Stand it against the frame cross member on the side you want the nut to turn and through bolt it to the dampener. Then torque away. I tried all other methods, cept for messing with the torque converter, and this is by far the easiest and the most effective way of getting the Jesus nut on or off.

I was fortunate to have flown home from Chicago and missed this storm where lightning struck Touchdown Jesus:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGTBFPte-MY

http://www.nationalturk.com/en/touchdown-jesus-statue-burns-after-lightning-struck-in-ohio-25462334

Should be noted that this was not the real Touchdown Jesus, but a copy. The real Touchdown Jesus resides on the Notre Dame campus in South Bend.

http://www.nesn.com/2010/06/notre-d...hios-touchdown-jesus-burns-to-the-ground.html
 
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My main concern with any replacement part as I have mentioned in other post of mine is the reliability of the replacement part. My motor is just about to turn 210K miles so it would be nice just for piece of mind to change this item out, I just don't want to change it for something that is only going to last 20K.

Matt what one did you install and how did the quality look?

Those of you that have handled this fluidampr is it worth the extra coin?

Can I buy a real AC Delco dampener or is that even possible now a days?
 
I installed Advanced Auto, Chinese made.

It seemed to slide on surprisingly easy... Wasn't too much of a press going on. Almost too easy. Not sure if it was specs or worn snout??

No problems so far, about 1 1/2 months, a few thousand miles later...
 
For the '95 I put on whatever RockAuto sells. It was Chinese. Probably 7K miles so far and no problems. Ah so!
 
Many years ago I was at the circle track trade show in Daytona and spoke with the Crower rep about this very thing.
Fluidamper rep was at the next table also.
Now I asked the Crower rep what damper they recommend and his answer was "none of them".
To clarify he said that all have thier own weakness since they are usually only able to control harmonics in a narrow range.
His comments about the fluidamper were this"If they(Fluidamper) are so great then why did we have to put big block snouts on all of the Winston Cup small block cranks to keeep them from breaking snouts".
The fluidampers greater mass was a problem for the high rpm engines as well as the fact that the silicone fluid changes viscosity with heat/age. might be fine for a low rpm diesel since that is what they were developed for initialy.
The Crower rep went on to say that if you were going to use any ones damper-use an ATI.

For comments on the gear drive-noise is often the biggest complaint but with a diesel that's not much of a factor,the real problem is that they transfer harmonics to both the crank and the cam and anything else in the series of gears-like the pump.A chain is better at isolating the harmonics and a cog/gilmer belt drive is the best.
 
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